Brakes Front and Rear

[Gorilla]

William the owners manual advises on how to remove the font wheel. After that getting to the pads is a piece of cake. On the rears when you go to push the pistons in they turn in. You will need a tool from Napa only about 10 to 15 that is used with a 3/8ths drive to allow you to turn the pistons as you push. Good luck

 

[admin7]

Ok! thanks Gorilla, whats the tool I need? and what does the 10-15 mean a little confused don't want to mess anything up.

William

 

[Gorilla]

thats the cost. any parts counter guy will know what tool you are looking for. just say the cube that is used to turn the pistons in.

 

[pmar6004]

Ok! thanks Gorilla, whats the tool I need? and what does the 10-15 mean a little confused don't want to mess anything up.

William

Here's what the tool looks like that Ted mentioned. They can be had at most any auto parts store. I might add that when you install the tool against the caliper's piston, you turn the piston counter clockwise, while pushing inward, for the left rear brake caliper and clockwise, while pushing inward, when working on the right rear brake caliper. Be sure to open the caliper's brake fluid bleed valve 1/4 to 1/2 turn BEFORE attempting to move the caliper's piston. Keep a check on the master brake fluid reservoir so that it does not get empty of brake fluid. Otherwise you might get air in your Stallion's brake system, (not a good thing). Good luck!!ThumbUp

Daydreamer

 

[admin7]

Hey! everyone, is it hard to put the front brake pads on a 2008 Stallion? Is the caliper a one piece unit or 2 piece with it having two rotors? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

William

 

[Gorilla]

The instructions for removing the front wheel are in the owners manual. After that continue on your own to remove the brake caliper then the pins. You do not take the caliper apart just remove the pads push the pistons back into the caliper and add new pads. Repeat on other caliper. Reverse for putting back together. Its not much harder then on my Harley. Reset the brakes pads before you go off riding down the street. Make sure you have brakes. Also check your fluid.

 

[The Stallion Guy]

The instructions for removing the front wheel are in the owners manual. After that continue on your own to remove the brake caliper then the pins. You do not take the caliper apart just remove the pads push the pistons back into the caliper and add new pads. Repeat on other caliper. Reverse for putting back together. Its not much harder then on my Harley. Reset the brakes pads before you go off riding down the street. Make sure you have brakes. Also check your fluid.

There is no need to remove the front wheel to change the brakes...

All you need to do is

1. Loosen the front heim joints completely from bar that holds the caliper bracket straight.

2.

Remove the bar that you just loosened (Leaving the heim joints attached to the bike.)

3. Remove the two Caliper slide pins.

4. Roll the caliper bracket forward so you can remove the billet caliper from the bike.

5. Leave all brake lines attached. DO NOT break the lines loose, otherwise you will have to bleed the brakes.

6. Remove old pads, and install new ones. (The old clips should be able to be re-used.)

7. Make sure to use break caliper grease on the back of the brake pads, and use slide pin grease in the slide pins

8. Use C-clamp and flat bar to push pistons back into caliper.

9.

Install the items in reverse order to complete the installation!

Hope this helps! pepper

Total time for an inexperienced person should be around 45-60 minutes...

 

[Gorilla]

Great Info TU

 

[The Stallion Guy]

Anytime!!ThumbUp

 

[Roadbuz]

Front emd "shimmy"

Howdy all,

Some of you will recall, I had to replace the outer bearings and inner grease seals awhile back on my front wheel and everything was fine for a few months. I had some surgeries, have been recovering and unable to ride. My wife has been riding our trike off and on and now says the front end shakes and shimmies when she lightly depresses the brakes, but otherwise it drives fine and only has that problem when she lightly presses the brakes.....from her description...

1) could one or both of the front rotors somehow become warped ?

2) Or the pinch boles have loosened ?

The front wheel is also being coated with brake dust......what is your take on this ?

If this IS the problem, of what vehicle do the rotors come off, The rear 2012 FJ?

Thanks Ron

 

[Roadbuz]

One more

Zook thinks the Triple trees are not tight and need resetting?

Could this be the problem and if so how is this done ?

Thanks again

 

[Gorilla]

Zook is usually right about these things. Ours did something like that but it was more then loose the lower steering head bearing had rusted out. Re-placed both bearings and completely packed the steering head with grease. Doing it was just like any other bike steering head service just on a bigger scale. I would check that area first before looking at other possibilities

 

[Roadbuz]

Thanks...but I'm confused

My confusion is.........how are brake assemblies made in 2008. (my Stallion) , use ones not designed until 2012 ? For, in this instance, the front pads are off a 2012 Toyota FJ, (rear brakes) and the rear brakes for my 2008 Stallion come off a 2010 Ford 500 ? Can someone please explain this ? What assemblies originally came on my '08 ? Thanks again, Ron

 

[Papa Zook]

Zook thinks the Triple trees are not tight and need resetting?

Could this be the problem and if so how is this done ?

Thanks again

On the Stallion, it can be one of several different problems. Ted knows more about the Stallion than I do even though I was a dealer for a short while. He's the MAN on Stallion fixes.

 

[Gorilla]

My confusion is.........how are brake assemblies made in 2008. (my Stallion) , use ones not designed until 2012 ? For, in this instance, the front pads are off a 2012 Toyota FJ, (rear brakes) and the rear brakes for my 2008 Stallion come off a 2010 Ford 500 ? Can someone please explain this ? What assemblies originally came on my '08 ? Thanks again, Ron

Okay here we go. When you are looking for what works, Stallion designed their system based on what was available from the manufactures. What application that they choose is not known. But what was being used in 2006 or 2007 when it was layed out maybe being used on something different by the manufacturers in later years. The brakes from the Ford 500 where being used on something else back in 2006/2007. But someone has identified that the 2010 is using it. That system was not designed in 2010 but sometime earlier and more than likely then not is was on a different car. Design teams use available systems quite a bit if an already available system works saves a lot of money. The Stallion front calibers I have been told were made for the Stallion. By whom is unknown. Someone took a used pad and compared it to what was available and found that the rear pad from the FJ was usable. It appears that the caliper is different but the pads are the same or at least close enough.

When one is looking for parts substitution you invariable end up using a lot of parts that are close not necessarily exact replacement. Stallion has seen fit not to share what they used for parts. They are in business to sell you parts. Most parts are still available from them. As owners of a vehicle that is no longer being built we need to identify parts or substitute parts to keep our ride going when parts are not available from Stallion.

I hope I have answered your question. We take a part into a parts store like NAPA and the counter person will says that looks like it came from (whatever) May not be what it was used on when Stallion selected it for their use.

 

[Roadbuz]

Brakes fromt and rear

Gentleman,

These are our preliminary findings....so far...found the left front shoes (inner most was worn more than the outer).
The right shoes are both worn evenly and lightly. Spun the wheel while utilizing a mike to gauge their evenness and they look true and not warped. All four of the shoes have stress fractures, most likely due to heat. My mechanic are going to try to FIRSTLY, replace all four pads, clean the calipers, grease the pads and pins nd use anti-seize grease on the shaft. The steering box and seals look good (not rusted).


Is it a true statement..TMC HAS new rotors and if so does anyone know their cost? Has anyone found comparable rotors off another bike or vehicle which can be substituted for those we have presently ?

Thanks for all help and suggestions from all concerned !!!!

Ron

 

[trikervet]

Gentleman,

These are our preliminary findings....so far...found the left front shoes (inner most was worn more than the outer).
The right shoes are both worn evenly and lightly. Spun the wheel while utilizing a mike to gauge their evenness and they look true and not warped. All four of the shoes have stress fractures, most likely due to heat. My mechanic are going to try to FIRSTLY, replace all four pads, clean the calipers, grease the pads and pins nd use anti-seize grease on the shaft. The steering box and seals look good (not rusted).


Is it a true statement..TMC HAS new rotors and if so does anyone know their cost? Has anyone found comparable rotors off another bike or vehicle which can be substituted for those we have presently ?

Thanks for all help and suggestions from all concerned !!!!

Ron

Oddoman posted this back on 7 July:

Yeah I was just checking....TBMS said 95.00 each....I'm gonna need some for sure....Dave oddoman oddo
#667
2010 Stallion
Effinghaam, SC

 

[Roadbuz]

THANKS A MILLION, DAVE FOR THE INFO !!!!! If what we are trying does not work, our next step will be to order

them from Texas....

** just a note to all our new members......Stallion and others....I have been on many other group sites such as

this one, but the people here are the ABSOLUTE best...everyone here always does their outmost to help, in any

way possible. Consider yourself BLESSED to have found us******
Ron

P,S, My mechanic just came in to show me photos of the welded bolt which is in the black housing to which the zerk bar and shock are attached. The welded bolt which holds the zerk bar to it, is stripped out, When the brake is applied that bar wobbles, We may have found the culprit. When he has time he will drill it out, retap and die it and reweld another bolt in it's place.....fingers crossed. In another week or two, I will be able to get out of this bed and "hopefully" be able to, at least ride behind our refurbished Stallion. When I have a chance, I will upload the photo of the above mentioned bolt, as I am beginning to drift off because of the morphine I am forced to take.
Thx again evrone.

 

[Roadbuz]

Morning All,

This is the photo my mechanic took of the stripped bolt, which is welded to the black bracket, on

which the hem joint is secured. As I said earlier, we hope this is the cause of the shimming of the front wheel when

the brakes are applied. Does this look like the potential problem to any of you ? Everything else looks ok.

Ron

 

[trikervet]

Morning All,

This is the photo my mechanic took of the stripped bolt, which is welded to the black bracket, on

which the hem joint is secured. As I said earlier, we hope this is the cause of the shimming of the front wheel when

the brakes are applied. Does this look like the potential problem to any of you ? Everything else looks ok.

Ron

I think that would definitely cause some shimmy when braking as that's what is holding the plate which the brake caliper is mounted to. My question is, how did it get stripped???