Rear Brakes on Tri-Glide

[OlBandit]

Well, last Saturday my Tri-Glide, with 7324 miles on it, broke down in Gettysburg, it did not start, battery almost dead. After about 20 minutes I got it started and went to the local Harley dealer to have it looked at. They determined that the voltage regulator went bad and drained the battery. After being there all day, got there at 11am, left at 5pm, the dealer informed me that they put a new voltage regulator on it but did not have a chance to charge the battery. What??? Thanks for all the help Harley Dealer!!!! They then informed me that the E-Brake was not working, how could that be I had the bike in last week for it's 5000 mile service? Finally, they got it going and I rode it up the highway for a bit.

It sat all night and in the morning I fired it up and rode 2 hours to get home and put the battery tender on it. On Monday, I took it up to my local dealer where I purchased it from and told them about my escapade on Saturday.

I asked that they look at the charging system and the E-Brake.

The local dealer told me the charging system was fine and that the E-Brake would not work because I needed rear brakes.

The dealer informed me that next month when I bring it in they would do the brake job on it.

Well, I'm an auto mechanic, so how hard could it be to change rear disc brakes on the tri-glide. Monday afternoon I talk with Lyndall and they tell me that they do not have the brakes for a 2011 Tri-Glide and it will be about 2 months before they get them. So, I go up to the Harley dealer yesterday and purchase the Harley Davidson rear brake pads and head home.

Last night I decide that I would change out the brakes. I pulled the new brakes out of the box and low and behold the new pads have about 4/32 of lining on them. Ok, I now see why you need brakes every 7000 miles, but wait gets better. I take the brake pads off the right side and the lining on them are 3/32 of lining left. Hhhhmmm, guess I really did not need new brakes after all, what a dealer ploy, so I continue and replace the brakes anyway, the rotors looked fine so nothing required to do there. After putting on the rear brakes I adjust the e-brake and everything is fine, no squealing at the moment.

I will have to get some Lyndall brakes when they are available.

Bottom line, the Harley dealers really bite when it comes to any kind of service, they are out for top dollar and dont care if you need the parts or not, they will sell them to you either way!

Sorry for the long post, just had to vent a little bit.

Ride Safe!

 

[1550vt]

Let 'er rip Bandit. This is a very, very old story and there must be thousands of posts across a multitude of forums concerning TG brakes. Many owners just go ahead and trash the parking brake and get that out of the way. You can obtain calipers and pads to replace the ones on there now and never have another problem, but the concern over the warranty prevents many folks from taking that leap until the warranty expires.

As for dealer frustration......it's just part of the Harley tax we all pay, or have paid in the past and it is getting worse every day as the older mechanics and dealer personnel retire.

 

[Nana]

And then there are those treasures like Ben Baxter, of Baxter's HD in Bidwell, Ohio. He never says something is needed when it is not -- in fact has recommended against requested service if everything is still ok; he never bills for more than <u>actual</u> service time, while most dealers bill maximum time allowed by Harley; and when he gives a written quote on service or a trike build, he still bills you only for <u>actual</u> time and parts, even when it is less than the original quote. If you live anywhere near Gallipolis, Ohio area it is worth the drive to Baxter's for your HD service! (And no, he is not a member or a sponsor here, just an honest man who does good work!)

 

[10rhrk]

I know what you are feeling Olbandit. Lot of post over on HDforums about Dealer's pulling this stuff on Customer's. This is why I started doing my own service. My Dealer won't see my bike unless it's warranty related. Harley has a lot of issues with Voltage regulator's. Mine went out on my 2010 Road King back in June on the way up to the Triketalk Rally. Nana's husband Mike said his went out on the way down. They are expensive too! I took the parking brake off my wife's 2010 Street Glide trike right after we bought it. When we traded for the 2012 Triglide, I handed it to the Salesman in a box.

He gave me that Deer in the headlight's look....lol.

Kinda payback for him charging me 75.00 dollars for putting four bolt's in mounting the bumper on the 2012

 

[1550vt]

The newer machines have a much greater current draw on the overall charging system. In part, because of all the data points that get monitored and senors required to get that accomplished. I would find myself turning off current-drawing devices if not needed at every opportunity. Take running lamps for instance...those things draw a heap of current and I would usually switch them off unless I was in a high-traffic area, or was riding at night. The cruise-control is another power draining animal. My main reason for that was historical in nature. Before Harley started upgrading the charging systems, invariably we would have at least one bike loose a stator on a long trip. Particularly if it was very hot, or the owner insisted on having every light and do-dad possible wired-in and turned on. The MOCO has came a long way since then and have improved the output and reliability of the alternators. None-the-less....the less current-drawing stuff you have on, the less likely you are to have alternator or regulator troubles.

 

[screwball]

And then there are those treasures like Ben Baxter, of Baxter's HD in Bidwell, Ohio.

Ditto Antelope Valley Harley Davidson in Lancaster, Ca. or Barger Harley in Canoga Park, Ca. Got nothing but good to say about either dealer. When all the discussions about heating were going on, and someone mentioned a download I called Steve, the service manager. He looked up my trikes and said both were done LAST YEAR when I bought the '11 and was having the 15,000 mile service on the '09.

When I took the '09 in for it's 20,000 mile service last week, I asked them to change the rear pads. We are off on a 14 day ride, and I figured it was time. They called me and told me I didn't really need them, but if I felt better about new breaks on a road trip they would change them.

It's a shame you have to deal with unreliable dealers!

 

[msocko3]

Bottom line, the Harley dealers really bite when it comes to any kind of service, they are out for top dollar and dont care if you need the parts or not, they will sell them to you either way!

Pretty much why I do my own work, got tired of being bent over by the dealer, not to mention their service dept really went down hill once the new owner took over and the service manager quit. The new service manager doesn't know a cam from a piston or a torque wrench from a breaker bar. I will say the brake pads last a lot longer when you don't adjust or even use the parking brake.

 

[1550vt]

Oh yes....there are some good ones out there. But then....when you drive into the Durango, CO dealership to have a rear tire replaced on a two wheeler and they quote you 4-hours labor at $100/hour plus the tire cost....it's time to go across the street and have one installed on a Harley at the Honda Shop in less than an hour for $200 total....which is about normal.

 

[eagle1]

if you want to change the brakes to a automotive ( mid 80's ford) i believe his has a 11" disc. so you don't have to change wheels. contact
roger moak@hotmail.com he has a custom brake system, you might look into.lb

 

[Bikerbozo]

Pretty much why I do my own work, got tired of being bent over by the dealer, not to mention their service dept really went down hill once the new owner took over and the service manager quit. The new service manager doesn't know a cam from a piston or a torque wrench from a breaker bar. I will say the brake pads last a lot longer when you don't adjust or even use the parking brake.

Exactly the conclusion I have come to. I stopped even trying to adjust the E-brake months ago. What I was reading in different locations was that might be contributing to faster wear of pads. Left the adjustment wide open. Guess I will see how that works out since I am on my 2nd set of pads at the 20K service (they were in stock since they had ordered 2 sets at previous replacement) on my '10 TG.:Joker3:

 

[1550vt]

My expertise (if you want to stretch it that far) was converting the older Lehman kits (be they belt, or shaft) to disc brakes and I have helped several people do that. Still am as a matter-of -fact for just a few hundred dollars using Ford Fox Bodied components, crotch-rocket front radial 4-piston calipers and the stock rear master cylinder.

The problem with the TG is....not many of them are out of warranty and folks do not want to do anything to void any warranty. When the time comes....you can make one stop with better brakes after these things start coming out from under warranty. There are some aftermarket kits out there, but the cost is exceedingly high.

It's amazing what a guy can do with a little ingenuity, imagination and ....e-bay.

 

[Oldmsocko]

Changed the rear pads on my 09 TG at 19,000 miles to Lyndall and still had lining left. I never adjusted the E brake and last winter the E brake was removed. I certainly don't need it.

I carry a Velcro strap and will wrap it around my front brake handle if I park it in a place I feel needs more braking than just leaving it in gear.

 

[Bikerbozo]

Of course, I find the weaker rear brake better in snow & rain. The front wheel locks up way too easy in slick conditions. That probably hasn't helped me not wear them down.

 

[1550vt]

You do need REAL GOOD rear brakes on a trike. Unlike a 2-wheeler...you cannot depend on the fronts. I cut a rear brake line in Canada and between the aggravation of not being able to get a dealer to work-in-in for a replacement (and my not wanting to crawl-around on the ground to fix it) I brought it home on the front brake....around 2,000 miles. I did make it home, but it was one of those things I should not have done and was lucky enough to get by with it. You have to plan far in advance for a stop and hope you don't have to stop in a hurry. I would say.....forget you have a front brake and get use to using the rears only. That is the only thing that will stop you if you have to come to an abrupt halt. I only use the fronts in stop-n-go traffic, parking lots and holding at a signal light.

 

[10rhrk]

And then there are those treasures like Ben Baxter, of Baxter's HD in Bidwell, Ohio. He never says something is needed when it is not -- in fact has recommended against requested service if everything is still ok; he never bills for more than actual service time, while most dealers bill maximum time allowed by Harley; and when he gives a written quote on service or a trike build, he still bills you only for actual time and parts, even when it is less than the original quote. If you live anywhere near Gallipolis, Ohio area it is worth the drive to Baxter's for your HD service! (And no, he is not a member or a sponsor here, just an honest man who does good work!)

You are absolutely right Nana, theres a lot of good honest Dealer's around. Seem's we only hear about the bad one's on forum's. Mountain Creek HD in Dalton Ga. has the best service Dept. record around this area. I can call the service Manager and get a straight answer about anything I need to know.

 

[SEAlaskan]

You do need REAL GOOD rear brakes on a trike. Unlike a 2-wheeler...you cannot depend on the fronts. I cut a rear brake line in Canada and between the aggravation of not being able to get a dealer to work-in-in for a replacement (and my not wanting to crawl-around on the ground to fix it) I brought it home on the front brake....around 2,000 miles. I did make it home, but it was one of those things I should not have done and was lucky enough to get by with it. You have to plan far in advance for a stop and hope you don't have to stop in a hurry. I would say.....forget you have a front brake and get use to using the rears only. That is the only thing that will stop you if you have to come to an abrupt halt. I only use the fronts in stop-n-go traffic, parking lots and holding at a signal light.

I agree with the need of good rear breaks. With wet roads, dirt roads, steep wet streets which I deal with all the time an have the front wheel skid. I also agree that you don't want rear brakes to lock up real easy on wet or dirt roads, "BUT".
You had your rear brakes go out on you. What if the front brakes go out on you? I've had rocks it the front caliper in the area where the brake line connects to the front caliper. Things to think about!!
Butch

 

[skuuter]

Dealerships, whether Harley Davidson, Honda, Chevrolet, KIA, or whatever are never "ALL BAD" or "ALL GOOD"......You hafta' hunt em' out. In over 41 years of Motorcycles, and a Total Lifetime of Cars, I've found Fantastic Ones (the Ones I stay with), Terrible Ones (never return to), and everywhere in between. I like to think I run a very honest, helpful Automobile Junk Yard, and really try to, but I also know other Great Ones, and some really bad Ones, plus the "in between" variety.......Shop around for a really Good Dealer...THEY ARE OUT THERE.....ThumbUp

 

[BREWMAN]

Email Address

Can you advise if Roger (moak@hotmail.com) has changed his email address?? I am interested in a custom brake system.

Thanks!

Brewman608@aol.com

if you want to change the brakes to a automotive ( mid 80's ford) i believe his has a 11" disc. so you don't have to change wheels. contact
roger moak@hotmail.com he has a custom brake system, you might look into.lb

 

[Chilltrike]

How do you get piston back into caliper?

On the 2014 Tri Glide how did you get piston slide back into caliper?