Pic Heavy Ride Report - MS to Bella Coola & Back 11,000 Miles Heat, Hail & Bears

Day 24

Today is The Day!

This is our furthest point from home. This is the place that Mary has been excited about going to since we first started planning the trip. After Bella Coola we are going to turn around and start the ride back home.


Woke up to a sunny morning in Nimpo Lake. Looking out from the cabin porch.

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Out the window of the cabin...yep, TG is still there. :)

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By the time we got packed up, some cloud cover had moved in...rode down to the lakes' edge as we were leaving.

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This is where we stayed. Super nice cabin, full kitchen, plenty of room, great views, $100, and the folks running it were great also. We did make reservations a couple of months in advance. We'll also be staying here on the way back out of Bella Coola, a couple of days from now.

To give a bit of an idea of how different it is up here. Last night when we bought dinner supplies, gas and lunch supplies at the store...the same place where we also rented the cabin. When we went to pay, they said not to bother, we'd settle up when we came back thru since we were staying another night in the cabin in a couple of days. They had no credit card on file, our reservation was just our name, address and phone number.

Where we live out in the country in Mississippi, some places still do that for folks they know, but not total strangers. Way different up here!

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This pic cracks me up. Mary took it of herself as we were starting toward Bella Coola.

She has been all hot to go there from day one, and the last few days she has asked if I still really wanted to go. lol I told her if she did not want to, we wouldn't...she does, just a bit nervous.

When I first saw the videos I realized that if some vehicle came around one of the blind corners fast, where there was not enough room for 2 vehicles, I would have to override my natural reaction to avoid them...because avoiding them would mean going off the cliff. More than a few people have died that way. I know if it happens, I will turn toward the mountain side, regardless of if it means getting hit or not...I am not going off the edge. :)


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Leaving Nimpo Lake the road was asphalt for the first few miles...and there were fences, but all the horses (and there were a bunch) were outside the fences.

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After Anahim Lake, the road turned to dirt/gravel.

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For the most part it is very well maintained...

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...it had not rained, the water truck had already been down the road to keep the dust down.

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This is a really fun road!

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More in next post.
 
Day 24 continued.


A Really fun road, if you like dips and curves and good views! The surface is smoother than a lot of asphalt roads, but it has some nice give for a bit of drifting without being too aggressive.

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Great scenery along the way- Mountains...

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...Ponds....

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...Lakes.

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Before we know it we covered a bunch of km's and the gnarly part of the road starts with a gentle 12% incline.

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Pic #1 of 3 of the first of a dozen+ blind curves, immediately followed by switchbacks...

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Pic #2 of 3

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Pic #3 of 3. Oh yeah, this is gonna be a lot of fun!

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A blind curve where the road is still relatively wide and smooth, even though there is a good size drop-off.

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After this the road got quite a bit rougher, steeper, narrower. I am going to post more pics of the ride all the way down to Bella Coola over the next couple of days.

However, in the meantime here is a short youtube video that we just made today. Gives a little taste of The Hill.







Day 24 to be continued.

Kevin
 
A tad bit of trepidation in Mary's face there ... after the video, I can see why ... LOL ... as for heading to the mountain side ... I concur .. your chances are better getting hit than falling a long way down.

As always, I truly enjoy your ride threads.
 
A tad bit of trepidation in Mary's face there ... after the video, I can see why ... LOL ... as for heading to the mountain side ... I concur .. your chances are better getting hit than falling a long way down.

As always, I truly enjoy your ride threads.

Yeah, I did not know she had taken that pic til later. Cracked me up. :)



My wife says no way no how would she be willing to drive, ride, or even walk that road..:AGGHH:


I understand completely...when Mary said she wanted to go to Bella Coola, I went to youtube, found a few videos and really had my doubts. I then showed her the videos and said, are you sure you want to go. She said yes. So I pondered it, figured if other could, I could. Also started conditioning my mind to head toward the mountain if there was an issue...no way I wanted to go off the edge.

Told her that was what we we would do, did she still want to go. Yep.

Here's the thing. When we got down to Bella Coola, I told her the road did not seem anywhere near as dangerous or scary as the videos made it look. She agreed. We figured they must have widened the road or something.

Then we looked at our pictures and videos...and it did seem the same as what we had seen...but when we were actually riding it, it was not bad at all.


Kevin
 
I have only read through page 5 of your trip, wanted to skip to the end to tell you I am enjoying it and intend to read every page. Really great. Makes me wanna strike out on the road. Waiting for the wife to muster the courage and energy.
 
Riding long distances is an acquired skill. You have to work up to it,gradually. It's obvious Kevin and Mary have honed it to a fine edge as being on the road for that long and for that many miles,deserves some serious kudos.

Sherry and I hope to do some week-long rides next year,after I'm retired. Never thought I would need or want a pull-behind trailer but I'm really starting to warm up to the idea.
 
Long riding is just great. MJ and I have made 5 6k + trips with the longest 10k+ This years was 7.5k and we love it. We are small time as compared to others. It is different because you can really get into the riding mode. I think once you try it you will be hooked. We motel it when we travel.
 
I have only read through page 5 of your trip, wanted to skip to the end to tell you I am enjoying it and intend to read every page. Really great. Makes me wanna strike out on the road. Waiting for the wife to muster the courage and energy.

Glad you are enjoying!

The hard part is not the riding. The hard part for us is saving $ all year long to be able to afford the trip.

Really, it is just like a day ride, then you are in a motel or at a friend or relatives house...less work to do there than if at home.

Then the next day is like another day ride. OR, ride a day and stay somewhere a few days before riding another day...and the days don't need to be a lot of miles. On our trips, there may be a few days that are 500 or 600 miles, but most days are 250-300, but they can be anything you want. The ride from Nimpo Lake to Bella Coola was only 98 miles.




Riding long distances is an acquired skill. You have to work up to it,gradually. It's obvious Kevin and Mary have honed it to a fine edge as being on the road for that long and for that many miles,deserves some serious kudos.

Sherry and I hope to do some week-long rides next year,after I'm retired. Never thought I would need or want a pull-behind trailer but I'm really starting to warm up to the idea.


Picking what to take, maybe shipping some stuff to a point you know you're going to be at, and packing...those may be skills or things to learn.

Riding is easy, fun. Many years ago we used to push to get a lot of miles done in a day...now I'd rather ride less miles and enjoy the ride more.



Long riding is just great. MJ and I have made 5 6k + trips with the longest 10k+ This years was 7.5k and we love it. We are small time as compared to others. It is different because you can really get into the riding mode. I think once you try it you will be hooked. We motel it when we travel.

Yeah, no doubt about it being addictive! lol Moteling it is the way to go for us. Never thought I'd say that, but years ago we realized how much more we'd enjoy it with a nice shower, bed, a/c, heat, whatever, than having to set up camp every night and break down every morning. (we still go camping, but only when we're going to be in one spot for a few days).

I so spoiled now, I pack the bags so I only have to carry what we need into the motel for that night, and leave the rest in the bike. lol
 
I really envy you. We will never be able to do anything like this due to our home circumstances. I can say this though. If we are ever able to get another camper, it will be a toy hauler, so I can take the TG with us wherever we go. When we retire, we will be doing a lot of camping. Taking our two special needs (by that time) adults won't be a deterrent for camping.

I can always ride when we get to our destinations, wherever they may be.
 
Day 24 continued.


Another of many switchbacks!

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When we crossed this creek, little did we know...

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...that we were still on the easy, not so gnarly part of the road.

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This is where it really started- Proceed with Caution, Steep Narrow Winding Road.

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What the sign does not say...

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...is that there are long stretches of road where it is so narrow that two vehicles cannot get by. Yes, that is the road up ahead in this picture...even though it looks more like a trail. lol

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But there are plenty of spots where the road widens. We stopped at one and took a few pics.

I know nothing about road building, dynamite or keeping rocks from falling, but in this picture you can see some sort of bolt or stud that has gone into the rock and has a small flat plate. Seems like these are there to keep the mountain from falling onto the road. ???

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At the same stop/wide point in the road...

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...same spot, about 15 feet from the bike, looking down at the road below...

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...still the same spot, looking from the edge of the road to Mary and the "bolted together" mountain side.

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More in next post.
 
Day 24 continued.


Looking back as we are nearing the end of the hill. Notice we had the bear spray out for easy access. We saw no bears.

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Almost back on the asphalt! Still 74 km til Bella Coola.

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Much smoother, but still lots of fun curves. btw, there will be a lot more pics of "The Hill", more video too, as that is the way back out. :)

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74 km's of beautiful scenery and fun road, and we are in Bella Coola!

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Bella Coola is not a big town. Here is the Bella Coola Motel that Mary had made reservations at.

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We unpacked at the motel and then went to the, literal, end of the road, which is just a little past the docks...this is where all the glacier water meets the ocean water.

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At the docks I went to use the restroom, when I came out Mary was in the riders seat. She's pretty happy to be here!

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A few more pics from around town-


The river side end of the bay

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One of the many amazing views from in town

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Glacier water flowing down into the river at the edge of town.

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Kevin
 
I was asked a few questions about the road to Bella Coola, including how long is the gravel part.

Also about other vehicles on the road.

I did a little internet search and found some interesting info and a few pics.

*********************


About 60 km of dirt road, 24 km of which is the nasty part.




On the way to Bella Coola we did encounter a few vehicles. No one was going fast (which was my concern), and I could hear them, so made sure I was on my side of the road. Once there was no "my side" of the road, so I backed up a ways to a wider section to give them room to pass.


IMG_1744.JPG






Here is a quote from the Chilicotin website-


It is 200 miles from Williams Lake to Anahim Lake and just about another 100 from Anahim Lake to the Bella Coola Harbour. On this last stretch you will be on the 'Freedom Highway' and the "Hill", so called because when folks asked the Government for a road from Bella Coola to the Chilcotin Plateau in the 1950's, Government refused, stating that the terrain made it impossible to build one. So...locals got together and built the road themselves through some of the roughest terrain in Canada. With grades as steep as 18%, this is judged to be the steepest public highway in North America involving a drop of 4000 feet over a distance of only 10 miles.




Here is a quote from the dangerous roads website-


The road is certainly breathtaking and it has a fearsome reputation. The road features an 18% grade and narrow, winding switchbacks on the climb out of Bella Coola through the coastal mountains. Once out of Bella Coola, it runs through the mountainous Tweedsmuir South Provincial Park,which contains a great deal of wildlife, including grizzlies and black bears and then through the mostly desolate country of the Chilcotin Plateau. The road descends 43 km (27 mi) of steep, narrow road with sharp hairpin turns and two major switchbacks to the Bella Coola Valley. The descent includes a 9 km (5.6 mi) section with grades of up to 18% (about 1 in 6). Tourists who have driven to Bella Coola from Williams Lake have been known to refuse to drive back and have had to be taken out by boat or float plane.



And a couple of pictures-


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