I have about 8k miles sense i bought my Trike. One thing I noticed is I think the bike is too low to the ground. Every time I get to one of these speed bumps, I need to enter it on an angle or I hit bottom. Is there a way to raise it up a couple inches and not screw it up? 2010 GL1800 CSC
Trike very low clearance
- Thread starter RobertW
- Start date
Not necessarily any thing wrong here.
My Motor Trike kit is only 2.5 inches off the ground at the front of my frame. I lost an inch or so when the Aquaboards were installed.
I bang on most speed strips.
I too have to avoid most rumble strips. I find even at an angle some are too high.
No way I know to raise the frame. The rear yes with spacers but the front frame is what it is.
My Motor Trike kit is only 2.5 inches off the ground at the front of my frame. I lost an inch or so when the Aquaboards were installed.
I bang on most speed strips.
I too have to avoid most rumble strips. I find even at an angle some are too high.
No way I know to raise the frame. The rear yes with spacers but the front frame is what it is.
My Roadsmith will drag on some of them too. Average sized speed bumps are okay but anything above average will rub if I'm not careful. Another reason I like my belly pan.
I've noticed the same with my MT Adventure
Reminding myself to ask Zook if fork extensions would help.
Reminding myself to ask Zook if fork extensions would help.
consitter
Bob's Curmudgeon Apprentice
Weird that this thread was posted today. I went to my uncle's house, and he has a cement driveway that he paved over, instead of busting up the concrete and pouring new, a few years back. There is no noticeable hump, and I've never felt one when pulling into the drive in cars.
I drove directly off the street into the driveway with my trike and there was a god-awful scraping noise when I did!! I felt under the painted surfaces on the rear, and there wasn't any rough spots. I'm guessing it was the exhaust tips that dragged. They were too hot to feel at the time.
Oh yeah, it dragged on the way out too, even though I made sure to pull out really slow.:AGGHH:
Eh, nobody is gonna see the bottom except a tech anyhow, unless I manage to turn the dang thing over.
I drove directly off the street into the driveway with my trike and there was a god-awful scraping noise when I did!! I felt under the painted surfaces on the rear, and there wasn't any rough spots. I'm guessing it was the exhaust tips that dragged. They were too hot to feel at the time.
Oh yeah, it dragged on the way out too, even though I made sure to pull out really slow.:AGGHH:
Eh, nobody is gonna see the bottom except a tech anyhow, unless I manage to turn the dang thing over.
Had mine converted a few weeks ago I with a CSC kit. I also have a belly and that measures 4" from the ground. The tubular frame supporting the floorboards measures 4-1/4". If you go to the CSC web site it states the clearance is 4.2" Hope this helps
I've never drug my RS over a speed hump; or anything else for that matter.
1800 06 Champion Trike
TOI - Wisconsin
Mine's is ok but I also watch it for speed bumps, going up driveways and also railroad tracks.
We have a lot of "custom" speed bumps here.
Oh My What to do..... it drags....
Depending on your kit as all are slightly different and each is setup different to the riders liking so a one stop answer is available. But what can you check?
Quite a lot actually but some things will take work at little expense while others changing to a different product will make a difference. Prior to making any adjustments take measurements at the rear for ground clearance, at the ground effects running boards if equipted and at the front lower valance and running boards that may drag some of the times. Without measurements you don't know what's happening when you adjust something and remember what you did so if you didn't like it, you can undo it.
So starting at the rear suspension checking manual shock settings by adjusting the shocks to a higher setting (nearly all trike kits when delivered to the customer are set to the lowest setting, just FYI ).... cause and effect... higher settings allow less body roll and a some what stiffer ride. If you have air ride suspension and adjustable shocks lower the air pressure to compensate for the stiffer ride shocks.
No air ride, lower your tire pressure slightly but not low enough to cause tire flex and strange tire wear as this also effects body roll but its caused by tire roll. Correctly inflated car tires on a trike are an easy deal, wet a patch on concrete on your drive (not a puddle) and push your trikes rear tires thru the patch / if your tire width is not completely damp the full width then / if there is an area not as damp or dry in the middle increase pressure slightly , if the middle area is damp and the edges are dry or nearly dry lower your pressure.
This is a trike with car tires / Radials also and what's written on the sidewall as far as pressure does not apply to a trikes weight... contact area with the pavement is what matters. Also you do not rotate rear Trike tires... as said before they are generally radials and only rotate back to front same side. Now go ride around the block and check changes and re-measure.
Need more height in the rear... $$ change to air shocks, increase Progressive Shock height, changing to taller aspect tires or a different wheel & tire combination.... all of these also cause other conditions... increasing total height changes balance in corners and again the dreaded roll factor, changing tires or tire & wheel may throw off your speedo further by changing the ratio and always the possibility that they won't fit in the wheel well are may be very difficult to mount in the fender. Always check the manufacturers options for your trike kit to see what their optional tire & wheel combo is, they should know?
Well now we go to the front with less options but there are some. Lets start by saying most trike kits have some degree of rake kit on them, some kits but not all come with Fork Extenders like these shown here: http://cadtochrome.com/ctc/forkcaps/caps.html most of these are 3/4" - 1 1/2" and I believe taller are available but unsure where. Your trike kit manufacturer or dealer should know if your rake kit came with them.
These generally raise the height at the lower valance by about 1/2 - 1" at a max. although if your stock Goldwing GL1800 or 1500 fork springs are still installed they are most likely worn out unless you only ride one up and are a featherweight... There are ways to address the worst part on the best Touring bike we all own and they vary greatly... if you DO NOT have Fork Extenders here's your list...
Fork Extenders (check to make sure your trike has them or not) then its time to make a decision as to how long your fix will last / Rebuild your front end with another set of stock springs and new bushings, (my least favorite option) as you will still have the original problems surface later... then there's Progressive Suspension Fork Springs: http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit that some find to stiff... Then there's Traxxion's Suspension Fork Spring Kit built for your specific weight and riding style : http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Spring-Kit-by-Traxxion-Dynamics-Honda-GL1800/ then there's Race Tech which has many options for you depending on your year of bike and whether its a 1800 or 1500:
http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx they are also weight specific with lots of options.... then there's what I call the total fix :
http://www.traxxion.com/Gold-Wing/ as the front end is really the problem I went with the AK-20 Total Fork rebuild back in 2005 when my front end started sinking, I measured my 2003 GL1800 prior to doing anything, on the center stand and everything looked good but when I was taking it off the stand and dropping it down to the side stand I was shocked when I saw the front end just sink through about half of its distance of travel...Unladen bike suspensions should not sink or dive... there was about 2 1/2" of travel left, when down sitting on the bike back then... so I knew I needed to get this fixed to cure cupping tires and handling problems.
So as I said I opted for Traxxion to rebuild my forks (this was in 2005 ) and I sent them off... 10 days later they where back and they really felt stiff prior to getting them installed... I had specified all the details required so it was installation time.... at this same time I had also opted to buy a Super Brace to also try.. as they disable the anti dive (no longer required) it was a fairly quick re-installation. The next morning I was ready for the shake down cruise, quick run to the gas station and I was already impressed and couldn't wait to get back home and get the spouse on for some hill country riding... and off we went.
Within 20 minutes the smile would not leave our faces... we rode for 5 hours with no comment but just amazed what this did for riding feeling thru the frame , controls and seat... so I was hooked and so was the spouse.... but lots has changed since 2005 / my bike is now a trike with many more miles of smiles but it retains all the same modifications as once I'm happy with something its hard to get me to change and to date mother Honda hasn't made anything to make me change.
This AK-20 installation brought my bike back up to 1" taller than it set when it was stock as a bike and only went down 1 3/4" once my 265 was on it as a BIKE... My TRIKE as of today with 1 1/2" Fork Extensions and the AK-20 setup is 5" Clear from the Roadsmith Wing Guard Running Boards... to the ground... I still try to avoid speed bumps!!
Depending on your kit as all are slightly different and each is setup different to the riders liking so a one stop answer is available. But what can you check?
Quite a lot actually but some things will take work at little expense while others changing to a different product will make a difference. Prior to making any adjustments take measurements at the rear for ground clearance, at the ground effects running boards if equipted and at the front lower valance and running boards that may drag some of the times. Without measurements you don't know what's happening when you adjust something and remember what you did so if you didn't like it, you can undo it.
So starting at the rear suspension checking manual shock settings by adjusting the shocks to a higher setting (nearly all trike kits when delivered to the customer are set to the lowest setting, just FYI ).... cause and effect... higher settings allow less body roll and a some what stiffer ride. If you have air ride suspension and adjustable shocks lower the air pressure to compensate for the stiffer ride shocks.
No air ride, lower your tire pressure slightly but not low enough to cause tire flex and strange tire wear as this also effects body roll but its caused by tire roll. Correctly inflated car tires on a trike are an easy deal, wet a patch on concrete on your drive (not a puddle) and push your trikes rear tires thru the patch / if your tire width is not completely damp the full width then / if there is an area not as damp or dry in the middle increase pressure slightly , if the middle area is damp and the edges are dry or nearly dry lower your pressure.
This is a trike with car tires / Radials also and what's written on the sidewall as far as pressure does not apply to a trikes weight... contact area with the pavement is what matters. Also you do not rotate rear Trike tires... as said before they are generally radials and only rotate back to front same side. Now go ride around the block and check changes and re-measure.
Need more height in the rear... $$ change to air shocks, increase Progressive Shock height, changing to taller aspect tires or a different wheel & tire combination.... all of these also cause other conditions... increasing total height changes balance in corners and again the dreaded roll factor, changing tires or tire & wheel may throw off your speedo further by changing the ratio and always the possibility that they won't fit in the wheel well are may be very difficult to mount in the fender. Always check the manufacturers options for your trike kit to see what their optional tire & wheel combo is, they should know?
Well now we go to the front with less options but there are some. Lets start by saying most trike kits have some degree of rake kit on them, some kits but not all come with Fork Extenders like these shown here: http://cadtochrome.com/ctc/forkcaps/caps.html most of these are 3/4" - 1 1/2" and I believe taller are available but unsure where. Your trike kit manufacturer or dealer should know if your rake kit came with them.
These generally raise the height at the lower valance by about 1/2 - 1" at a max. although if your stock Goldwing GL1800 or 1500 fork springs are still installed they are most likely worn out unless you only ride one up and are a featherweight... There are ways to address the worst part on the best Touring bike we all own and they vary greatly... if you DO NOT have Fork Extenders here's your list...
Fork Extenders (check to make sure your trike has them or not) then its time to make a decision as to how long your fix will last / Rebuild your front end with another set of stock springs and new bushings, (my least favorite option) as you will still have the original problems surface later... then there's Progressive Suspension Fork Springs: http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit that some find to stiff... Then there's Traxxion's Suspension Fork Spring Kit built for your specific weight and riding style : http://www.traxxion.com/Fork-Spring-Kit-by-Traxxion-Dynamics-Honda-GL1800/ then there's Race Tech which has many options for you depending on your year of bike and whether its a 1800 or 1500:
http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx they are also weight specific with lots of options.... then there's what I call the total fix :
http://www.traxxion.com/Gold-Wing/ as the front end is really the problem I went with the AK-20 Total Fork rebuild back in 2005 when my front end started sinking, I measured my 2003 GL1800 prior to doing anything, on the center stand and everything looked good but when I was taking it off the stand and dropping it down to the side stand I was shocked when I saw the front end just sink through about half of its distance of travel...Unladen bike suspensions should not sink or dive... there was about 2 1/2" of travel left, when down sitting on the bike back then... so I knew I needed to get this fixed to cure cupping tires and handling problems.
So as I said I opted for Traxxion to rebuild my forks (this was in 2005 ) and I sent them off... 10 days later they where back and they really felt stiff prior to getting them installed... I had specified all the details required so it was installation time.... at this same time I had also opted to buy a Super Brace to also try.. as they disable the anti dive (no longer required) it was a fairly quick re-installation. The next morning I was ready for the shake down cruise, quick run to the gas station and I was already impressed and couldn't wait to get back home and get the spouse on for some hill country riding... and off we went.
Within 20 minutes the smile would not leave our faces... we rode for 5 hours with no comment but just amazed what this did for riding feeling thru the frame , controls and seat... so I was hooked and so was the spouse.... but lots has changed since 2005 / my bike is now a trike with many more miles of smiles but it retains all the same modifications as once I'm happy with something its hard to get me to change and to date mother Honda hasn't made anything to make me change.
This AK-20 installation brought my bike back up to 1" taller than it set when it was stock as a bike and only went down 1 3/4" once my 265 was on it as a BIKE... My TRIKE as of today with 1 1/2" Fork Extensions and the AK-20 setup is 5" Clear from the Roadsmith Wing Guard Running Boards... to the ground... I still try to avoid speed bumps!!
That would be my suggestion.
I had a CSC Cobra XL kit on my 2004 installed in 2011 and never had a problem with dragging. Now, my Hannigan on my 2012 is a different story. It is LOW... Not as bad as those Triglides, but still lower than my 2004.
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