Stearing Head Bearings

[pastor bill]

I have just joined this forum and have a question. I ride a 2005 Gold Wing Roadsmith trike. I had it converted one year ago. I did not have the rake kit put on when they did the conversion. Although the steering was different for me, I eventually got accustomed to it and really didn't mind not having it raked. When it was time to replace the front tire, I had them install a new Mischlen Pilot Activ rear tire, which I understand is frequently done. At that time I noticed a very slight wobble in the front tire while going very slowly. I talked with the shop about this and I was told that it was normal for the hard compound tire. Well, one year later, I have a wobble (with my hands off the handlebars, which I do only for a second or two to check the stability)in the handle bars at speeds between 30 and 45 m.p.h. after which is steadys out.

My question is, do I need new steering head bearings, and if so, should I change the front tire, as it has become slightly cupped, or can I just reverse the tire after the bearings have been installed. Thanks for your suggestions, Pastor Bill

[Papa Zook]

I have just joined this forum and have a question. I ride a 2005 Gold Wing Roadsmith trike. I had it converted one year ago. I did not have the rake kit put on when they did the conversion. Although the steering was different for me, I eventually got accustomed to it and really didn't mind not having it raked. When it was time to replace the front tire, I had them install a new Mischlen Pilot Activ rear tire, which I understand is frequently done. At that time I noticed a very slight wobble in the front tire while going very slowly. I talked with the shop about this and I was told that it was normal for the hard compound tire. Well, one year later, I have a wobble (with my hands off the handlebars, which I do only for a second or two to check the stability)in the handle bars at speeds between 30 and 45 m.p.h. after which is steadys out.

My question is, do I need new steering head bearings, and if so, should I change the front tire, as it has become slightly cupped, or can I just reverse the tire after the bearings have been installed. Thanks for your suggestions, Pastor Bill

Bill,

Welcome to the forum. When you change front tires, the compound does have an effect but the size and design of the tire changes the dynamics of the steering at least as much. Some head shake is a common but not very desirable characteristic of trike conversion. Adding a 4.5 degree raked triple tree set like Champion's EZ-Steer will cure your problem and make you wish you'd done it when you converted your bike. Just ask anyone who has done it and you`ll get a 100% positive response. The cupped tire may or may not continue to negatively affect the way your trike handles after the rake.

BTW you may first want to have a competent bike shop re-torque your steering head and see if that helps if you aren't sold on the rake kit ...AND make sure your rear tire pressures are set at you kit manufacturers suggested air pressure which is normally around the mid 20LB range, not the 35LBS recommended on the automotive tire itself. These two can have a major affect on the handling characteristics of your trike.

[Ozarkryder]

I had the same kind of low speed wobble on Her Purpleness, a GW1500 Motor Trike conversion. I had a 4 1/2° rake kit installed and the wobble went away. I too found it a bit worse the harder compound the tire. I believe front motorcycle tires on a trike tend to cup a bit worse than on a bike because the turning loads are vastly different. Motorcycle tires were designed to turn leaning over, an we force them to turn while straight up. Make sure you keep the air at max preassure listed on the side of the tire, it's usually about 41psi.

Don't reverse the tire direction. It has set in to run and turn they way it is on the rim now. Keep the rear tires at the same psi to each other as recommended by the Trike Shop, too.

Also, I believe it is "general knowledge" that the steering stem needs to be torqued higher than a 2 wheeler. Hope someone with an 1800 can tell you the correct torque, it is most likely different than a 1500.

To check the bearings, block the rear tires, raise the front end and slowly turn the bars lock to lock, feeling for any spot that catches to see if a race is notched or a bearing damaged.

Then grab the forks and push and pull, feeling for any play in the bearings. Do this before and after torquing the stem nut. If you do get a rake kit, (Well worth the price, IMHO) you might consider getting an All Balls bearing set installed while the front end is apart. If I remember right, the GW1800 has ball bearings, and the All Balls converts to tapered roller bearings.

Edit - I see Zook beat me to some of what I said. I was typing as he was posting. Man I must be slow.

[Papa Zook]

Great post OZ...More detail than my post and spot on. The Champion rake kits have tapered bearings included and very decent IMHO though some do opt for the All Balls.

[pastor bill]

Ozarkryder and Bazooka:

Thank you both for the helpful manner in which you replied to my questions. I have talked with the shop which did my conversion and have agreed to have a 4 1/2 degree rake kit installed along with taper bearings. Although I have a Roadsmith conversion they will put on a kit from another manufacturer because Roadsmith only manufactures a 3 degree and a 5 1/2 degree kit. They have recently installed a 4 1/2 degree on another 1800 and the rider says he loves it, so I guess I'll get it done! They want $200.00 to replace the bearings with tapered bearings, but will put on a new 4 1/2 degree rake kit for $1100.00 (the same price for a 3 degree) which includes the tapered bearings. The 5 1/2 degree kit will cost $1200.00. The told me that the 5 1/2 degree is great for city driving, but possible a little too sensitive for a lot of highway driving. That's why they are promoting the 4 1/2 degree kits.

Thanks, Pastor Bill

[Ozarkryder]

Well Zook - I thank you. I didn't know the Champion rake kits came with the tapered roller bearings.

Pastor Bill - We have a 4 1/2° on our 1500. I think you will like the difference, it is like adding power steering. If you are used to the trike with the stock rake, you will be surprised how easy it turns, especially in the twisties. If I have a caution it would be that will steer a lot easier, so beware rounding corners. Not nearly as much effort is needed to turn and it will be easy to oversteer until you got used to it.

[bigdave]

I put the 5 1/2 degree rake kit on my Roadsmith and I love it. I live in the Northwest and when mountain driving it saves a lot of wear and tare on my arms and back. It is sensitive when you first start driving with it, but after a 1000 miles or so I wouldn't have any less rake than 5 1/2 degrees. It also comes with tapered roller bearings.

Dave Pomeroy

[pastor bill]

I thank each of you for your suggestions and responses to my questions. I listened to what you said, and, I had a 4 1/2 degree rake kit installed today. You are correct! What a difference. Not only did it eliminate the wobble, but the steering is so much easier. The owner of the shop who installed the kit told me that the 1500's had taper bearings and when they designed the 1800's, Honda designed the steering after the sport bikes (crotch rockets), and replaced the taper bearings with the ball bearings.They, Honda, claims there is no problem with the ball bearings in the 1800's. Personally, I believe they do not want to deal with a massive recall related to the steering bearings. Have any of you heard about this? I had two 1500's, an Interstate, and an Aspencade, and never had any problem with the steering head bearings. Pastor Bill