Help Needed From 2004 Lehman GL1800 Owners

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Hi,
I have a 2004 Lehman GL1800 Monarch (not Monarch II it was just called a Monarch) with drum brakes. My GL1800 was standard "without" ABS. I'm changing the brake shoes as well as the wheel cylinders. I need to know what the brake bleeding procedure is. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks,Ray
 
I don't have a Lehman but I do have drum brakes on a couple of my old Mustangs. I would suppose the brake bleeding is the same as any bleeding process. Pump the brake pedal and crake the bleeding port then close it immediately. Do that until the bubbles are gone and the pedal is firm and the fluid has changed to clean in the case of a fluid change.
It shouldn't be too big a deal just don't get into a hurry and have someone there to pump the brake pedal.
 
bleeding is the same process as any automobile. pump the brakes, hold. bleed, close bleeder. repeat. your done when no air comes out with the fluid.
 
as others have indicated the procedure is much like an automobile. The issue you MAY run into, is the rear brake master cylinder on your trike maybe lower then the wheel cylinders in the rear. If you can raise the front of the trike to make the master higher then the wheel cylinders it will be easier to completely bleed the brakes. Good luck.
 
GL1800 linked brake bleeding

Hi,
I have a 2004 Lehman GL1800 Monarch (not Monarch II it was just called a Monarch) with drum brakes. My GL1800 was standard "without" ABS. I'm changing the brake shoes as well as the wheel cylinders. I need to know what the brake bleeding procedure is. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks,Ray

Ray,
The Monarch & Monarch II both retained the linked brake system that was OEM based. The drum system is easier to bleed than the later disc version on the Monarch II.

Keep the reservoir full while bleeding and properly adjust the brake shoes before starting the process.
Start with bleeding the LR, RR and then the LF caliper. Also bleed the anti-dive valve on the left lower fork. DO NOT PUMP the pedal rapidly as it will stir up any air you have in the system. Single pump until fluid is free of air. If your MC is in good condition, you should have good hard pedal.

I think I have a pdf at work with the GL1800 bleeding sequence but not on this computer.
 
Ray,
The Monarch & Monarch II both retained the linked brake system that was OEM based. The drum system is easier to bleed than the later disc version on the Monarch II.

Keep the reservoir full while bleeding and properly adjust the brake shoes before starting the process.
Start with bleeding the LR, RR and then the LF caliper. Also bleed the anti-dive valve on the left lower fork. DO NOT PUMP the pedal rapidly as it will stir up any air you have in the system. Single pump until fluid is free of air. If your MC is in good condition, you should have good hard pedal.

I think I have a pdf at work with the GL1800 bleeding sequence but not on this computer.

Thanks goes out to all of you for your help. If you have the pdf, please give the link. Thanks for all the help, I sincerely appreciate it. Ray
 
Ray,

The Monarch & Monarch II both retained the linked brake system that was OEM based. The drum system is easier to bleed than the later disc version on the Monarch II.

Keep the reservoir full while bleeding and properly adjust the brake shoes before starting the process.

Start with bleeding the LR, RR and then the LF caliper. Also bleed the anti-dive valve on the left lower fork. DO NOT PUMP the pedal rapidly as it will stir up any air you have in the system. Single pump until fluid is free of air. If your MC is in good condition, you should have good hard pedal.

I think I have a pdf at work with the GL1800 bleeding sequence but not on this computer.

I realize this is older but, I have an important question in regards to the LF front caliper being bled. I've seen some conflicting articles in the past stating that it's the RT front caliper in the sequence below. I know you stated that both Monarch's are the same. I just want to re-confirm that it's the LT front caliper, not the RT. Thanks.
 

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