Stires Stallion Flat Back

[Lost Newfie]

I have just purchased a 1986 Stires Stallion Flat Back Trike. Looking for a detailed parts manual. Also any wiring diagrams. Whoever wired this trike originally needs their knuckles whacked. LOL. Having a hard time trying to figure out what year of volkswagen was used for brakes etc. this trike was purchased directly from Stires. I have all of the original order documets. Any help would be appreciated..

 

[rhino 2]

Welcome to Trike-Talk....Glenn.....:clapping:

 

[peteg59]

Welcome to TT Glenn.

The serial# on the engine block will tell the year of the engine. As for the transaxle, there is no way to put an exact year on that.

Is it a swing axle or IRS? Depending on your answer, a year range can be established...

 

[radismukes]

:welcome:To the Trike Talk Family! FROM SOUTH

 

[trikeman]

:wave4:

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

It has likely been rebuilt/apart several times and is pieced back together with whatever.

A lot of the vw stuff interchanges.

Pictures of the vw parts and we can narrow it down a lot.

The cast in numbers that stick up above surface do not mean much and do not identify anything.

You are looking for numbers that are stamped into the metal.

Pictures, pictures.

As far as wiring goes..

I do not have a diagram specific to your trike.

Most of it will be wired extremely similar to a vw. The main difference being the use of the motorcycle switches on the handlebars instead of the dashboard switches.

 

[Lost Newfie]

The trike is all original. Never touched. Only 691 miles since built new. The engine is by Dune Buggy Performance in California. It hasn't even had its first oil change yet. The only thing wrong is the electrical. Poor choice of connectors and wiring methods. Lots of t-tap connectors and tape. Going to have to change everything to proper heat shrinked crimped connectors and soldered joints.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

That is how my VW trike was wired, but by to many hands trying to correct or add stuff to the electrical system.

I started by drawing out how and what was wired on the trike, looked up other wiring of trikes and VW engine's, and figured out the proper and better way, than I drew up the wiring diagrams for the circuits and rewired the trike. I also put in a full instrument panel at the same time.

I would say you have a nice winter project if you want to get it done correctly, also all has years of weather to it, so look over the switch's and any relays for any that may or should be replaced.

Not all install all correctly, I actually have to re do my light circuit so relays are used and I do not burn things up. I have learned a lot on this site, plus the proper way a fuel system should be set up, it does not have to be that way, but it is safer.

Welcome to the site and your new Trike, sounds great and hope all checks out ready to rumble.

 

[sdewolfe]

brake ID and wiring

I think that any parts list you might find for Stires or Arizona trikes would not help you; neither company is around. I have no idea who owns the rights to those molds and parts now. If you are missing parts, you will have to either fabricate or find a replacement from someone like Possum Pride trikes.

To help ID your brakes, see this page:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=550290&start=0

The pictures are missing but there is valuable information there for identifying the parts you need for the brakes.

Not knowing how comfortable you are with wiring and what you are starting with (what is already on the bike and usable and what needs to be done to make it right) makes it difficult to advise you on a course of action. If it is truly FUBAR, I would replace it all. You can find relatively inexpensive kits (EMPI makes one) to provide the wires and a new fuse block. If you want to update to blade fuses now is the time to do that.

Here is an EMPI harness with a wiring diagram that you should be able to modify to use for your bike:

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com/wire-loom-kit.html

Just delete the extra headlight and wipers. That diagram is set up for a VW speedometer, where all the dash gauges and warning lights lived. Easy enough to work around with stand alone gauges by following where the wires are going from the speedometer.

If you are running an alternator, the AMP light, filament type 2W, is absolutely essential. See this article:

http://www.vw-resource.com/alternator_wiring.html#alt

Let us know if you need advice on 'how-to' splice, solder, etc.

 

[Lost Newfie]

Pulled body off today. Tagged and identified all circuits. Starting to lay out my custom wiring harness. Calculating correct amount of fuses and relays to do the job. Will be adding remote controlled hidden underbody lighting, Line lock and other electrical goodies. Will be upgrading to all LED running lighting. I don't mind putting in a bit of time and effort to do a job that will last for the life of the trike and not having any electrical issues down the road.

 

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Welcome to the Gang from Western Colorado.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Keep you head up, you can do this...….Yes it helps to have some talent for the task, but if you never played with it, does not mean you can not do it, just you have not tried yet.

My point I owned a bug as my first car, so had another or two over the years, a Trike NOT, a crotch rocket yes, but kept it factory serviced and so I knew how to ride...……..

I have done a lot to this trike I did not expect nor did I think I could do it.

Remember to take the time and draw out a schematic of the wiring you did, if you sell it goes with the trike, if you keep it than you have a way to work on what you did. If that is not your cup of tea, maybe some one can help you.

A new Adventure, enjoy it.

 

[Lost Newfie]

Completed full identification of all circuits . Put everything in to auto cad. Took lots of photos. To add to my Trike Documentation File. Will start tomorrow to figure out all the custom extras that I will add to the Trike wiring. Full wiring clean up will begin on Saturday. Body is heading out tonight for full polishing and buffing.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Sounds like all is moving forward at a steady pace. I hope to get back to it this afternoon, but glad to read all is working in your favor.

 

[werewolf]

My 1972 WilMac Kit on a 66 vw motor and a unknown vw van rear end

had TWO fuses TOTAL. LOL

If I would have kept it, the last of the old vw mechanics suggested a complete

rewire job.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Completed full identification of all circuits . Put everything in to auto cad. Took lots of photos.

Sound like you have it handled. Excellent job.

Lots of folks start out with a universal dune buggy harness and fuse box. The only big benefit is having a big rainbow of colors. Sure makes it easier to keep up with which wire does what.

Mine is a jumbled up mess of ford parts hooked to Chevy parts hooked to Kawasaki parts hooked to vw parts and on and on.....so color this hooked to other color that....to no end it seems.

 

[Lost Newfie]

Here is an electrical question for you Volkswagen techs. My generator wiring is mixed up. No surprise LOL. Here is what I have. Generator Df hooked to Regulator D+, Generator D+ hooked to Regulator Df and Fuse Panel, Regulator 61 hooked to Amp Meter and Regulator B+ to Battery. Everything runs and Battery Charges?? I know that I have unregulated Power. By rights I should be able to change everything back to what it is supposed to be (Df to Df, D+ to D+ and connect fuse panel to B+) and everything work correctly with regulated 12v to the Battery and Fuse Panel. Should the generator even be woking correctly wired backwards?

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Hummm, looked at mine and I do not have a regulator wired into any of it.

It all starts and works, so I thought, but know I might have an answer to why some gauges act a bit off. Looks like I have another project/issue to resolve before spring time comes.:clapping:

 

[sdewolfe]

Should the generator even be woking correctly wired backwards?

The generator only knows current paths. If it has those, it will gen. Wired backward, it won't work correctly. My guess is it would generate a runaway voltage until it overheats.

 

[sdewolfe]

Hummm, looked at mine and I do not have a regulator wired into any of it.

It all starts and works, so I thought, but know I might have an answer to why some gauges act a bit off. Looks like I have another project/issue to resolve before spring time comes.:clapping:

Andy, do you have a generator or an alternator? More recent alternators have the regulator mounted on the back of the alternator. They do need an exciter wire from the idiot light but otherwise they only need a battery to charge.

As far as your gauges go, the most likely culprit is a bad ground. A close second would be corroded terminals. Either way, you do have another project/issue to resolve.