Chrome forks install

[03 Softail]

going to install chrome lowers on 2010 T.G.
Looking at pulling the forks off and having the dealership change the lowers
out do to the spring being under pressure.
Need to know if the front fairing needs to be removed or only the rear.
any tricks to removing the forks.
any suggestions would be apprecated.
thanks
dan

[Gorilla]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>03 Softail</strong>
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<div class="message">going to install chrome lowers on 2010 T.G.<br />
Looking at pulling the forks off and having the dealership change the lowers<br />
out do to the spring being under pressure.<br />
Need to know if the front fairing needs to be removed or only the rear.<br />
any tricks to removing the forks.<br />
any suggestions would be apprecated.<br />
thanks<br />
dan</div>

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</div>
</div>Hello, This is a fairly easy job if you are at all mechanical. You bdo not remove the springs or remove the spring stopper/bolt. The fork tubes come out in one piece and are not taken apart to change the sliders/lowers.<br />
<br />
You will need a manual to guide you along. Remove the outer fairing. remove the Ignition Switch. This is tricky to due as far as unlocking the forks with the switch stem removed. You can turn the lower part of the switch with a screw driver. Just think about what you are doing. Remove the panel under the ignition switch. This allows you room to remove the 2 plug bolts from the top of the forks.

I use a pair of channel locks. You will nick the chrome but they are not visible. Remove the tire and fender, passing/turm signal bracket. damper, deflector, backside of the lower triple tree loosen the crimp bolts. remove the bolt on the top of each fork and they should slide out.<br />
<br />
This next step is messy, oil is going to come out, clamp the fork tube so you can remove the bolts out of the bottom of the assembly. Need a 6mm long allen wrench. on the top of the slider remove the spring retained clip. slide the lower down the tube with some force and the whole tube assembly will pull out with the seal etc.<br />
<br />
reverse to install pretty much. The manual will help in the areas that need more definition. This a quick basic instruction but it is not very hard job.

About 4 to 5 hours the first time you do it. Remember to put the forks back in lock to install the switch stem this has to be alligned up like it was when removed. Really only tricky area. Again you do not remove the springs unless you are lowering it or replacing the tubes.<br />
<br />
<br />
By the way I have a set of CHROME sliders/lowers and upper covers listed in the FOR SALE classified section. By the way they have to be for a TRI-Glide. Regular touring sliders mount the fender differently and I believe (not absolutely sure) that the axle is a different size then a touriing.

[Oldmsocko]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Gorilla</strong>
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<div class="message">Hello, This is a fairly easy job if you are at all mechanical. You bdo not remove the springs or remove the spring stopper/bolt. The fork tubes come out in one piece and are not taken apart to change the sliders/lowers.<br />
<br />
You will need a manual to guide you along. Remove the outer fairing. remove the Ignition Switch. This is tricky to due as far as unlocking the forks with the switch stem removed. You can turn the lower part of the switch with a screw driver. Just think about what you are doing. Remove the panel under the ignition switch. This allows you room to remove the 2 plug bolts from the top of the forks.

I use a pair of channel locks. You will nick the chrome but they are not visible. Remove the tire and fender, passing/turm signal bracket. damper, deflector, backside of the lower triple tree loosen the crimp bolts. remove the bolt on the top of each fork and they should slide out.<br />
<br />
This next step is messy, oil is going to come out, clamp the fork tube so you can remove the bolts out of the bottom of the assembly. Need a 6mm long allen wrench. on the top of the slider remove the spring retained clip. slide the lower down the tube with some force and the whole tube assembly will pull out with the seal etc.<br />
<br />
reverse to install pretty much. The manual will help in the areas that need more definition. This a quick basic instruction but it is not very hard job.

About 4 to 5 hours the first time you do it. Remember to put the forks back in lock to install the switch stem this has to be alligned up like it was when removed. Really only tricky area. Again you do not remove the springs unless you are lowering it or replacing the tubes.<br />
<br />
<br />
By the way I have a set of CHROME sliders/lowers and upper covers listed in the FOR SALE classified section. By the way they have to be for a TRI-Glide. Regular touring sliders mount the fender differently and I believe (not absolutely sure) that the axle is a different size then a touriing.</div>

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</div>
</div>I'm curious, why do you need to remove the ignition switch? M3 and I changed out the lower tubes on our 06 Ultras and our TG and we never removed the ignition switch.

[Nauga Mok]

There's no need to uncage the springs or even remove the forks IF you have access to a 2 piece seal driver. After dropping the front wheel, drain oil out of lowers, pull bottom bolt &amp; the lowers will drop down. Remove seal retaining clip &amp; "slide hammer" the seals out -- raise &amp; forcefully extend the lowers a few times &amp; the seals will pop out. Switch the upper bushing inside the old lowers to the new lowers. Switch out the old "cans" (upper fork covers) If you're going to replace seals, swap them before placing the new lowers back on the tubes. Put new lowers back on, install bottom bolts. Install the seals with the 2 piece installer -- again using the "slide hammer" method, install seal retaining clips. Remove front faring, remove top plugs on the tubes -- 1 3/16" wrench if I remember right. Add about 11 oz oil through the top of the tube now opened by removing the top plug on each tube. Replace top plug, re-install front faring &amp; take it for a ride.

Even with the valved front suspentions, the air will self purge as you hit bumps. It'll be a little bouncy at first 'till the air is worked out of the lowers. The newer (09 &amp; later) forks use ATF for fork oil. You can spend $10+/pint at Harley -- &amp; you'll need 2 pts or you can go to your local auto supply, or even Walmart &amp; pick up a Qt of Mercon ATF for under $5 -- same stuff.<br />
<br />
NM

[Gorilla]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Oldmsocko</strong>
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<div class="message">I'm curious, why do you need to remove the ignition switch? M3 and I changed out the lower tubes on our 06 Ultras and our TG and we never removed the ignition switch.</div>

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</div>I remove it to remove the switch panel under it. This allows access to the top of the tubes if you do not remove the inter fairing. What do you do different to get to the top of the tubes?

[Oldmsocko]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Gorilla</strong>
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<div class="message">I remove it to remove the switch panel under it. This allows access to the top of the tubes if you do not remove the inter fairing. What do you do different to get to the top of the tubes?</div>

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</div>We remove outer fairing and radio, loosen up the pinch clamp and drive the the forks out with a 2x2.

[msocko3]

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Gorilla</strong>
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<div class="message">I remove it to remove the switch panel under it. This allows access to the top of the tubes if you do not remove the inter fairing. What do you do different to get to the top of the tubes?</div>

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</div>I have a very short socket made by Jims for removing the bolt from the top of the tubes. Like my dad said I pull the radio to gain access, some need driven out and some will just fall right out.

[03 Softail]

Thanks guys for all the replies, we're leaving for a Florida vacation end of the week,
when I get back, will give it a shot.
I have the service manual, in there it reads as if you had to remove the springs.
Gorilla's way sound farly simple, will give it a try.
thanks again

[JohnC]

Dan - Please be sure to post back after your fork swap and let us know how it went, what problems you ran into, etc. I plan on swapping my forks next winter but was going to have the dealer do it (my winter projects for this year are complete). Based on what I read here, it sounds like I should be able to do this myself.

[Gorilla]

It is not that complicated to do. Good luck. Ask any questions between us we can get you going.

[03 Softail]

will let you know how it goes, hopfully nice and easy, will be awhile, taking the
grandkids to Disney World end of the week for 10 days.
Dan

[03 Softail]

Called the the dealer today to check on a price to change the lowers.
If I take the forks in 2 hours labor @ 85.00 per hr. = 170.00 plus any seals and fluid.

If I take the Trike in 4hrs, @ 85.00 per hr. = 340.00 plus any seals and fluid.

I can maybe see 4hrs. taking the forks off the bike, changing the lowers and putting everything back togeather, but 2hrs. to just replace the sliders, they must be moving
at a snails pace.
A person would be better off to buy the tools needed to change the lowers, would
probably be less expensive than H.D. labor prices and you would have the tools when
you were done.

[msocko3]

A person would be better off to buy the tools needed to change the lowers, would
probably be less expensive than H.D. labor prices and you would have the tools when
you were done.

Thats what I did, and I've used the tools 4 times since I bought them so its money in the bank for me. I've amassed a pretty good collection of the specialized tools for working on bikes, trikes and the Twin Cam engine, figure buy the tools instead of paying the dealer. In my case the dealer I used to do business with had parts changers instead of honest to goodness mechanics plus the new owner was to arrogant for my liking.

[03 Softail]

that's what I think I'm going to do, I already have a seal driver, I think it's 41mm what size forks are on the T.G., anybody know.
Only other tools that I should need would be a fork clamp and fork oil gauge.
does anyone know if you would need a spring compressor and if so what kind
should a person get.
thanks

[msocko3]

that's what I think I'm going to do, I already have a seal driver, I think it's 41mm what size forks are on the T.G., anybody know.
Only other tools that I should need would be a fork clamp and fork oil gauge.
does anyone know if you would need a spring compressor and if so what kind
should a person get.
thanks

They are 41mm, you won't need a spring compressor however there is some spring pressure on the cap when you get it loose so be ready. The bolt which goes through the bottom of the lowers is a 6mm, they are generally pretty tight from thread locker. You will need a long one to get in there, I took a regular L shaped allen and cut the L off so I could chuck it in a 6mm 6 point socket. The reason you'll need that is so you can torque it to spec. To make life simpler you can pick up a 41mm fork nut socket like this one Jims Fork Nut Socket. When putting the fork nut back in your going to have to compress the spring some, some folks use a palm ratchet, I use an air operated impact to get it started and snugged up because I was to cheap to buy a palm ratchet.

[Vettster]

Check out this page:http://www.motorcyclemetal.com/gpage1.html
Lots of good info as well as a PDF download on how to do it.

[03 Softail]

Well I got the sliders changed, was not bad at all, just need to watch what you are
doing. Remove front wheel and fender and wire tie brake calipers out of the way.
I did take the front fairing and ignition panel off. Loosen the top fork nuts,
I had to loosen the steering damper in order to get at the pinch bolts, loosen pinch bolts,
hold onto fork as you remove the top fork nut, forks came right out.
I had the wife hold the fork, while I removed the lower damper bolt, I was very lucky as
the bolts came right out. After removing the retainer clip, just pull the slider from the
fork using slide hammer action. Assembled the forks with new chome slider in the
reverse order. I put in 11.8 oz of fork oil in each tube, slid the fork into the triple tree,
started the top nut, but did not tighten, tighten the pinch bolts to 70 -75 foot# (note:
sevice manual says 53 -57 foot #, T.G manual states 70-75 # , also hold true for the
front wheel nut service manual says 60-65 foot #, T.G. manual says 70 - 75 foot #.)
after tightening down the pinch bolts tighten down the top fork nuts, 60 - 70 foot #,
here you'll have to guess at the torque, as you can't get in there with a torque wrench.
Install your front fender, wheel, fairing and ignition switch panel.
Only needed basic tools, I already had a 41mm seal driver, and I purchased a ignition
tool from Marc Parnes Products for 25.00 shipped, that worked out very well when taking
the ignition switch out.
Also removed the front fairing to install upgraded speakers, front and rear, also made it
easier to install the chrome tin cans.
thanks for everyones help in getting this accomplished, it's always nice to be able to do
the work yourself, 1 for the satifacton and 2 you don't have to pay the dealer those
high labor prices.
Thanks
Dan

[JohnC]

Good job, Dan!

When removing the top fork nuts on each upper fork tube, did you encounter any kind of spring tension or anything?

Do these nuts need to be removed before you can slide the upper tubes out of the trees or do you just want to loosen them up while the upper tubes are still "clamped" in the trees?

How hard was it to get the nuts back on the upper tubes?

[03 Softail]

John,
the upper fork nuts come right off , they are not under pressure, you need to take them off all the way in order for the fork to slide out of the tripple tree.
Once you get the forks out, you'll see another top nut that the 1st nut went into, this is the one that is under pressure and holds the spring in, do not remove that nut.
when you remove the 1st nut, there's a black washer that goes around the nut shaft,
looks like a garden hose washer, though this hole you'll put the new fork oil in.
It's hard to explain, but ounce you remove that top fork nut and pull your forks out you'll
see exactly what I'm saying. Puttin the top nuts back on is very easy, no problems
just pm me when your ready to change your sliders.
Dan

[Gorilla]

Congrats Dan It was good talking to you. It really is a straight forward job.

John C if you do not have your Chrome Sliders I have a set for sale. PM me.

Ted