Harley Fluids What and Why!

I plan on using Redline products when the first fluid change comes...which is soon. I used them on the past 2 CVO`s with 110" motors with zero issues. I'm a big proponent of using application specific oils.

Jerry
 
Redline 20x60w in Engine ,I believe the heavier Weight is needed for the Heavier Trikes. Reline HD weight for the trans. same reason. Formula + because you guys have said it is better to use. Just let you all know, you can get Mobil 1 at Meijers for $10 a quart (MC oil 20x50w) if you want to save a buck or two.
 
On my wife's 2013 TriGlide with Syn3 in all 3 holes, we CANNOT find neutral and it sounds like my Uncle's thrashing machine. Also shifting is very ruff and loud. What comes after clunk, a bang in the primary. We told by dealer, "well some are quiet and some are not, you got one that makes noise". BS is what that is!

Switched to HD Shock in primary and BelRay 90-140 in the transmission and Syn3 in the engine. It now runs like a fine tuned Swiss watch, very quiet and can hit neutral on the first try. Shifts so quiet now, it is a totality different machine.

I have just hit the 1k on my trike and plan on the above for it also.

I cannot see trashing a transmission for the convenience of carrying just one kind of oil! I guess if you got one of those quiet running bikes it doesn't matter. I have owned 5 new Harleys since 2011 and all 5 have NOT been the quiet kind...
 
amsoil in engine/ royle purple in trans / b&m trick shift in primary. but............. pulled into a mc d's drive thru that was on an up hill angle and had to wait a while with the clutch in. started pulling with the clutch in. I reved it a couple of time and it quit. No problems now but that concerned me a little .
 
My 2014 and all my previous bikes ran on Amsoil 20/50 and they all ran like a top and quiet also. I believe no 2 bikes are the same and that's why you get one person saying Amsoil/Syn3/RedLine/Mobil1/Belray/Royal Purple/Penzoil/etc. etc. is quiet and the next person says it's the noisest one ever.
My best advice is use whatever one is the lowest cost, easiest to get and that YOU feel comfortable with. I have yet to hear of anyone's engine self destructing due to the oil they used - if it was the right viscocity and changed per the mfg's recommendations.
Bottom line - ANY modern motorcycle oil will be fine to use.

It costs me $9/qt and the warehouse is just down the street from my office.
For the trans I use Amsoil severe gear 75-140 and the primary I use H-D Formula+

I also remember Harley saying syn oil will destroy your engine. How times have changed. I'm going through something like that now with GM saying if you don't use a "Dexos" oil you will destroy your engine. Will they ever stop??? :gah:
 
This is an age old argument with no clear answer. too many variables . No oil company is putting out crap oil. if it meets the code for that particular machines requirement, it should work.

HOWEVER: its experience with the machine that will dictate how each of use choose an oil we like.

my NO list is

quaker state

pensoil

Castrol

mobile one

at one time or another I have had a bad motor problem with all of the above. there for I choose not to use them. I cant say the oil caused the problem but ...........bad mojo for me.

we all have to make our own choice... choose wisely grasshopper.
 
Gear and rings have very different lubrication requirements and in the long run you will be glad you used the lubricant intended for each application. Sure, you can get away with a single lube for a while. Lord only knows how long.But if you have two identical bike ridden the same, one using the same lubricant in all cases and the other bike using job specif oil, which one are you going to bet on?

PC
 
2014 TG - Harley 2 free services from my dealer Classic Harley, Leesport, PA.

At 1K service they used Syn3 in all three holes. Now at 2K neutral is getting very easy to find .... put still hate the clunking.

Coming up 2.5K service they are putting Syn3 in motor, Formula+ in Primary, 85W-140 Bel-Ray in transmission.

I am sure I will be much happier. :)

Bob :Dorag:
 
I run Lucas 20-50 Racing only oil in the engine and primary with Lucas 75-90 extreme in the trans. All fine. I use Amsoil 20-50 in all three holes in the wife" 07 Fxst/ CSC trike. I like the Amsoil in hers because it helps cool her "96" down better than Harley oils. I may switch to Amsoil in both bikes for that reason alone.
 
The oil that is use is determined by your engine. I prefer amsoil.
In 2 of my bikes I use amsoil 20/50 in the engine, amsoil severe lube 70/90
Primary, call me old fashion-it's only a oil bath, hd transmission/primary lube. Old style.

My trike gets all amsoil
20/50 engine
70/90 transmission, baker transmission, only 22 oz...
ATF primary. Primo clutch
 
OK so it is another oil thread, but I'll put my .02 in...

I have found Mobil 1 V-twin 20W50 to give me very good service in my other two harleys, so it is going into my new '14 TG when it is time for the 5K change in a few weeks. Stange; the service manager at the dealer said that they don't put synth in the police fleet they service here in Florida, nothing but dino.

Going to be Redline Shockproof in the trans. Local indie carries their stuff, and it is very well thught of.
 
2014 TG - Harley 2 free services from my dealer Classic Harley, Leesport, PA.

At 1K service they used Syn3 in all three holes. Now at 2K neutral is getting very easy to find .... put still hate the clunking.

Coming up 2.5K service they are putting Syn3 in motor, Formula+ in Primary, 85W-140 Bel-Ray in transmission.

I am sure I will be much happier. :)

Bob :Dorag:

Classic Harley-Davidson did the change as requested. They said this is their most popular combination and no issues with the warranty. Shifts smooth and Neutral is VERY EASY with a light push on the heel shifter.

Bob :Dorag:
 
This is an age old argument with no clear answer. too many variables . No oil company is putting out crap oil. if it meets the code for that particular machines requirement, it should work.

HOWEVER: its experience with the machine that will dictate how each of use choose an oil we like.

my NO list is

quaker state

pensoil

Castrol

mobile one

at one time or another I have had a bad motor problem with all of the above. there for I choose not to use them. I cant say the oil caused the problem but ...........bad mojo for me.

we all have to make our own choice... choose wisely grasshopper.

now a wise man on this site briefly explained that the compensator did not like syn. oil or atf. so, I did a clutch change yesterday and went with dino oil in the primary with a touch (about 4 oz) of b&m trick shift as suggested. we will see.

the other holes are syn 3 in the motor and royle purple in trans.
 
Thanks Tom! Glad I got the Syn3 out of the Primary! I'll say one thing about the compensator .... If you hear it clunking a lot by getting on/off the throttle you know you are adding to its wear. If you are smooth and hardly ever hear that "clunk" you are adding to its longevity. I like to refer to it as a cush drive for your engine .... and I know lots of cycle beaters who have destroyed their cush drives in their rear wheels.

Wonder why Harley did not pursue using a belt drive dry Primary like I had in my 1983 FXDG?

I may look into adding some B&M trick shift next change.

Bob :Dorag:
 
road with the new clutch spring and the fluid change Saturday. clutch works good. the change to dino oil in the primary made a big difference! quieter shifts and running. a little stiffer shifting but I will deal with that.
 
I'd like to offer my 15 years of experience from running Gulf Oil's Cincinnati's Fluid Catalytic Cracking Unit for 15 years and possibly end the discussion on which oil is the best. (Well, only because this allowed me contact with the guys that ran the lube oil department. I'm no engineer.) Naturally, synthetic, even the poorest synthetic, is better than the best dino oil. Other than that, the different additives put in today's oil are so similar there's not much difference between them. The best oil you can chose is the one that you will change on a regular basis. As you've heard so many times before, it's the cheapest insurance there is. And as for one oil making your engine run cooler, if it actually did, that company would have a lock on oil sales. There are way too many factors that affect oil temperature to consider being able to determine it ourselves without sensors to determine such things as speed, gear ratio, manual or auto trans, weight of the vehicle, drag ratio, head wind, humidity, throttle position, ambient temperature, distance continuously driven, type of tire and tire pressure, and much more.

For as long as I've been dealing with engines, and I'm 65 now, I have never seen an oil related failure. Pick an oil you like and change it regularly. You can't go wrong cause that's the best one for you.

Phu Cat
 

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