Weird noise in clutch

triwinggirl · Mar 18, 2019

HI EVERYONE; it's me again with another question? I got this weird spin squeaking noise coming from my clutch. I can also hear it from the front of the engine. from my experience changing my clutch hydraulic parts I know about the shaft and believe this to be the problem. what im asking could there be a bad part on the clutch itself. im removing the rod to inspect it, I assume if the rod is damaged on he clutch end then I got expensive work to do.

triwinggirl · Mar 18, 2019

i got the rod out and it looks the same as last time i had it out. i think im missing something?

3W-lonerider · Mar 20, 2019

This happens on valkyries to. The push pin that comes out of the slave cyl. And makes. Contact with the clutch bearing Will get dry and make noise. Grease that that push pin and see if your problem goes away. You shouldn't loose any fluid or loose pressure by just pulling the slave out of the back of the engine. Unless you undo the hyd line. Which shouldn't have to be done.

triwinggirl · Apr 3, 2019

thats going to be my next thing i do, put the rod back in and greese both ends. when i did my recent front end install and replaced the clutch hydrolics i did not greese the inside end. im also going to change the oil and cut open the oil filter just to make sure nothing bad is wrong. i have been thinking this should fix the problem, as it sound like a dry issue. I have been think that the rod was spinning in the slave and the grease dried up in the slave and the dry shaft was spinning dry at both ends. hoping I caught it before any real damage was done. the rod could be replaced but is still useable too.

wish me luck

triwinggirl · Jun 15, 2019

I changed the oil no particles, I put the rod back in, bled the clutch, the noise came back.its in the clutch im not even getting full pull on the lever. I cant afford a lift so im doing this on the ground. I need to fix my rear brake connections behind the radiators and replace a broken plastic piece also under the radiator.

so im going to basically disassemble her again this time taking front body and radiators, gas tank, rear fenders. mostly all the way to engine and frame. good thing ive done this before.

Sidecarbill · Jun 16, 2019

I thought hondas had a bearing on one end. I think it was called a clutch lifter bearing. I don't see it working for long without one. But I don't have a gl1800 so I don't know.

triwinggirl · Jun 19, 2019

I think its either the bearing or the springs.

triwinggirl · Jun 22, 2019

finally started working

I finally got the wheels off, in this case I was right, I wore out my lug nuts to the point the key tool no longer fit. so I got new lug nuts and a new key tool. 1 problem fixed.

now that the wheels are off I discovered that the rear end right side case bearing is very bad and missing bearings. as some will remember I replaced the spindle bearings but not the case bearings. well now im going to be replacing the case bearings. yes all 4 of them, both sides. problem 2 identified.

next off are the shocks, the rear exhaust, the rear fenders. then will come the exhaust manifold, the seat and gas tank. this will give me access to the clutch. problem 4 I will also be removing the body and repairing a rear brake line issue and a broken plastic piece between the body and engine. then I can identify the third problem with the clutch.

this is where I at, I will know more soon, at least I can work now the wheels are off. still need 2 people to help remove the fenders, it takes 3 people to remove them. yes Im going to remove the battery today and put it on a charger this time. might be 6 months for this repair.

the good news is JOY is not wrecked this time. this should be a smooth disassemble and reassemble. I don't have to remove any wiring or the main stay or the handle bars. just the body and radiators moved aside. the motor is leaning forward so I should not have to remove my new oil just keep the clutch cover on when not working.

Sidecarbill · Jun 22, 2019

I admire your ambition.:Coffee:

triwinggirl · Aug 2, 2019

to those wondering how im doing

it got real hot here with high humidity. so I took the battery out drained the gas, took her off the jacks and put her cover on, joy is in storage for now. joy will be fixed when it cools off.

1dn5up · Aug 3, 2019

Slow n steady will win the race .

triwinggirl · Feb 29, 2020

GOOD NEWS

I got my wheel chock fixed so it wont damage my new front car tire, so I can work on the rear end bearing and other unknown issues.

bad news to follow as it comes apart. wish me luck

triwinggirl · Apr 30, 2020

im buying clutch parts and rebuilding the clutch. no I have not purchased a lift table just not in the budget. I will handle what I have to do.

im also fixing the broken bearing in the rear end. plus the rear brake issue. although im still deciding whether im going to modify the connecting blocks behind the radiator or the lines. the lines would need to be drilled to fit the connecting blocks. as this would preserve the o ring seals inside the connecting blocks this is being considered.

1dn5up · Apr 30, 2020

triwinggirl said:
im buying clutch parts and rebuilding the clutch. no I have not purchased a lift table just not in the budget. I will handle what I have to do.

im also fixing the broken bearing in the rear end. plus the rear brake issue. although im still deciding whether im going to modify the connecting blocks behind the radiator or the lines. the lines would need to be drilled to fit the connecting blocks. as this would preserve the o ring seals inside the connecting blocks this is being considered.

Good to hear you didn’t give up. Last year you were considering selling . Sooner than later it will all come together :clapping:

FuzzyWuzHe · Apr 30, 2020

1dn5up said:
Good to hear you didn’t give up. Last year you were considering selling . Sooner than later it will all come together :clapping:

+1 ... I love reading your "adventures" ... pretty sure more than you like living them ... :AGGHH: ... keep the faith and you will get this all fixed. You already have a gorgeous trike ... just need to get her to run like she looks .. I know you will.

triwinggirl · May 2, 2020

I ordered my rear bearing as it is the only part I know for sure needs replacing. I disassembled the body today and exposed the radiators so I can get to the brake line connections in question that are leaking. also so I can get to the clutch to check for damage. I will order gaskets for the ones I will damage. I will order damaged parts as I find them and fix existing parts if able. next I will pull the radiators to work on the lines and see if I need new connectors again. otherwise I going to drill the holes In the lines to fit the factory seals in the connectors and fix the leaks. after the brakes the clutch is next.

triwinggirl · May 3, 2020

i got the radiators loose not unhooked stilll holding fluid. i was able to remove the connector behind the left and the block on the right. these 2 parts are undamaged and reusable. the eurowing brake lines are also undamaged.

so all I have to do is drill out the holes in the eurowing lines to fit over the internal nipples inside the connector blocks and my brake line issue is fixed. with minimal disassembly.

everything is now taped over until I get help to do the drilling. just 2 holes. oh my god did those eurowing front end assembly instruction leave so much out.

yes this time im also going to use Teflon tape.

triwinggirl · May 3, 2020

I've been thinking about this fix and that it did not automatically come to me. also that the way to do the fix has caused me so much thinking.

I know I have to remove the lines to drill them and then clean them out. I got my old damaged parts for testing. what gets me is in the past this would have all been done same day. all put together by now. im glad im able to still work it out. believe me when I say head injuries add up.

triwinggirl · May 6, 2020

well i got to thinking that to just hold the line in the vise would not work. so I made this and was able to test drill 2 old unused damaged lines that I replaced. they work great now. now my decision is 1. use the unused clean lines, clean out just the metal shaving as no brake fluid been in them then install or 2. remove the new lines off the bike clean the brake fluid out of them drill them clean them again and install. both will work. im leaning toward #1 when this works the lines will be repaired no cost and ready to bleed. still waiting on honda parts and the rear bearing to arrive. oh yea I killed another battery. I got to use my new battery tester to determine that. thank you

triwinggirl · May 9, 2020

YEEE HHAAAAA

the rear brakes are fixed and working. I did not have to buy a master cylinder.

the bearing is changed on the axle. Im not really equipped to beat a bearing off. so with the help of an axle shop, a press, and a proper vise. the bearing is on the shaft the shaft is ready to install.

I will be able to reinstall the body soon, then the new fenders.

so far little money spent im so happy.

could use a painter and body guy. that will work for weed.