Anyone else?

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Now that is the big unknown.
Nowhere I can find is an actual spring rate listed for the harley shocks.
So i have no firm calculations.

What I have done is take the weight of the rear of the donating motorcycle and backwards calculate it through the mechanical ratio. Then apply it to my weight and ratio. By this it is still way too much spring.
Now that this much is together I can set the axle down on a block then put my body weight on it and make it move about a quarter inch.
So far it looks promising.
But if not I will do something else.
Do really wish I had more real spring data about the shock.
It may very well support the weight but be terribly soft with no per inch data available.

 

[slick rick]

Sounds as though it has the same downward movement as a my springer , I was actually thinking it may be to soft for the weight . If that's all you can get the spring to collapse it should be fine , curious to find out how it works . Like I said earlier that's a fine job , I'd run one on my scooter ThumbUpThumbUpThumbUp

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

So the 2387cc stroker motor is coming along. Had to do a lot of milling and grinding to make room to swing the big crank. Cut the case for a lip seal on the pulley. Made a two piece bolt in windage tray. Stated on a plug to block off the dizzy hole.

Even had to cut notches in the cam to clear the stroke.

 

[stinger608]

This is an amazing build man!!!

Any new updates since Feb?

I also sent ya a PM regarding some parts.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Yes there are some updates.*
Still not together though.
Things got real slow here and I quit keeping the thread up to date.
I will get back on it shortly.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I made a little baffle plate to cover the distributor drive area. My pressure bypass is in the gear cavity area instead of right at the push rod tubes.

Hoping the baffle will keep the oil from flinging out the fuel pump and distributer holes.



Moved the oil Porting around in the case.







Then started whittling on a coil mount for a Ford coil.

 

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Most people just rebuild ... seems you're redesigning

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

So now the distributor hole is the oil filler.

The fuel pump hole is the crankcase vent and the oil cooler mount is now the coil mount.



Checking the shifter clearance.



Looks like it will clear the coil.

The 4 in a row throttle bodies I cut into pairs are all the same casting. Just machined or not in all the places. So all I had to do was machine in the bosses for a place to put some throttle linkage.



Then machined the motorcycle throttle bodies to fit automotive injectors.



Then went to machine the fuel rail, but decided I did not like the way they turned out.



So i started over from scratch on fuel rails.

Took the box of electronic goodies.

Soldered up the board.



Powered it up and loaded some code.

Had to do some troubleshooting. I had a transistor soldered in backwards.

Got it sorted and started writing map tables.



All the inputs and outputs work now.



Soldering some cables.

 

[stinger608]

Holy Moly man!!! You are doing some real serious designing and mods to this puppy.

Wow, I am very excited and interested in seeing how the electronic fuel injection works on this.

What compression ratio are you figuring on running? Stock or are you going to have to lower the compression?

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Whittled out a set of fuel rails.



Started on some linkage. Going to use cables this time instead of levers.



Made up some air filters.





A buuuuuunch of cam.

Dynamic cr will be pretty low under 3k rpm.

Static calculated target is 9.5 to 9.8

Dynamic under 3k around 7

Once the cam comes in the dynamic will come on up.



Starting on the pulley hub to adapt a Ford crank trigger to to it.



Next project step......

 

[stinger608]

Wow, yea an Engle FK10 is a lot of cam. ThumbUp

I am putting together a little 1835 and running an Engle 110. Planning on putting 1.25 rockers in just to get a little more lift and a slight lump at the idle. Couldn't imagine running an FK10 in a street motor.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Well it is only 850 lbs or so.
I have lots of gear in it and it still blows through the gears so fast.
But it is fun when "young buck" with the crotch rocket thinks he is gonna blow by "old man" on the trike and learns that the world ain't what he thinks it is.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow, yea an Engle FK10 is a lot of cam. ThumbUp

I am putting together a little 1835 and running an Engle 110. Planning on putting 1.25 rockers in just to get a little more lift and a slight lump at the idle. Couldn't imagine running an FK10 in a street motor.

You have the 110 yet?

 

[stinger608]

Well it is only 850 lbs or so.
I have lots of gear in it and it still blows through the gears so fast.
But it is fun when "young buck" with the crotch rocket thinks he is gonna blow by "old man" on the trike and learns that the world ain't what he thinks it is.

- - - Updated - - -



You have the 110 yet?

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Yea, no kidding man. When I was heavy into "fast" bugs I loved blowing away the "muscle" cars. Bhahahaha.
I ran a 440 Cuda once and waxed it with 2180. That little dude would lift the front tires off the ground for a second between first and second gear.

I actually do already have the 110...........Jeez, I suppose you have one. :xzqxz:

Thought about putting a 120 in but kind of figured it would be a touch much.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

I have some eagle cams, cb performance.
A 2241
And a 2246.
Both good with 1.25 rockers.
The 2246 probably to big for a sub 2L engine.
I really liked the 2246 in 2110 and 2180 street engines. Big enough but still comes on hard from way down low.

This fk10 is my first engle cam. I am wanting to soften up the bottom end some. But i do want it to come on when I want it there. Might be a mistak running an fk10 and 3.44 r&p, 1.26 third and .82 fourth.

- - - Updated - - -

Hehe
I have had a 440 cuda. I doubt the bug would have taken it. But back when I ran the bug I did have a chevy eater tag on it. Most of the races I beat a v8 in was a really short stop light race or someone who gave up and did not stay in it till the end. I had a few friends that knew better and would hang in there and run the bug down by the end of the quarter.

 

[stinger608]

Oh yea, it was a short "stop light to stop light" run. Probably 300 yards....Maybe. :laugh:

Yea, I am still wondering on the rocker arm geometry. Running the 1.25's with the 110 cam I am not sure if I am going to have to shim up the rockers to get good geometry.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Most all of the new rockers are the type with the adjuster on the push rod side and the curved face on the valve side.

They all take custom length push rods and or shimming. Most even take some shimming side to side to get aligned with the valve correct.

I am running 5.5 inch "chevy" rods so my deck hieght is tall. My push rods are long. Also running 050 heads and the rocker pad is not to stock dimension I hieght.

 

[stinger608]

I have a stock length set of Chromoly push rods and hoping I can use them. Being just a stock height on the heads I am thinking I can just use the shims.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

You anywhere near a vw crankshaft shop?

I have an 82mm vw journal crank with messed up dowel pins.

Possibly fixable. I just replaced it.

 

[stinger608]

You anywhere near a vw crankshaft shop?

I have an 82mm vw journal crank with messed up dowel pins.

Possibly fixable. I just replaced it.

Actually within 50 miles of one of the best in this part of the country.

I think they have to fill and redrill to repair dowel pin holes, but I have seen it done before.

 

[DeathBySnuSnu]

Cranks are so cheap now that once I figured all the shipping and hours of work to go in it......... Well I figured new was cheaper for me to deal with.
Would be nice to make it usable again. Somebody could use it.