Question on the 2nd oil change - 4K Miles

mpolissky

New member
Jun 21, 2009
318
8
Boynton Beach, FL
I have a question for all you experienced GL1800 Trikers.<br />
<br />
I'm due for my 2nd oil change at 4K Miles within the next few weeks and need your guidance with the following:<br />
<br />
<ol class="decimal"><li style="">Should switch to Synthetic? If yes,</li><li style="">What brand oil and filter combination should I choose?</li><li style="">Should I get full or semi synthetic and why?</li><li style="">Is there anything else I should pay attention to at 4K Mile service?</li></ol><br />
Thank you,
 
Go to Wally World or Tractor Supply and look for Rotella in a blue gallon jug ( made by Shell I believe) about $18.00 a gallon . We ( the Goldwing Guys) have been using it and everyone loves it. . Semi Synthetic<br />
From the GWRRA forum:<br />
Ditto on the 15-40 Rotella. Been using it for about the last 6-8 years in every vehicle we own. 81 VW Rabbit diesel, 97 Neon, 92 GL1500SE, 2000 Dodge Caravan, 2003 CH80 Elite scooter, and the lawn mower also. I buy it in the 2 1/2 gal jugs and just measure carefully when using.<br />
Michael I change oil in over a dozen wings every year (Friends like my setup and tools) we all buy the blue jug T when it is on sale so I put at least 24 gal jugs in wings every year never had a problem..... It sure shifts nice about the first 1000 miles.... Don
 
We were just told by the dealer that Honda does not recommend straight synthetic (for any of their bikes). Of course hubby had just changed the oil and put it in on a friends recommendation <img src="images/smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="huh??" class="inlineimg" />. Good thing that we hadn't been riding yet!<br />
Not being much on the mechanics I only half paid attention to the explantion but I understand the oil also lubricates other things that don't like synthetic.
 
It is not the synthetic that it don't like it is the NON friction additives. I have been running Rotella in the Blue JUG for 4 years in my bike and many other have too. It is the best thing I did as far as shifting it is as smooth as silk. Do not use any oil that says better MPG or less friction , or has a little GREEN gear on the label . The additive that gives you better MPG is silicon based and will cause your clutch to slip . Synthetic is oil just like the DINO ( from dinosaurs ) stuff only made in a lab and it lasts 2 times longer and does not keep dirt in suspension as much . Anyone that told you not to use a Synthetic oil doesn't know what he is talking about.
 
John is correct. Synthetic is great oil you just need to be conscience of the additives as he said. Where it really shines is in the air cooled motors. It takes the heat alot better.
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>5thwheel</strong>
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<div class="message">We were just told by the dealer that Honda does not recommend straight synthetic (for any of their bikes). Of course hubby had just changed the oil and put it in on a friends recommendation <img src="images/smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="huh??" class="inlineimg" />. Good thing that we hadn't been riding yet!<br />
Not being much on the mechanics I only half paid attention to the explantion but I understand the oil also lubricates other things that don't like synthetic.</div>

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</div>Hate to say it............<b>find a new dealer (stealer)</b>..........then why would Honda sell syn. oil. I have been running <span class="highlight">Mobil</span> 1 (10W30) for years in my VTX. Just make sure it's not ENERGY CONSERVING on the jug.
 
I'll pass that on to hubby guys. Boy , he'll be cheesed :mad: off if he figures he dumped all that expensive stnthetic for nothing.
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>mpolissky</strong>
<a href="showthread.php?p=27502#post27502" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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<div class="message"><ol class="decimal"><li style="">Should switch to Synthetic? If yes,</li><li style="">What brand oil and filter combination should I choose?</li><li style="">Should I get full or semi synthetic and why?</li><li style="">Is there anything else I should pay attention to at 4K Mile service?</li></ol><br />
Thank you,</div>

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</div>1) Yes<br />
2) Mobil1 4t - Full synthetic<br />
3) be sure the coolant level is up, my 05 was down, I guess from the original fill up<br />
<br />
Synthetic is fine as long as this is <font color="RED"><font size="18">NOT</font></font> on the bottle<br />
<img src="http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:iZx_PTpfw1oOpM:http://www.bardahl.ca/images/API.GIF" border="0" alt="" />
 
1) Yes
2) Mobil1 4t - Full synthetic
3) be sure the coolant level is up, my 05 was down, I guess from the original fill up

Synthetic is fine as long as this is NOT on the bottle
images

Thanks, great summary!
 
get yourself some mobil 1 4t 10-40 syn racing oil, use a honda filter as none are really better, 4t is made to run in these bikes so you will not have any compatability issues! search myths about syn oil its an article/list of myths that even shop mechanics believe but are COMPLETELY FALSE! Best of luck, ride safe!
 
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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>John Luciano</strong>
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<div class="message">It is not the synthetic that it don't like it is the NON friction additives. I have been running Rotella in the Blue JUG for 4 years in my bike and many other have too. It is the best thing I did as far as shifting it is as smooth as silk. Do not use any oil that says better MPG or less friction , or has a little GREEN gear on the label . The additive that gives you better MPG is silicon based and will cause your clutch to slip . Synthetic is oil just like the DINO ( from dinosaurs ) stuff only made in a lab and it lasts 2 times longer and does not keep dirt in suspension as much . Anyone that told you not to use a Synthetic oil doesn't know what he is talking about.</div>

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</div>search MYTHS about syn oil, <span class="highlight">mobil</span> engineers wrote it, might change your thinking a bit, syn is not JUST DINO oil, not by a long shot!
 
TRIKERBOB69, after reading your post, I did a lot of reading about oils. I must said I learned quite a few things. I guess I will stop using Wesson Oil. LOL I have decided to go to the syn. oil next change.
 
TRIKERBOB69, after reading your post, I did a lot of reading about oils. I must said I learned quite a few things. I guess I will stop using Wesson Oil. LOL I have decided to go to the syn. oil next change.

no no,,,,the wesson is great, I sell rebuit gl1800 engines and recommend it to everyone that does not get the extended warranty:beerchug:
 
I found Wesson oil does seem to shorten the engine life, but there nothing like that fried chicken smell while cruising down the highway.

Can't beat the THIRD, I asked a number of my friends "what does 10-40 or 10-30 represent when you buy oil? Not one knew, not that I am a gear head but it really suprises me how peeps will recommend something and not really understand anything other than "it works for me" which is fine but when you tell them the second number is related to the old "w" designation standing for winter weather, they go oHHHH is that what that means!!!:no: thats just wrong, been poundin 2 wheelers all my life, gettin the THIRD 4/12 factory CSC conversion of my 08 Wing, then its off to Fairbanks for a shake down cruise:Flag: reminds me,,,,,BUY BEER AND CHICKEN FOR THE GAMES TONIGHT
 


Perhaps to late, but I change dino and Honda filter at 600 and 4,000 and switch to Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic at 8,000. Change synthetic and Honda filter every 8,000 miles after that. Have done this for years. Works for me. JMHO
 
The dealer and the manual both said to change oil and filter at 4000 miles. That seems like a long time to run a new engine before the first oil change ?<br />
<br />
are the Honda filters as good as the k & n's ?
 
The first oil change was at 600 miles. That got rid of shavings and other break-in deposits in your oil. Unless you ride in especially wet or very dusty conditions, 4000 miles is fine for the next change. <br />
<br />
I am not a fan of K&N. Many articles have been written about oil filters. Consensus is WIX is about as good as you can get with a fair price.<br />
<br />
<br />
As for the air filter I think the K&N is a really dumb choice. It takes 1.5 to two hours to take everything apart to get to the filter. For less than $20.00, it seems rather stupid to me to spend another two hours to wash the K&N filter, let it dry then apply oil to it. Makes a 2 hour job twice as long plus the initial cost of the K&N is about $55.00. Many people change their air filter at about 30,000 mile intervals.

You can chnage your air filter three times using the OEM filter and not be behind as far as $ savings goes. <br />
<br />
I have not met a mechanic yet that likes the K&N filter unless he is getting paid by the hour.
 

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