Anyone else?

[Sidecarbill]

I like circuit breakers cheap easy to hook up and come auto reset or manual.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I didn't find one for the amperage.

This is the fuse link.
I have a full fuse box, this is for the primary wire for the fuse box. I dont have much space left.

 

[Sidecarbill]

So I see you're just gonna bolt that to the battery terminal then the main wire gets bolted to the fuse.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes basically.....

But on the starter lug, as it is next to the fuse box.

 

[Sidecarbill]

When I look at the distance between the lug and the fuse box it seems almost impossible to get a short on that wire. The fuses will handle anyting on the other side. New cars have fusable links for catastrophic failure maybe fit a little better in your application?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes it is for catastrophic failure of all my pieced together fuel injection.
The motorcyle part is seperate.
If I caint get this to work out then I will hunt for something else.
Yes I have been hunting some kind of fuse link that will fit in the area I have to work with.

Not to sure how this one will work out.
But it is small. Now to figure it out or get something else.

Do you know where to find a small but 50a fuse link? I have found some but with no amp rating. Nothing but the auto application listed

 

[Sidecarbill]

Well my understanding is fusable link wire is usually four sizes under the wire you're running, so 10 gauge wire 14 gauge link. I don't know what your set up is but the highest draw should be the fuel pump, nothing else should be close to that. 50 amps is a lot,ecm usually have a ten amp fuse. Those systems run off 5 volts. None of the wires I see going into that fuse box could support 50 amp.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Only the one primary wire into box is 50 amp.

If you add up full load of engine parts, fuel pump, coil, idle air valve, injectors and the low loads, ecm, sensors, it all is 60 amps total.

But that is everything at full load at the same time. I dont think that will actually happen.
So I went 50 amps on the primary side and that is all the load the motorcycle fuse box will handle anyway.

 

[Sidecarbill]

I'm not there so I don't know that seems high to me,but you're correct that scenario will never happen. So everything is fused in that box so no matter what happens a fuse will blow. The only way I can see shorting out would be the back of the fuse box somehow grounding out. To me it looks like it can only burn that 6 inch wire. The only real difference between a fuse link wire and a regular wire is the link wire has insulation that doesn't burn.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

One other thing. The plus side power is always on. All the switching and controlls are npn sinking. I even converted the switches on the bars. So everything is controlled on the negative side. So grounding it turns it on. Everthing is plus hot all the time instead of grounded all the time.
It started with the kit computer, it sinks to ground, so that type of control got used on everything else.

 

[Sidecarbill]

Well I did a little googlin and yup they can take 60 amps. Now if when everything's working it can draw 60 amps then a 50 amp fuse will not support the system. I know the ecm uses the ground system. But everyting else just seems to add complexity. I'd check for parasitic draw once its all wired. Out of curiosity is there a thread somewhere that has your whole system on it. I'd just like to see how its done.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

No not a full thread on my wiring. A lot of it is in this thread a piece at a time.

You dont think I will get there with 50 amps?
It seems to be all the motorcycle fuse panel was made for. The primary feed wire is that size. As short of a run as it is it might take a 60 amp burst but not continuous.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

One of the higher load items is the idle air valve.
It should go offline once above idle rpm.
It is for warm up and catching a rpm dip below idle rpm. It is pwm controlled also, so probably not fla often.
The coil and fuel pump are on all the time. Would not think fla all the time, should have at least a 10% safety margin in there.

Just thinking out loud here.....

So if I blow tge 50a primary, then the only thing to do would be remove something from the fuse box. Take something simple and high load like the fuel pump and wire it's primary source seperate.

 

[Sidecarbill]

Well I was probably 20 pages in to this and the old ipad mini shut down. Course they don't save your place and don't see any way to get back to the middle. For some reason it takes forever to get to the reply area. It posts my pictures sideways and just shuts down for no reason. This site is no longer friendly to my device. So good luck on the project.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Sad to hear that. Was fun talking with you.

 

[LarryA]

for what it's worth

Snu I can't see your system using any more than 20 a. even less.....maybe 20 amp inrush for fuel pump start up maybe 10 a. running iac a few a. inrush.. injectors depending on dutycycle couple a. a piece......now no expert here but I have a little 30 a. hitachi alternator will show 14.5 v at idle...it cannot be putting out more than 15/20 a. at idle voltage would be less than 14.5 in the current load was over 20a. iv'e got fuel pump ign. coil 4 inj. and iac... and can maintain 14.5v.. my 02c larry

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yeah Larry. It is hard to believe that running amps could be more than 30 amps. But still adding up all the fla it is 60 amps. I am hoping that key on inrush is below 50 amps and that I never see fla across the whole at one time.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

The throttle cable I started soldering ends on last weekend is now finished.

The other venhille cable came in and I made up all the cables and ends/adjusters. It is as sync as can be mechanically measured. Once it run the the vacuum gauge can go on it.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Made up this little shim for the idle air valve.

Shimming the solenoid out to reduce air quantity at minimum point.

As the valve is for a 302 ford and mine is approximately half of that, I think I am getting it into a more tunable arrangement.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Then made up this adapter flange. Did not take a process pic, but the normal cut, drill tap.

Hooked the external oil pressure control valve bypass return line back into the sump on the type 3 oil fill hole.