What don't you like about your Free?

Not much, I have steadily changed things as the need came. I will say I sat an a stock free this past weekend and wondered how I bought this trike. The low reach seat puts me on the tank stock bars are way low. My custom Corbin seat and apes made the free mine and made it fit Me. Love it
 
Not much except for the reverse

The only thing I don't like about mine after a year of riding it is the reverse. They had to replace it once already. It's pretty weak. You really have to pay attention to where your backing. Other than that I love it.
 
The main 2 things are the wind buffeting and the passenger backrest is too far forward. The backrest could have been 2" - 3" further back and still allow the trunk to open. I have ordered the JES wind deflectors so maybe that will take care of the buffeting. There are a couple of weld shops in town that I will check with to see if they can fab a new back rest that will move it back giving the wife more room. Probably won't be cheap.

Sunman
 
Since riding is built around personal preferences, I think Harley has done a fantastic job with the FW. A few 3rd party companies are doing a terrific job in working to fulfill our various needs. DK Customs deserves a shout-out for sure with the work they are doing for the FREE World. All of the issues in this thread can or will be solved in time. The shift "clunk" mentioned is 100% a Harley trait that most HD owners like.

My issue is the V-Twin 103 motor running lean out of the factory. Many HD mechanics & sales reps have denied this to my face. I found even when the air/fuel mixture is balanced out, I am not getting the horsepower and throttle response (torque) I know is there. I purchased a tuning module (mfg. name withheld) with an app for the V-Twin 103 motor thinking this would get it done. I found that these modules are for the most part tuning to a generic chart. In other words, even a tuning module on a stock Road King will produce different numbers on a dyno than the Freewheeler. Same engine different results. This is because the are averaged out and typically the computer chips are created and assembled off site from the actual dyne site and if they fall into a +/- error area they are considered sellable.

THE GOOD NEWS: I spent some money and time having a tuning module developed EXCLUSIVELY for the Freewheeler! After I log a few hundred miles more, I will post a complete review including photos and video of the process. So far the results are far more than I expected. I in no way work for this company nor am I compensated in any way. I'm a semi-retired graphic designer. Making my expensive trike run and hum at its peak was personal with me. Stay tuned for a review. Might be a couple of weeks.
 
1) No analog tachometer for a Freewheeler

2) I cut the 'trigger switch' cap in half ~ the cap kept changing the digital tachometer to the odometer, trip meter A, trip meter B, etc.

3) I spent a year complaining about the windshield height (H-D only sold 16" or 20") but I *bought* a new FLRT Clearview shield to fix that problem.

After 1+ year, and about $2,400 in both H-D and non-H-D parts and accessories to address various deficiencies, I kinda' like it.

PS: When the electrical reverse dies, IF it's out-of-warranty, I'm buying a geared reverse instead.
 
The only 2 things I didn't / don't care for are the stock seat (replaced with sundowner, much better) and 2nd is the updraft have a set of JES wind deflectors on order hopefully they do the trick, other that that I really like it.
Red
 
The only thing I don't really like about my 2015 is the drive train noise and the clunk of the shifter. What about you guys?

My Freewheeler shifts great. Make sure your primary has the full 38oz of fluid in it, mine was low 5 oz from the factory. Also try the Spectro 75/140 6 speed specific trany fluid for Harleys, its pricey but worth it. Like I said my Freewheeler shifts great.

Ride Safe,
Bill G
 
Yada, that first gear clunk in the morning is sure scary.

Always look for flying aluminum.

I use Redline Shock Proof, another also works product. jm2c
 
clunk

Try holding your clutch in for about 20 seconds before shifting into first. You will be suprised
 
1) No analog tachometer for a Freewheeler

2) I cut the 'trigger switch' cap in half ~ the cap kept changing the digital tachometer to the odometer, trip meter A, trip meter B, etc.

3) I spent a year complaining about the windshield height (H-D only sold 16" or 20") but I *bought* a new FLRT Clearview shield to fix that problem.

After 1+ year, and about $2,400 in both H-D and non-H-D parts and accessories to address various deficiencies, I kinda' like it.

PS: When the electrical reverse dies, IF it's out-of-warranty, I'm buying a geared reverse instead.

I am curious as to why you would want to replace the electric reverse with a mechanical one. It should be easy to find some one to rebuild the drive motor if it fails
 
I am curious as to why you would want to replace the electric reverse with a mechanical one. It should be easy to find some one to rebuild the drive motor if it fails

You would think so..... But just like Life it isn't always that simple... Went though that with my Tri-Glide.
Thats why i went mechanical.. Do a search on the reverse motor...
 

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