Aluma TK1 Trike trailer

Herst

New member
Dec 13, 2011
4
0
Pahrump, Nevada USA
We are in the process of buying a new TK1 Trike Trailer. Has anyone had the experience of loading a Gold Wing 1800 Roadsmith Trike onto this trailer and if so, did you have any problems? What kind of tie downs did you use and where did you tie down from. Would appreciate any info you can give me.

Herst the other half of Hisst


P.S.
I have hip problems and can't sit for very long on our trike. So in the process of getting a TK1 trailer. I still want to ride, just can't do the long distant trips anymore. Thank you.

herst
 
I didn't see anyone responded to your thread. I won't have a Honda Trike but I can tell you the TK-1 is a great trailer. I carry my Harley TG on it. I run a strap through the front wheel with the front wheel in a chalk. Attack the strap to the front tie-downs. The rear of the bike is strapped left to right and right to left from the rear axel. Very simple.
 
We use an aluma trailer for hauling our Stallion behind a Ford Expedition EL 4x4 . Love it. Front wheel strapped to front rail tie down, rear axel cross tied to tie down rings. rides beautiful.ThumbUp
 
TK1 here, we use fully retractable tie downs that I picked up at Northern Tool, just do a Google Search for Retractable Tie Downs there are many to choose from..... I tye wrap a nylon rope around the wheel chock and that keeps it from moving. Then I use 2 nylon handle bar straps around the crash bar and then the tie down from the strap to the forward cleat tye down.... same on the other side. Now to the back and same principal except I put two handle bar straps that I tye together thru your mag wheel then same as the front... here's some photos.... my Roadsmith fits fine.... great trailer.... you'll love it. I also added my spare to the front of the Alum. Storage Box.... then made a black Roadsmith tire cover. Then waterproofed the Storage Box with some adhesive weatherstripping and a piece of 2x8 in the bottom so if some water does make it in it will run out.
 

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Question on your TK1 trailer...

Hi Bob, I also have a Roadsmith Golwing Trike and about to purchase Aluma TK1. Thanks for the great guidance on the setup. I have a question, where did you purchase a black Roadsmith tire cover, really like it and did you add electronic brakes? Thanks!!! 323428_2136506743294_1200198404_o.jpg

TK1 here, we use fully retractable tie downs that I picked up at Northern Tool, just do a Google Search for Retractable Tie Downs there are many to choose from..... I tye wrap a nylon rope around the wheel chock and that keeps it from moving. Then I use 2 nylon handle bar straps around the crash bar and then the tie down from the strap to the forward cleat tye down.... same on the other side. Now to the back and same principal except I put two handle bar straps that I tye together thru your mag wheel then same as the front... here's some photos.... my Roadsmith fits fine.... great trailer.... you'll love it. I also added my spare to the front of the Alum. Storage Box.... then made a black Roadsmith tire cover. Then waterproofed the Storage Box with some adhesive weatherstripping and a piece of 2x8 in the bottom so if some water does make it in it will run out.
 
Aluma makes very good trailers but I thought I would alert people to an issue I had with mine. I have had an Aluma single motorcycle trailer for over 15 years (same style as the TK-1 but for a single 2 wheeler) and it only has about 8,000 miles on it. A couple of years ago a friend borrowed it and while he was pulling it on a trip one of the fenders flew off at 70 MPH. Fortunately no vehicles were behind him. The welds that attached the fender to the frame failed. On inspection I found that the welds on the other fender were cracked. I bolted the new fender on and also puts bolts through the other fender.

I e-mailed Aluma about the problem not for warranty (trailer was 12 - 13 years old at the time) but to let them know about the issue. I also suggested that they should change their design to incorporate a brace from the frame to the outside edge of the fender. At highway speeds I believe the road bumps and wind sets up a vibration in the fender and eventually cause stress fatigue in the weld. I can't tell 100% from the photos but it appears to be the same fender attachment design as on my trailer. I never had any response at all from the factory. When my friend called the factory to order a new fender all they said was "that had never happened before". Anyway, as I said I think they build a very good trailer and I like mine. I would buy another one. Just keep an eye on the fender welds.

Sunman
 
I have a TK1 for my Stallion. Makes it nice to only use one space in the garage as I park the Stallion on it after riding. I haven't towed with it yet but don't see it as being any different from my previous trailers. If I had more knowledge of how to add photos, I would. Someone will show me someday!

Tomg
 
Aluma makes very good trailers but I thought I would alert people to an issue I had with mine. I have had an Aluma single motorcycle trailer for over 15 years (same style as the TK-1 but for a single 2 wheeler) and it only has about 8,000 miles on it. A couple of years ago a friend borrowed it and while he was pulling it on a trip one of the fenders flew off at 70 MPH. Fortunately no vehicles were behind him. The welds that attached the fender to the frame failed. On inspection I found that the welds on the other fender were cracked. I bolted the new fender on and also puts bolts through the other fender.

I e-mailed Aluma about the problem not for warranty (trailer was 12 - 13 years old at the time) but to let them know about the issue. I also suggested that they should change their design to incorporate a brace from the frame to the outside edge of the fender. At highway speeds I believe the road bumps and wind sets up a vibration in the fender and eventually cause stress fatigue in the weld. I can't tell 100% from the photos but it appears to be the same fender attachment design as on my trailer. I never had any response at all from the factory. When my friend called the factory to order a new fender all they said was "that had never happened before". Anyway, as I said I think they build a very good trailer and I like mine. I would buy another one. Just keep an eye on the fender welds.

Sunman

dont ya just love it when someone tells you something didnt happen an you were there you saw IT!!!!
guessing they didnt respond cuz then they would have to say it happened ,,,, probably figure you were looking for a free fix

- - - Updated - - -

TK1 here, we use fully retractable tie downs that I picked up at Northern Tool, just do a Google Search for Retractable Tie Downs there are many to choose from..... I tye wrap a nylon rope around the wheel chock and that keeps it from moving. Then I use 2 nylon handle bar straps around the crash bar and then the tie down from the strap to the forward cleat tye down.... same on the other side. Now to the back and same principal except I put two handle bar straps that I tye together thru your mag wheel then same as the front... here's some photos.... my Roadsmith fits fine.... great trailer.... you'll love it. I also added my spare to the front of the Alum. Storage Box.... then made a black Roadsmith tire cover. Then waterproofed the Storage Box with some adhesive weatherstripping and a piece of 2x8 in the bottom so if some water does make it in it will run out.

i would suggest crossing the back two straps see photo down a post or two from yours....
imho straight is good crossed is better.. just a little more sideways stability,,
 
We are in the process of buying a new TK1 Trike Trailer. Has anyone had the experience of loading a Gold Wing 1800 Roadsmith Trike onto this trailer and if so, did you have any problems? What kind of tie downs did you use and where did you tie down from. Would appreciate any info you can give me.

Herst the other half of Hisst

P.S.
I have hip problems and can't sit for very long on our trike. So in the process of getting a TK1 trailer. I still want to ride, just can't do the long distant trips anymore. Thank you.

herst
-----------------------

Herst, this is exactly the setup I have and love it. Just did a trip with over 1500 miles towing and 1300+ riding!!! I use soft loop tie-down straps and retractable ratcheting tie-downs upfront on each side from the engine guards to the front recessed tie rings and 2 in the back, where I use two soft loop tie-down straps tied together thru the rear wheel and criss-cross my retractable ratcheting tie-downs to the rear recessed tie rings. Parking break on and tow away :laugh:

Here are the links for you:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...40_192237160_pd_te_o_s_im/180-3054461-8865960
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...40_192237160_pd_te_o_s_ti/180-3054461-8865960


13320537_10205728952134111_1595230749993051709_o.jpg13301471_10205728952094110_7223690250430500293_o.jpg13308665_10205728959894305_4435825500937921271_o.jpg
 
Alternative Tie-Down Method

-----------------------

I use soft loop tie-down straps and retractable ratcheting tie-downs upfront on each side from the engine guards to the front recessed tie rings

Michael, I would not suggest using any tie-downs on the front engine guards or the saddlebag guards. These guards are limited by the "shear" limits of the attachment bolts.

I sheared off one of the guards while transporting on a long trip. As an alternative, I have had great success with placing a couple of soft ties around the lower triple tree. Then I attach a couple of ratchet straps making sure the straps will not rub the tupperware while in transit.

I spoke with Traxxion about the slight constant compression on the front shocks during transport. They indicated that there is no problem with this set up. As an added precaution, I stuff a small rolled up towel between the fork brace and lower triple in case of rough roads to keep the front end from totally compressing.

I have been using this method for years now without snapping off another engine or saddlebag guard.ThumbUp
 
Michael, I would not suggest using any tie-downs on the front engine guards or the saddlebag guards. These guards are limited by the "shear" limits of the attachment bolts.

I sheared off one of the guards while transporting on a long trip. As an alternative, I have had great success with placing a couple of soft ties around the lower triple tree. Then I attach a couple of ratchet straps making sure the straps will not rub the tupperware while in transit.

I spoke with Traxxion about the slight constant compression on the front shocks during transport. They indicated that there is no problem with this set up. As an added precaution, I stuff a small rolled up towel between the fork brace and lower triple in case of rough roads to keep the front end from totally compressing.

I have been using this method for years now without snapping off another engine or saddlebag guard.ThumbUp

Thanks David!!!
 
TK1 here, we use fully retractable tie downs that I picked up at Northern Tool, just do a Google Search for Retractable Tie Downs there are many to choose from..... I tye wrap a nylon rope around the wheel chock and that keeps it from moving. Then I use 2 nylon handle bar straps around the crash bar and then the tie down from the strap to the forward cleat tye down.... same on the other side. Now to the back and same principal except I put two handle bar straps that I tye together thru your mag wheel then same as the front... here's some photos.... my Roadsmith fits fine.... great trailer.... you'll love it. I also added my spare to the front of the Alum. Storage Box.... then made a black Roadsmith tire cover. Then waterproofed the Storage Box with some adhesive weatherstripping and a piece of 2x8 in the bottom so if some water does make it in it will run out.
Is your wheel chock located as far forward as possible?
 
-----------------------

Herst, this is exactly the setup I have and love it. Just did a trip with over 1500 miles towing and 1300+ riding!!! I use soft loop tie-down straps and retractable ratcheting tie-downs upfront on each side from the engine guards to the front recessed tie rings and 2 in the back, where I use two soft loop tie-down straps tied together thru the rear wheel and criss-cross my retractable ratcheting tie-downs to the rear recessed tie rings. Parking break on and tow away :laugh:

Here are the links for you:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...40_192237160_pd_te_o_s_im/180-3054461-8865960
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...40_192237160_pd_te_o_s_ti/180-3054461-8865960


View attachment 36782View attachment 36783View attachment 36781
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Hauling 2 trikes

My wife and I are looking for a way to get out of the summer heat in Texas to get up north, Minnesota/Canada. As a couple of old folks, the heat takes to much out of us. So, for next year we will be looking for a trailer to haul a Spyder and a conventional trike. I'm thinking 6' wide by 18 or 20'. Any ideas out there? Aluminum open trailer to keep weight and the price down. Hope to pull it with a Honda Pilot that we already have (V6). Total weight of trikes, 2500#. What are your thoughts?
 
My wife and I are looking for a way to get out of the summer heat in Texas to get up north, Minnesota/Canada. As a couple of old folks, the heat takes to much out of us. So, for next year we will be looking for a trailer to haul a Spyder and a conventional trike. I'm thinking 6' wide by 18 or 20'. Any ideas out there? Aluminum open trailer to keep weight and the price down. Hope to pull it with a Honda Pilot that we already have (V6). Total weight of trikes, 2500#. What are your thoughts?

What kind of power & torque does your Pilot's V6 have, OJ? I pulled our Boss Hoss trike (1500lbs) on a Big Tex 7x10 trailer (1,000lbs) behind my Isuzu Rodeo with small V6 (215hp). As long as the roads were flat,it would easily pull the load but in the hills,it struggled. I sold the Rodeo and bought a new 2011 Toyota Tacoma Crewcab with 4.0 V6, 5spd auto,and tow package. Much better.
 
Can't PM but need help.

Well I know this thread is two years old but I can't PM solidbob and mpolissky so I will try this first instead of starting a new thread. I have an Aluma TK1 trailer that I am setting up to use with my 2016 Tri Glide. I was thinking about using a biker bar but on the TK1 it would be a problem because of the cross braces etc running under the floorboard area.

So I have two questions for solidbob and mpolissky. Solidbob, What kind of mount did you use to mount the spare tire to the front of the shield area and how did you actually mount it? Did you add more bracing to the inside of the aluminum box area? Mpolissky, did your trailer come with the Aluma PN 42042 stabilizer legs or did you add them? Do you remember what they cost? Thanks for any help from anybody that might have knowledge about these two items. Thanks.
 
Well I know this thread is two years old but I can't PM solidbob and mpolissky so I will try this first instead of starting a new thread. I have an Aluma TK1 trailer that I am setting up to use with my 2016 Tri Glide. I was thinking about using a biker bar but on the TK1 it would be a problem because of the cross braces etc running under the floorboard area. So I have two questions for solidbob and mpolissky. Solidbob, What kind of mount did you use to mount the spare tire to the front of the shield area and how did you actually mount it? Did you add more bracing to the inside of the aluminum box area? Mpolissky, did your trailer come with the Aluma PN 42042 stabilizer legs or did you add them? Do you remember what they cost? Thanks for any help from anybody that might have knowledge about these two items. Thanks.

The legs were added by a dealer that sold me the trailer at an additional cost. Sorry not sure on the numbers.
 
Well I know this thread is two years old but I can't PM solidbob and mpolissky so I will try this first instead of starting a new thread. I have an Aluma TK1 trailer that I am setting up to use with my 2016 Tri Glide. I was thinking about using a biker bar but on the TK1 it would be a problem because of the cross braces etc running under the floorboard area. So I have two questions for solidbob and mpolissky. Solidbob, What kind of mount did you use to mount the spare tire to the front of the shield area and how did you actually mount it? Did you add more bracing to the inside of the aluminum box area? Mpolissky, did your trailer come with the Aluma PN 42042 stabilizer legs or did you add them? Do you remember what they cost? Thanks for any help from anybody that might have knowledge about these two items. Thanks.

Mike,

Aluma makes a "bolt-on" frame mounted spare tire kit that sits in front of the tool box. No additional bracing is required.

The stabilizer legs option are an Aluma product that I had added at the factory during the trailer build. The leg supports are welded directly to the frame. The stabilzer leg option was about $60, two years ago.

If you take your trailer to an authorized Aluma dealer, you may be able to order the legs and have the dealer weld them in place.

I hope this helps.:D
 

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