Chieftain trike trail

[2ndchance]

If the chieftain trail is 5.9" before raking with your steer-lite kit what is it after using your 4.5 degree raked kit after triking the motorcycle. I'm wondering if not raking the Chieftain would cause steering difficulty giving that the OEM 25 degree rake promotes ease of steering.

 

[2ndchance]

I think I posted this in the wrong place

 

[Papa Zook]

I think I posted this in the wrong place

Nope, this is the right place. You'll get a response from Hannigan on Monday. ThumbUp

 

[FuzzyWuzHe]

Yeppers ... they are really great about answering questions.

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

2ndchance,

Thanks for asking. Hopefully this will not only answer your question but also clarify the Situation now and forever in the future

First, the Primary Purpose and Function of modifying the Front of the Bike when its Rear is "Triked" is to correct overall Geometry of the Unit/Trike. What was correct as a 2-wheeler is not correct when the rear is converted to a Trike. The measure of how "incorrect" it is does vary by Conversion and Manufacturer as the Rear Geometry differs in its Proportionate "correctness" as well. The Overall Geometry as a 2-wheeler is correct as it should be for the Bike. When One converts the Bike to a 3-wheeled Trike, the Front (Point A) must be changed as well to bring the Trike's Geometry into proper proportion (the relationship between Points A, B, & C as they act in conjunction with the Center of Gravity and the Mass/Weight of the Unit itself). If the Front is not brought into concert with the Rear (where possible), many Aspects of the Unit's overall Operational Dynamic will be Wrong making it perform much less than optimally leaving it lacking and incapable of being "All it Can Be". We see this Phenomena evidenced and Fact proven by the necessity of a Steering Dampener on the HD Tri-Glide. The disproportionate Geometry translates and gives rise to several Issues with Ride, Handling, etc. which then requires "treatment(s)" to counteract the "Symptom(s)".

Even with a Modified (increased Steering Angle from OEM 2-wheel FLH Platform) set of Triple Trees, the Unit still possesses inherent Geometric Issues which cause unacceptable/undesirable Effects in Ride and Handling.

That is just one Proof of Point and the Laws of Engineering and Physics as they inarguably apply to Trikes.

There are many others as well.

This is not meant to be a derogatory wholesale conviction of the HD Tri-Glide or any other Trike for that matter. Simply stating Facts as they relate to the Discussion.

We also see this on the HMS BMW K1600 Trike. Without correcting the Front, the Trike is an unruly Beast of a Machine which cannot be operated to any degree of enjoyment. However, once the Front Point A is modified and brought into a proper Geometric relationship with the Rear, it is an absolute Dream to operate and ride.

By properly designing the Rear with correct Geometry (varies by which Bike is at the Core) and then modifying the Front Point A to fit the Rear, there are no Issues or negative Effects to be dealt with or masked.

Proper Trail is one of the Facets and reasons to perform the Correction. By installing the Set of modified Triple Trees, you correct (where the Rear is also correct) the overall Geometry of the newly formed Unit/Trike. As such, it also corrects the Trail. So, with a properly modified Front End (Point A) to match a properly designed Trike Rear, the Trike's Trail and all other Operational Aspects of the Unit are "Right" and as they need to be for the given Bike that is converted.

This Correction (installing a modified Set of Triple Trees where so equipped) is generally thought of in Conventional Wisdom as "Optional" and solely for the Purpose of rendering it easier to Steer.

It does indeed have such an effect and leaves the Unit requiring less physical Input to push and pull the Bars (the Trike's "Rudder" to steer. However, that is just one Facet & Reason to perform the Correction and far from the sole and only reason and goal.

Furthermore, the Degree or measure of what the Front End Modification/Correction requires varies as well from Bike to Bike and Kit to Kit. There is no Blanket Answer.

What is right for one is or may be completely wrong for another. This is why some have experienced individual Issues and displeasure with handling after Triking and modifying the Front at the same time. The Front Mods MUST match the Back and the Bike/Core. Contrary to general Opinion and Mantra; One Size does NOT Fit All.

That's the "Long" of it and actually merely a Synopsis. An entire and complete discussion would take much longer and probably become overly-meticulous for this particular Post & Answer.

Should you wish to discuss further or have any other questions at all, please don't hesitate to give us a call anytime.

All the best to you and yours and we look forward to the opportunity to earn your Business and your Trust.

 

[2ndchance]

Thanks for your reply. I understand the dynamics you refer to in your reply. I am planning on converting a 2015 Indian Chieftain in the winter of 2016 with your Hannigan trike kit. I was entertaining the idea that I could possibly omit the steer-lite assembly and it would not have a significant impact on the handling of the trike (I'm in the process of gathering the funds to trike it). Do you highly recommend getting the steer-lite kit for the Indian Chieftain. I intend to visit you guys this coming spring for a look-see. Thanks in advance for more info.

 

[Hannigan Motorsports]

Highly recommend? For all the reasons explained in the previous Post and more; ABSOLUTELY.

Look forward to talking with you again and in seeing you when you come down. Please schedule ahead so we can make your Visit everything you hope and need it to be.

 

[msocko3]

I intend to visit you guys this coming spring for a look-see. Thanks in advance for more info.

Be prepared to meet some great folks, John Lee is a wealth of knowledge plus a heck of a nice guy to chat with.