2001 GW Lehman Driveshaft removel.

T

Tang62

Aug 23, 2018
14
7
Tacoma
Could anyone tell me where to find the info on removing the driveshaft. The forward U-Joint is done. And have no idea as to how to access the front. My search for info has been in vain. A dealer ship or shop is out of the question.

Yeah I should have gotten a shop manual before now. Figured I changed them on a older Bronco. So whats the big deal.:xzqxz:

My Thanks to all of you.

Throwing out a guess here, the front of the drive shaft ( as it attaches to the xmsn output shaft) regardless of trike conversion mfr. on a GW would still have the same set up ....OEM?
 
Last edited:
Tang62 said:
Thank you Jack. Until I get my hands on a service manual I'm still at a loss as to backing off the front bolts.

Also any recommendations on THE best replacement U-Joints. No need to go through this anytime in the near future.
Click to expand...

I like Spicer joints, yo can get them with a grease fitting in the bearing cap easier to lube

1358630958_7260SeriesSpicerU-Joint....Greasefittingincap_7260GRU.jpg
 
If it’s the front u joint going into out put shaft at motor I’m thinking the standard 1800 goldwing u joint is used on Lehman conversion. I do know that 1500 goldwing with Lehman conversion used goldwing u joint at motor and ford u joint at rear of drive shaft:wave4:
 
I'm always greatful for information.

trikeman said:
If it’s the front u joint going into out put shaft at motor I’m thinking the standard 1800 goldwing u joint is used on Lehman conversion. I do know that 1500 goldwing with Lehman conversion used goldwing u joint at motor and ford u joint at rear of drive shaft:wave4:
Click to expand...

So I'm going to make an out of myself. Do you know if in fact the front is held to the splined shaft by four bolts. As I've seen a video showing as much. But that was on a 1500. Not a 1800. And the 1500 seemed to have room from the outside to run a 1/4 extension and socket in there. Don't see that happening or I need new glasses.

:cxtv:
 
Monarch I & Monarch II driveshaft removal

Scott,

Over the years, past owners have substituted parts on their trikes that were not authorized or approved by the original manufacturer. In many cases out of necessity, but in most cases they were being thrifty.:Shrug:

If you have a 'stock and unmolested' Lehman Trike conversion on your GL1800 Goldwing that was built before August 2004, you have a Monarch I with drum brakes.

If you have a 'stock and unmolested' Lehman Trike conversion on your GL1800 Goldwing that was built AFTER August 2004, you more than likely have a Monarch II with DISC brakes.

The Monarch I had 2 different style driveshafts and the later model Monarch I had a specific Lehman driveshaft that is not produced anymore. The earlier style driveshaft can and is being used as a replacement for the later with slight modification to the swingarm tube.

Why did Lehman do this ???????:Shrug: I don't know !!!!!

The front yoke of the Monarch I is essentially a Valkyrie front yoke.

https://mjtrikes.com/shop/index.php...id=230&zenid=857f85a279ca299d89bc99dab412795f

The front yoke is a slip design and uses no fasteners or clamps to hold it on the output shaft of the transmission and sometimes the front yoke will become stuck on the output shaft of the transmission, accessing it from the engine RT side panel behind the mastercylinder, with a long punch you should be able to dislodge it. Reaching into the driveshaft tube of the swingarm, you should be able to remove it.

Once removed, the driveshaft must be pre-assembled (properly phased) before installation, period.

DSCN1124_02.JPG


The front yoke of a Monarch II (until 2012) is the OEM GL1800 driveshaft. If you are unable to remove the front shaft from a Monarch II, the same method should apply.
 
CrystalPistol said:
LHM .... They sure is pretty!

Is the one no longer made the one with the splined shaft that fits into splined hole of rear yoke? Just curious. I carry the welded (cut off oem drive shaft, fitted / welded into rear yoke) set up as a spare now.

https://www.triketalk.com/forum/thr...Driveshaft-info-may-help-someone-else-somehow
Click to expand...

Actually, The only one still made is the one that is zip-tied. The splined (both ends) shafts disappeared in 2012 and the special made front yoke (made from a GL1800 driveshaft) was never sent to dealers as a replacement. We always used a Valkyrie yoke and still do as a replacement.
 
Seems to be a unmolested Monarch 1

Lee H. Mann said:
Scott,

Over the years, past owners have substituted parts on their trikes that were not authorized or approved by the original manufacturer. In many cases out of necessity, but in most cases they were being thrifty.:Shrug:

If you have a 'stock and unmolested' Lehman Trike conversion on your GL1800 Goldwing that was built before August 2004, you have a Monarch I with drum brakes.

If you have a 'stock and unmolested' Lehman Trike conversion on your GL1800 Goldwing that was built AFTER August 2004, you more than likely have a Monarch II with DISC brakes.

The Monarch I had 2 different style driveshafts and the later model Monarch I had a specific Lehman driveshaft that is not produced anymore. The earlier style driveshaft can and is being used as a replacement for the later with slight modification to the swingarm tube.

Why did Lehman do this ???????:Shrug: I don't know !!!!!

The front yoke of the Monarch I is essentially a Valkyrie front yoke.

https://mjtrikes.com/shop/index.php...id=230&zenid=857f85a279ca299d89bc99dab412795f

The front yoke is a slip design and uses no fasteners or clamps to hold it on the output shaft of the transmission and sometimes the front yoke will become stuck on the output shaft of the transmission, accessing it from the engine RT side panel behind the mastercylinder, with a long punch you should be able to dislodge it. Reaching into the driveshaft tube of the swingarm, you should be able to remove it.

Once removed, the driveshaft must be pre-assembled (properly phased) before installation, period.

DSCN1124_02.JPG


The front yoke of a Monarch II (until 2012) is the OEM GL1800 driveshaft. If you are unable to remove the front shaft from a Monarch II, the same method should apply.
Click to expand...

Thank you Jim. It would seem to be the Monarch 1 with the drum brakes. Hope one day to replace the drums with Disc's.

From what I see of the picture it's not bolted? Merely slips on and the spring keeps the coupling forward. This may be the first time I've not cussed the engineers. Also, would it be a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the splines instead of bearing grease?

Your a great help and I'm sure to be calling your shop for parts later.
 
Tang62 said:
Thank you Jim. It would seem to be the Monarch 1 with the drum brakes. Hope one day to replace the drums with Disc's.
Click to expand...

Why? Those drums will stay dry in heaviest rain & splashes, unless you ford creeks, rice patties, rivers, and such. I adjust mine up each Spring and that is good all season. Dependable stopping, no surprises. Shoes also last and last.....

Tang62 said:
From what I see of the picture it's not bolted? Merely slips on and the spring keeps the coupling forward. This may be the first time I've not cussed the engineers. Also, would it be a good idea to use anti-seize compound on the splines instead of bearing grease?
Click to expand...
Works well, I agree …

... and I just smear inside of front yoke with what I use on splines of my '85 …

… ie: Valvoline HD Ford Spec WB Grease fortified with Moly, VV-632 gets a 1lb can. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ulti-purpose-ford-grease-1-lb-vv632/7070007-P
 
Lee H. Mann said:
Actually, The only one still made is the one that is zip-tied. The splined (both ends) shafts disappeared in 2012 and the special made front yoke (made from a GL1800 driveshaft) was never sent to dealers as a replacement. We always used a Valkyrie yoke and still do as a replacement.
Click to expand...

I wonder which was stronger … the splined or welded shaft / rear yoke?

I'm not sure where that 1800 based joint originated, it was just in the box.
 
CrystalPistol said:
I wonder which was stronger … the splined or welded shaft / rear yoke?

I'm not sure where that 1800 based joint originated, it was just in the box.
Click to expand...

During the first run of the Monarch I Lehman asked the dealers to return the original GL1800 propeller shaft to the Factory as a core.

Lehman would then modify the original GL1800 propeller shaft to make their own front U-joint.

I think that the expense of the new u-joint from Honda "Canada" was the driving force behind that move.
 
Lee H. Mann said:
During the first run of the Monarch I Lehman asked the dealers to return the original GL1800 propeller shaft to the Factory as a core.

Lehman would then modify the original GL1800 propeller shaft to make their own front U-joint.

I think that the expense of the new u-joint from Honda "Canada" was the driving force behind that move.
Click to expand...

Thank you, that made huge sense.

Thought I lost it, but I found it again in another box. It fits a 1500 drive shaft well. It'll make a good spare, it's good'n'tight, not woreout'n'floppy.

Looking at it closer, the splines in driveshaft end are "flush" machined to the very end, those in the front are recessed as it's a stock yoke. Overall length is a hair longer that a GL1500 joint, but then it's intended for a 1800.
 
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