Linked brake system

Tomswede

New member
Jul 22, 2018
73
28
Lugoff, SC, USA
To My understanding, When you apply the rear brakes the front brakes also activates,

But if I only activate the front brakes, the rear brakes are not engaged

Is there a way to adjust this to where the front brake level will engage the rear brakes as well, ? Not sure if there is a reason for the factory design, pros or cons for having independent front brakes , On a 2 wheeler there is a significant handling issue based on the weight distribution and the lateral force , but on a Trike, I'm not sure

Any thoughts
 
To My understanding, When you apply the rear brakes the front brakes also activates,

But if I only activate the front brakes, the rear brakes are not engaged

Is there a way to adjust this to where the front brake level will engage the rear brakes as well, ? Not sure if there is a reason for the factory design, pros or cons for having independent front brakes , On a 2 wheeler there is a significant handling issue based on the weight distribution and the lateral force , but on a Trike, I'm not sure

Any thoughts

My 17 Tri's worked very well....Any reason why you would want to tinker with it...Just saying:Shrug:..
 
Not possible with out redesigning and re-plumbing the current brake lines. Rear brake applies the rear obviously but it also applies 2 of the pistons in each front caliper. The front brake activates the other 4 pistons in each front caliper. Use both the pedal and the lever all 6 pistons applied. Lever only , front brake only 4 pistons applied.
 
Even though I rarely put my feet down at stops on the trike, I still will use my front brake a lot of times just before I come to a complete stop, just like I had to do on 2 wheels. I like the fact the front brake lever only activates the front brake. Just like I think the way they have linked the front to activate some when the rear is applied works good also.
 
The system combines ABS with both front and rear electronically linked to achieve the best brake balance. Linked braking is activated at speeds over 20-25mph and works by using either just the front brake lever or rear brake. At speeds under 20mph the brakes will revert to working independently.
 
Trying to avoid using my right foot, or more exactly the right ankle , it has severe damage to it

On my 2019 Trike if I use the front brake lever and pull on it forcefully enough it will actuate the rear brakes also. I can feel it pulsing on the rear brake lever if i just rest my foot on it.

I expect you could put a second level on with something like this:

https://disabledmotorcycleriders.com/dualever/

I do not think it would be hard to plumb a brake line back to where the line comes out of the rear master cylinder and tie it in. You would of course need a dealer to bleed the air out of the system.
 
On my 2019 Trike if I use the front brake lever and pull on it forcefully enough it will actuate the rear brakes also. I can feel it pulsing on the rear brake lever if i just rest my foot on it.

I expect you could put a second level on with something like this:

https://disabledmotorcycleriders.com/dualever/

I do not think it would be hard to plumb a brake line back to where the line comes out of the rear master cylinder and tie it in. You would of course need a dealer to bleed the air out of the system.

I got to check that out, my main concern is that if I put just a little too much pressure on my front brakes, they lock up immediately, and the wheel skids, no abs as far as I know
 
Not possible with out redesigning and re-plumbing the current brake lines. Rear brake applies the rear obviously but it also applies 2 of the pistons in each front caliper. The front brake activates the other 4 pistons in each front caliper. Use both the pedal and the lever all 6 pistons applied. Lever only , front brake only 4 pistons applied.

Very nice description! BTW Tomswede; a lot depends on the year of your trike. Mine is a 2018... no ABS that year. I know this because there is no modulator beneath the right panel, also... I did have to make a quick stop and all three wheels locked and skidded. Remember, "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." I have read a lot about the brakes on HD trikes. I use equal pressure on both front and rear 99% of the time. Do what you're comfortable with and learn as you go. before you know it you'll be an expert too.
 
Trying to avoid using my right foot, or more exactly the right ankle , it has severe damage

to it

I got to check that out, my main concern is that if I put just a little too much pressure on my front brakes, they lock up immediately, and the wheel skids, no abs as far as I know

On the Trike the rear brakes are much more important in a hard braking situation than on a 2 wheeler. Even if you had ABS and the front tire did not lock up, it is not enough braking power for emergency braking.

I, too, have a bad right ankle/foot, and found that, for me, an extended and lowered brake lever makes it much easier on my ankle to use the rear brakes. Don't know if it will do the trick for you, might be worth looking at, at this LINK.

beforeafterbrakearm.jpg


Installed on my TG-

twincooled_brake_arm5.jpg


If you don't already, a Comfort Lift Kit™ will put a little more weight on the front tire, giving it a bit more traction, still not enough in a hard braking scenario to not need the rear brakes also, but every little bit helps.

Another thing that will give a bit more traction to front wheel braking...next time you need a front tire, go with the Avon Trike Tire, it is grippier.

Kevin
 
Very nice description! BTW Tomswede; a lot depends on the year of your trike. Mine is a 2018... no ABS that year. I know this because there is no modulator beneath the right panel, also... I did have to make a quick stop and all three wheels locked and skidded. Remember, "For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." I have read a lot about the brakes on HD trikes. I use equal pressure on both front and rear 99% of the time. Do what you're comfortable with and learn as you go. before you know it you'll be an expert too.

Couldn't agree more, there is no substitute or better teacher than experience, thanks
 
On the Trike the rear brakes are much more important in a hard braking situation than on a 2 wheeler. Even if you had ABS and the front tire did not lock up, it is not enough braking power for emergency braking.

I, too, have a bad right ankle/foot, and found that, for me, an extended and lowered brake lever makes it much easier on my ankle to use the rear brakes. Don't know if it will do the trick for you, might be worth looking at, at this LINK.

beforeafterbrakearm.jpg


Installed on my TG-

twincooled_brake_arm5.jpg


If you don't already, a Comfort Lift Kit™ will put a little more weight on the front tire, giving it a bit more traction, still not enough in a hard braking scenario to not need the rear brakes also, but every little bit helps.

Another thing that will give a bit more traction to front wheel braking...next time you need a front tire, go with the Avon Trike Tire, it is grippier.

Kevin

Yep, got your lift kit, I'll check out the extended brake arm, thanks
 
4 must have adds.

Heated grips

extended (meaning angled down) brake pedal

extended floor boards

replace stock handle bars.

All add add to the comfort of the ride IMHO..
 
Info on HD New Braking System.

Just thought having the termology for the types of braking systems would be useful. Can start a new thread if it would be useful/

This is for the 2020 models; however ABS, DSCS and Traction Control is also on the 2019 models.

General information and discussion about the newest tech HD is offering. RDRS is much more than just traction control (see even more details in the link at the bottom). "Reflex™ Defensive Rider Systems (RDRS) is a new collection of technology designed to match motorcycle performance to available traction during acceleration, deceleration and braking. The systems are designed to aid the rider in controlling the vehicle while accelerating and braking in a straight line or while in a turn. A rider may find the systems most helpful when riding in adverse road conditions and in urgent situations. The systems are electronic and utilize the latest electronic brake controls and powertrain technology. The features of RDRS are bundled together except where noted. RDRS features are standard on all 2020 LiveWire™, CVO™, Police and Trike models and optional on all 2020 Touring models in the U.S. (except Electra Glide® Standard Model)."

  1. ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS)
    1. Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) is designed to prevent the wheels from locking under braking and helps the rider maintain control when braking in a straight-line, urgent situation.
    2. ABS is standard on MY20 LiveWire™, CVO™, Touring, Police, Trike and select Softail® models; and optional on all MY20 Street™, Sportster® and remaining Softail® models.
  2. CORNERING ENHANCED ABS (C-ABS)
    1. Cornering Enhanced ABS (C-ABS) is a variant of ABS that is designed to balance braking and cornering loads at the tire contact patch while under combined cornering and braking.
    2. C-ABS is standard on MY20 LiveWire™, CVO™, Police and Trike models and optional on all MY20 Touring models in the U.S. (except FLHT)
  3. ELECTRONIC LINKED BRAKING (ELB)
    1. Electronic Linked Braking (ELB) applies braking effort to both wheels when the rider uses either the hand lever (front) or foot pedal (rear) brake control, which can help riders achieve better braking performance.
    2. ELB is standard on all MY20 Touring and Trike models.
  4. CORNERING ENHANCED ELECTRONIC LINKED BRAKING (C-ELB)
    1. Cornering Enhanced Electronic Linked Braking (C-ELB) takes into account the motorcycle lean angle or Trike lateral acceleration. C-ELB will alter the proportioning of brake pressure between the front and rear brakes when braking while cornering in an attempt to improve the ability of the motorcycle to maintain the rider’s intended path.
    2. C-ELB is standard on all MY20 CVO™, Police and Trike models and optional on all MY20 Touring models in the U.S. (except FLHT).
  5. CORNERING ENHANCED TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM (C-TCS)
    1. Traction control is designed to keep the rear wheel from "spinning out" when the motorcycle is accelerating while leaning, and enhances rider control and confidence, especially in wet weather.
    2. C-TCS is standard on all MY20 LiveWire™, CVO™, Police and Trike models and optional on all MY20 Touring models in the U.S. (except FLHT)
  6. DRAG-TORQUE SLIP CONTROL SYSTEM (DSCS)
    1. Drag-Torque Slip Control (DSCS) is designed to reduce excessive rear-wheel slip under deceleration, which typically occurs when the rider makes an abrupt down-shift gear change or decelerates on wet or slippery road surfaces.
    2. DSCS is standard on all MY20 CVO™, Police and Trike models and optional on all MY20 Touring models in the U.S. (except FLHT).
  7. CORNERING ENHANCED DRAG-TORQUE SLIP CONTROL SYSTEM (C-DSCS)
    1. On models equipped with C-DSCS the action of DSCS may be tailored when cornering, based on detected lean angle.
    2. C-DSCS is standard on all MY20 LiveWire™ models.
  8. VEHICLE HOLD CONTROL (VHC)
    1. The primary function of VHC is to use brake pressure to keep the motorcycle from rolling, making it easier to ride away when starting on a hill, a bridge or a parking ramp.
    2. VHC is not intended as a substitute for a parking brake in any situation.
    3. This feature is standard on MY20 CVO™ and Police models and optional on all MY20 Touring models in the U.S. (except FLHT).
  9. TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM (TPMS)
    1. TPMS alerts the rider to low tire air pressure. Maintaining proper tire air pressure is important both for vehicle performance and tire life.
    2. This feature is standard on MY20 CVO™ and Police models and optional on all MY20 Touring models in the U.S. (except FLHT).

(source: https://www.harley-davidson.com/us/e...er-system.html)
 
Yep, got your lift kit, I'll check out the extended brake arm, thanks

Ok, so I got the extended brake arm in the mail, as usual, DK sent it to me super fast ,

installing it was a little frustrating as the exhaust pipe is in the way , then there is a little cotterpin on the inside that must be removed to disconnect the arm from the brake module

removing the rubber pad was also a bit of a struggle, but after about an hour it was back together and ready for a test ride, well worth the dollars and labor, much easier on my poor ankle, thanks for the advice
 

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