Fork extension and upgrade info needed ...

[flyer91]

I don't like the way my Hannigan trike sits ....with the front end so low.
I have a 4.5º rake, and am looking for suggestions on how to extend the front forks so the trike sits level, and possibly doing spring/valve upgrades at the same time ...... if that's advisable. (??)

Anyone know of what parts are needed, source/part numbers, and the ball-park cost I should expect to have it all done?

TIA

[Smoken'JOE]

Scroll down to bottom of page and look for Zooks add. Probably get everything you need there

[Papa Zook]

PM me and I can send you the fork extensions and tell you how to add them if you dont already know how, or what you can expect to pay to have it done.

[flyer91]

PM sent!

Thanks guys ......... I hate riding my trike with the same posture as when riding a crotch rocket!!

[Papa Zook]

The design nature of the trailing arm suspension trikes like the Hannigans and Roadsmiths, means they will sit higher in the back in a resting, unloaded position than will the solid axle and A-arm independent suspension trikes, so attaining a level attitude isn't going to happen even with fork extensions, however extensions will level it some. The typical extensions available run from 1 1/4 inch to 2 inches. Are there currently any extensions on your forks?

[flyer91]

I just went out and gave it a close look, and I can see two ring marks on each of the upper forks that are the same distance apart as the thickness of the lower clamps, looking (by their placement on the sliders) that the lower triple clamp 'was' at one time clamping lower on the sliders by about 1 1/2".
So I assume they do have 1.25" extensions.

My overall ground clearance is about 3 1/2" at the forward lowest point, and my ~250lbs compresses/reduces that clearance by about 1/2" at the front.

The rear coil-over preload is set at the mid points on both sides.

I see what you mean about the Hannigans ........ pictures of GL1800/Hannigans do show the front end low, but they 'appear' to be not quite as much as mine, and I've seen some that look almost even, as well as much higher with a rider on the trike .... hence my questions.

The trike handles great. No real drift on a flat road, and a drift to the right on crowned roads that's basically proportional to the degree of the crown, so I may very well be looking to fix something that isn't broken.

Your expert opinion is much appreciated.

[Papa Zook]

Yeah, I don't think I'd go to the trouble of changing the fork extensions just to pick up another 1/2 inch of clearance in the front. The trailing arm suspensions do sit higher in the rear, but its that very design that makes for such a nice, smooth ride.

[flyer91]

Cool!
You're saving me some coin and putting my concerns to rest at the same time.

Thanks Bazooka ........

[Gold Rush]

Is it possible the fork springs are getting a bit tired and allowing the front to sag more then usual? As the springs age they do loose some of their strength.

My '06 GL1800 had 73K on it when I converted and the front really sagged. Put the 4.5 degree rake kit on and swapped out the fork springs with progressive at the same time. Now the Wing sets level.. I also totally rebuilt the internal workings of both forks so it was a messy job but worth every bit of the cost and work.

Good luck getting things leveled out.

[rodeo1]

wow ! i was a little unhappy because my valkyrie/roadsmith rode low in the rear. it was visibly higher in the front (6 degree rake with extenders from roadsmith ) i leveled it out by increasing my tire pressure from 20 to 30, so now it is almost level with zero felt difference in ride quality. my biggest complaint is the harsh ride in the forks since the rake kit was installed (a bump knocks my coffee cup out of the holder) also makes my record player skip, and microwave hum (oh no, sorry, thats the goldwing)

[Smoken'JOE]

wow ! i was a little unhappy because my valkyrie/roadsmith rode low in the rear. it was visibly higher in the front (6 degree rake with extenders from roadsmith ) i leveled it out by increasing my tire pressure from 20 to 30, so now it is almost level with zero felt difference in ride quality. my biggest complaint is the harsh ride in the forks since the rake kit was installed (a bump knocks my coffee cup out of the holder) also makes my record player skip, and microwave hum (oh no, sorry, thats the goldwing)

Aren't your shocks adjustable for the rears? I have VTX roadsmith and they are adjustable.

[flyer91]

Is it possible the fork springs are getting a bit tired and allowing the front to sag more then usual? As the springs age they do loose some of their strength.

My '06 GL1800 had 73K on it when I converted and the front really sagged. Put the 4.5 degree rake kit on and swapped out the fork springs with progressive at the same time. Now the Wing sets level.. I also totally rebuilt the internal workings of both forks so it was a messy job but worth every bit of the cost and work.

Good luck getting things leveled out.

Hi Jerry,
you might be right.

The stock GL1800 is spec'd as having a ground clearance of 4.9".
Since it's been determined I already have 1.5" extensions with a 4.5º rake, and my clearance is still only 3.5", your suggestion might be in line with what's needed.

My trike only has a total 30K on it, and I have to replace the front tire again soon, so I might as well do the springs and valves at that time.
I've read the stock springs are sort of weak. (??)

After Bazooka's comments I don't expect it to be level, but I might gain some more clearance.

Thanks for the suggestion!

[Gold Rush]

I expect it will pick the front up some. I wish I had taken measurements so I could give you a better guess. Based on how much fork slider was exposed before and after the progressive springs I'd say maybe an inch of lift. I do have to warn you that the down side will be a bit harsher feel. For me that's not a big deal because I tend to ride pretty good roads but for others that would be a game changer..

Hope you get the ride you are looking for.

[flyer91]

If I can get ~ an inch more ground clearance from the springs I'll be happy.
I'm sure the stockers are sagging.
From what I am reading, although they may be a bit harsher on stutter bumps, they are much better than the possibility of bottoming out on larger bumps.

I also need to do some reading on the ATD valve to determine if I should leave it stock, modify it for less extreme operation, or disable it altogether.
There are a lot of differing views on that subject.
Good thing is ...... none of the two mods (to reduce it, or disable it) are permanent, nor do they sound like something that is too difficult to go back from if I don't like it (just remove the front fender and then a couple of bolts/screws).

Thanks again for the suggestion.

[lectric]

Goldwings in general have too much sag in the front suspension. Personally I like linear wound springs. The stocks are progressivly wound and the first part of the windings is pretty much used up with the sag.

Talk to a few spring suppliers see what spring rate they suggest. Most common ones seem to be, Progressive, Traxxion, Race Tech.

I use linear wound springs, 1.0 rate ( 1.1 and 1.2 are common for trikes), Mobil 1 syn atf for fluid. Then I cut and adjust spacers to get the desired amount of sag. This sets the preload on the springs and will get you a set up more tailored for you and your total weight requirements. It's cheap, spacers can be made easily from pipe material. I have even heard of spacers being made from schedule 80 pvc. Just go slow on preloading it, not more than 3/4" longer at a time. You can cut some pvc pieces @ 1/2", 3/4" and 1", add them to the current spacers and let the bike down and check for the sag. Once you have the amount you want to add, remove the old spacer, cut one to the new total length, reinstall and test it out. An easy inexpensive step in tailoring the front suspension to your requirements.

As for the adv. I preferred to keep it but I did space it up a bit to reduce the preload. That one is up to you to decide.

[jim peacock]

I did not see what year your bike was are how many miles are on it.
Before I would put progressive springs or traxion springs in I would do this,drain all the old fork oil out remove the springs that are in there and replace with new stock springs and a little heaver then stock fork oil.

The reason I say this is when my bike was a two wheeler I had progressive springs put in and was very well satisfied,after haveing it trike and going with a 4.5 rake kit it was just to harsh,even took out the 15wt.oil and put in atf.,still to harsh,replaced the progressive springs with new stock springs and new fork oil,JUST RIGHT.

P.S. my bike is a 96 1500se with a 06 lehman kit.

[Papa Zook]

I did not see what year your bike was are how many miles are on it.
Before I would put progressive springs or traxion springs in I would do this,drain all the old fork oil out remove the springs that are in there and replace with new stock springs and a little heaver then stock fork oil.

The reason I say this is when my bike was a two wheeler I had progressive springs put in and was very well satisfied,after haveing it trike and going with a 4.5 rake kit it was just to harsh,even took out the 15wt.oil and put in atf.,still to harsh,replaced the progressive springs with new stock springs and new fork oil,JUST RIGHT.

P.S. my bike is a 96 1500se with a 06 lehman kit.

I have to agree with you Jim. The Progressive & Traxxion springs are way too harsh for my tastes.

[Cycleguy]

I have to agree with you Jim. The Progressive & Traxxion springs are way too harsh for my tastes.

Interesting.

The stock Honda spring is a dual rate, something like 0.7/1.X?. The problem is the soft initial rate causes (to me) excessive sag, about 3 inches, so even a small bump puts you on the higher rate. The transition on a dual rate spring is very rapid, and that can come across as harsh. The lack of bump travel makes bottoming out a real possibility. The Progressive brand spring is also a dual rate, and has the same issue, though it doesn't sag quite as much.

So many folks, including me, like a straight rate 1.0 or 1.1 instead. Less sag, more travel, effectively a softer rate than stock for any but the smallest bumps. I feel my 1.0 Racetech is actually smoother then stock, particularly with modified damping from Racetech or Traxxion.

In any event, switching to a linear rate spring and reducing sag will essentially cure the OPs problem. A 1.0 or 1.1 spring, and preload spacers giving about 1-1/2 inch sag, a more conventional amount, will raise the front about an inch.