Ongoing 2019 Tri Glide Build-Out w/ lots of photos, videos and observations

DK Custom Products said:
Next up was installing a 1.5" Tank Lift with a Deluxe Option, some Cooling Deflector Wings, and removing the left side thigh protector.

(see why I remove the left side thigh protector in #1 in the Report at this LINK)

Kevin
Click to expand...

Not sure if anyone has tried this yet, so figured I'd share what I did with the left side deflector since it makes perfect sense to remove it for the reasons you talk about.

Some people have small complaints about the felt heat (when stopped) with the deflector removed. So what I did was trim it down so there was still a bit of a lip sticking out, about 2-inches wide at the very front and narrows as it goes towards the back or bottom. My thinking was if I could deflect the hot air a little bit further out, there would be less heat coming straight up unto my thigh. This lip does help with that, but still doesn't restrict the hot air from blowing out.

IMG_1316.JPG

I also thought it might help the left side look not so naked with the deflector removed. Not so much. The remaining piece of the deflector is so small there really isn't much difference in how it looks from the side. But it does seem to work for me.

IMG_1315.JPG

Not the smoothest looking trim job, but I think with a Dremel tool it could be cleaned up.
 
GoSlo said:
Not sure if anyone has tried this yet, so figured I'd share what I did with the left side deflector since it makes perfect sense to remove it for the reasons you talk about.

Some people have small complaints about the felt heat (when stopped) with the deflector removed. So what I did was trim it down so there was still a bit of a lip sticking out, about 2-inches wide at the very front and narrows as it goes towards the back or bottom. My thinking was if I could deflect the hot air a little bit further out, there would be less heat coming straight up unto my thigh. This lip does help with that, but still doesn't restrict the hot air from blowing out.

View attachment 71043

I also thought it might help the left side look not so naked with the deflector removed. Not so much. The remaining piece of the deflector is so small there really isn't much difference in how it looks from the side. But it does seem to work for me.

View attachment 71042

Not the smoothest looking trim job, but I think with a Dremel tool it could be cleaned up.
Click to expand...

Nice! I may end up doing the same.

Kevin
 
DK Custom Products said:
Nice! I may end up doing the same.

Kevin
Click to expand...

The could be made wider at the top if you want. Not sure I can explain this very well, but a good way to get the cut to follow the shape of the deflector is to angle it so there is a reflection from an overhead light. The reflected light on the deflector is very narrow and gives you a nice 'guide' to follow for marking before you cut. If you want the lip wider or narrower, just tip the deflector until you get the reflection where you want it. I then took a magic marker and carefully drew a line that followed the reflection. Unfortunately, my cutting wasn't as accurate, but it can be cleaned up pretty easily.
 
graygoat said:
I thought about drilling a row of half inch holes along the lower edge of the deflector to allow air to move out easier but still maintain the deflector part to keep the heat off the rider. Have not done it yet, though.
Click to expand...

I happened to have had a spare left side deflector and tried drilling a bunch of 1/8" holes across the entire face to do the same thing. I think it would have worked, but it looked like crap because the holes weren't spaced evenly and trying to get the holes so they were positioned to 'flow' with the shape was really hard. I got them all drilled but never put it on because of how bad it looked. Then I thought about cutting the center piece out and putting a heavy black screen type of material on the back side. Never did try it, but it seemed like it might work (Kevin - there's an idea for a new product for you to develop!).

Your idea of making larger holes should be easier and look better. Let us know how it works out if you decide to try it.
 
I posted about this strange behavior previously, and have since done a bit more research. To recap-

********************

....When riding straight and doing a sharp maneuver (turning into a driveway, or avoiding something in the road) AND there is no braking involved, everything is as normal.

....When riding straight and doing a sharp maneuver (turning into a driveway, or avoiding something in the road) AND applying front brakes only, everything is as normal.

....When riding straight and doing a sharp maneuver (turning into a driveway, or avoiding something in the road) AND applying rear brakes (with or without front brakes), some strange things happen-

-It starts turning, as normal, then all of a sudden the front tire feels like it is "plowing" a little and the trike attempts to straighten out, overriding (to some degree) the input from the rider to turn.

I am not talking about stunt maneuvers...just turning into a driveway or avoiding a pothole, while using the rear brakes.

*****************

Since then I have eliminated the TCS...it does it when the TCS is active or deactivated.

Another thing that is interesting, when Devin and I rode 2 up, it is much less pronounced...like 80% gone.

Devin rode it himself and he thought it may be the portioning in the linked brakes. At first he thought it may be that the front brakes come on too hard for the first bit, then off some.

I don't think that is it, because even if I "stab" the front brakes to simulate them coming on really hard, it does not try and straighten the front wheel.

Only when in a turn and the rear brakes being applied somewhat aggressively, that is when you get the strange plowing feel and the front wheel actually tries to straighten out some.

Another thought he had is that it is the rear tire brakes being applied unequally, in an attempt to prevent any rolling/high siding. BUT, that would not account for the front tire having that plowing feeling.

Not really sure what it is, but I suspect HD will change this in the future. When it first happened to me it was quite a surprise, but I did not panic. Instead, I tried to replicate it, and found I can replicate it at will.

However, someone, sometime, is going to get surprised by it, then over-correct, and then bad things will happen.

I predict that within in a year or two, whatever computer programming is causing this action will be reprogrammed so that the handlebars stay pointed where the rider points them, rather than trying to turn a different direction.

In the meantime, anyone with a '19, when you do your emergency braking practice in a big open parking lot (I hope everyone does that periodically) add doing a 45-90 degree turn (like going into a driveway) and applying the rear brake somewhat aggressively at the same time. That way you become familiar with what happens so that if ever in a true emergency you are not caught off-guard.

Someone asked me earlier today, why would I ever need to apply the rear brakes aggressively while turning?

What if you're going a bit faster than you thought when you start turning into a driveway...that is the time to scrub off some speed to finish negotiating the turn into the driveway.

Another example is if xyz road debris shows up in front of you (like the ladder that flew out of a pick up truck 100 yards ahead and is cartwheeling on the road right in front of you), that is definitely a time to swerve out it's path and to brake to get your speed down for any other unknown eventualities.

Be safe, practice your emergency stops, and for those with '19, I recommend becoming familiar with this strange behavior so as to avoid any unintended consequences.

Kevin
 
Is it because of the linked brakes and ABS. When you apply the rear brakes and the hydraulic pressure is a little more to the front brakes than the rear? Maybe HD needs to restrict the hydraulic pressure going to the front brakes.
 
I know this maybe off subject. But, since I have some of the greatest minds looking at this thread. I will ask my question.

I know that:

The EITMS will activate when all of 4 conditions are met:

1. Engine temp is greater than 287 degrees F.

2. Twist grip throttle is in the idle position.

3. Vehicle speed is under 1 MPH.

4. Engine RPM is under 1200 RPM.

I have installed on my Tri Glide:

1. Might Mites

2. Cooling Wings

3. Jagg Oiler Cooler

4. Oil Filter Relocation

1) My question is why is my EITMS being activated, when I stop at stoplight for less than 30 seconds.

2) Why is engine temperature reaching 287 degrees or more with the Mighty Mites on and running continuously?

It was my understanding that installing all of the above would keep the engine temps down. This is happening in 85 degree weather.

Thanks for your patience. But I am kind at my wits after spending considerable amount money to cool this engine.

Regards,

Nuc
 
Last edited:
nucseal said:
I know this maybe off subject. But, since I have some of the greatest minds looking at this thread. I will ask my question.

I know that:

The EITMS will activate when all of 4 conditions are met:

1. Engine temp is greater than 287 degrees F.

2. Twist grip throttle is in the idle position.

3. Vehicle speed is under 1 MPH.

4. Engine RPM is under 1200 RPM.

I have installed on my Tri Glide:

1. Might Mites

2. Cooling Wings

3. Jagg Oiler Cooler

4. Oil Filter Relocation

1) My question is why is my EITMS being activated, when I stop at stoplight for less than 30 seconds.

2) Why is engine temperature reaching 287 degrees or more with the Mighty Mites on and running continuously?

It was my understanding that installing all of the above would keep the engine temps down. This is happening in 85 degree weather.

Thanks for your patience. But I am kind at my wits after spending considerable amount money to cool this engine.

Regards,

Nuc
Click to expand...

Not sure what year your TG is but the owner's manual for my 2018 TG states that the temperature is related to ambient air temp not engine temp. And it does not state what the amient air temp threshold is?? EITMS initially did depend on engine temp. I know it changed to ambient air temp but not sure when or what model year. If you got your info from a search of websites (I just checked Fuel Moto for example) they may not have the correct information as relates to your model. Information should be available in your owner's manual. I also checked the service manual but strangely I could not find anything about it there.

Hope this helps.

Added: I actually like EITMS to kick in as it raises the idle speed from 850 to 950-1000 and I think the motor is smoother at a bit higher idle speed.
 
nucseal said:
What is the difference between the air filled and oil filled engine oil temp gauge. Which do you recommend?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Gold Nugget said:
most "all" the oil fill gauges I've experienced have leaked. (But) the air is prone to condensation, When I order mine it will be the non-oil filled.
Click to expand...

I do not recommend either of these. I do not know how they hold up. I just know the HD digital units don't hold up for me, so I am giving these a try.

In reading reviews I saw a lot of the oil filled ones were leaking, so I got an air filled one.

Kevin
 
Rmitchell55 said:
Is it because of the linked brakes and ABS. When you apply the rear brakes and the hydraulic pressure is a little more to the front brakes than the rear? Maybe HD needs to restrict the hydraulic pressure going to the front brakes.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is a thought we had. But it does not do it when just the front brakes are applied. But perhaps it is a combination of the front brakes and the unequal application of rear brakes?

Don't know...but it is very strange.

Kevin
 
nucseal said:
I know this maybe off subject. But, since I have some of the greatest minds looking at this thread. I will ask my question.

I know that:

The EITMS will activate when all of 4 conditions are met:

1. Engine temp is greater than 287 degrees F.

2. Twist grip throttle is in the idle position.

3. Vehicle speed is under 1 MPH.

4. Engine RPM is under 1200 RPM.

I have installed on my Tri Glide:

1. Might Mites

2. Cooling Wings

3. Jagg Oiler Cooler

4. Oil Filter Relocation

1) My question is why is my EITMS being activated, when I stop at stoplight for less than 30 seconds.

2) Why is engine temperature reaching 287 degrees or more with the Mighty Mites on and running continuously?

It was my understanding that installing all of the above would keep the engine temps down. This is happening in 85 degree weather.

Thanks for your patience. But I am kind at my wits after spending considerable amount money to cool this engine.

Regards,

Nuc
Click to expand...

ultrafxr said:
Not sure what year your TG is but the owner's manual for my 2018 TG states that the temperature is related to ambient air temp not engine temp. And it does not state what the amient air temp threshold is?? EITMS initially did depend on engine temp. I know it changed to ambient air temp but not sure when or what model year. If you got your info from a search of websites (I just checked Fuel Moto for example) they may not have the correct information as relates to your model. Information should be available in your owner's manual. I also checked the service manual but strangely I could not find anything about it there.

Hope this helps.

Added: I actually like EITMS to kick in as it raises the idle speed from 850 to 950-1000 and I think the motor is smoother at a bit higher idle speed.
Click to expand...

Yes, what Jerry said.

I think it was 2014 when they added that the EITMS will turn on when ambient temp is either 80 or 85. This means that even if engine temp is at an ideal 210, but it is 85 degrees outside, the EITMS will kick in.

On a Twin Cam the uneven running of the EITMS is irritating, so I just have it turned off. It is not quite so obnoxious on an M8, but I see no reason to have it activated on the M8 either.

Kevin
 
DK Custom Products said:
I do not recommend either of these. I do not know how they hold up. I just know the HD digital units don't hold up for me, so I am giving these a try.

In reading reviews I saw a lot of the oil filled ones were leaking, so I got an air filled one.

Kevin
Click to expand...

Fingers crossed that the newer digital version under p/n 62700005A is not plagued with the problems of the past. Earlier this year I bought one from Surdyke based on Harley's new description; "New and improved "capacitive" level sensing technology provides the highest degree of accuracy and durability." Hope I didn't just end up falling for the hype. Time will tell...:blush:

I really like the Analog Gauges.....they just weren't on my radar then.
 
ultrafxr said:
Not sure what year your TG is but the owner's manual for my 2018 TG states that the temperature is related to ambient air temp not engine temp. And it does not state what the amient air temp threshold is?? EITMS initially did depend on engine temp. I know it changed to ambient air temp but not sure when or what model year. If you got your info from a search of websites (I just checked Fuel Moto for example) they may not have the correct information as relates to your model. Information should be available in your owner's manual. I also checked the service manual but strangely I could not find anything about it there.

Hope this helps.

Added: I actually like EITMS to kick in as it raises the idle speed from 850 to 950-1000 and I think the motor is smoother at a bit higher idle speed.
Click to expand...

Sorry, its a 2016 Tri Glide

Nuc
 
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