Trunk lock ??

I apply a drop of light oil (Tri Flow with tube dispenser) directly to the base of the button (at 12 o'clock) so it lubes the sleeve it slides in and out of.

I do this at least once a month or when ever the button feels the least bit stiff to push.

I also put a drop in the key lock groove ring several times a year.

2014 with 24K miles and I have no trunk lock problems. It was dealer adjusted when I first bought it. I close and gently push until it clicks.

Bob :D
 
Chain and cable fluid and push the button in and out a few times then do it again with lube and push in and out..

They been sticking since the first models rolled off the line.

I also readjusted the cables etc when I had my 2010. Didn't have to slam it so hard to close the door
 
No disrespect intended, but I would never use WD40 on anything that has close tolerances like a lock.

My brother-in law used WD40 on the action of a Model 70 Remington rifle. He sprayed the bolt down & inside the action for winter storage & put it up for the winter. Spring time came & the bolt was locked in the action.

It took removing the stock & heating the action up with heat guns while soaking with penetrating oil. Took enough heat to almost ruin the blueing before it finally turned loose.

WD40 stands for is water dispersant formula #40. Nothing about lubrication qualities.

I always used it to dry out water from a wet distributor cap.

But that is just my opinion.............

- - - Updated - - -

Chain and cable fluid and push the button in and out a few times then do it again with lube and push in and out..

They been sticking since the first models rolled off the line.

I also readjusted the cables etc when I had my 2010.

Didn't have to slam it so hard to close the door

NEVER slam the door. You will destroy the latch .

Push to close. If that doesn't work, adjust the latch.
 
WD40

WD leaves a sticky film over time. When they used propane as a propellent, it was good starting fluid.
Now it's just good as a homeowner lube for squeaky door hinges.
 
WD leaves a sticky film over time. When they used propane as a propellent, it was good starting fluid.
Now it's just good as a homeowner lube for squeaky door hinges.

Started a few electrical fires also, Thats why the change over...
We would use it on the spark plug wires on our Snowmobiles and ATC's
After sinking them in a lake to get them started again...Sometimes the ice can be a little too thin!.... :cxtv: Even if you go real fast....:laugh:
 
I've had 2 TG's for 5 years now. Not one problem with the trunk lock.
I treat the trunk door like I use to treat my '68 VW bug's doors. Swing the door to almost closed (to push out the inside air because the VW was almost airtight), stop, and them continue with a firm push = works every time - never ever had to slam the door. ThumbUp

In the winter it's a little sluggish, but eventually will spring back out.
 
I've had 2 TG's for 5 years now. Not one problem with the trunk lock.
I treat the trunk door like I use to treat my '68 VW bug's doors. Swing the door to almost closed (to push out the inside air because the VW was almost airtight), stop, and them continue with a firm push = works every time - never ever had to slam the door. ThumbUp

In the winter it's a little sluggish, but eventually will spring back out.

:Agree: 100%, never "slam" the trunk door unless you don't mind purchasing a new lock!! The internal sleeve that hold the lock in place is made of plastic!! Don't ask me how I know!! :AGGHH:

Roger
 
Question on trunk lock replacement

:Agree: 100%, never "slam" the trunk door unless you don't mind purchasing a new lock!! The internal sleeve that hold the lock in place is made of plastic!! Don't ask me how I know!! :AGGHH:

Roger
Did you change the lock yourself? If so, did you use a valve spring compressor or find another way to compress the spring while you put "U" tab in to hold it in place? I guess I will not slam my trunk again!
 
Did you change the lock yourself? If so, did you use a valve spring compressor or find another way to compress the spring while you put "U" tab in to hold it in place? I guess I will not slam my trunk again!

My dealer replaced the lock via my extended warranty, but the HD Mster Tech is a personal friend and said replacing the lock "was a bitch"!!

Good luck if you are repairing/replacing yourself!!

Roger
 
I use silicone spray, directly at the button, then on the backside, where the mechanism is, I also hit the hinges at the same time.

I do this a few times a year...whenever I think of it, or when the button feels a bit stiff.

btw, on my '11, the mechanism was replaced under warranty...Before I started using the silicone.

Did not have another problem after that with the '11 or with the '14.

Kevin
 
Tri-Glide, Freewheeler? Oh wait, this was posted under Trike Conversion.....makes no sense to me! Think I'll go over to the "other site" where all threads are clearly marked. I'm outa here:gah::gah::gah::gah::gah::gah:
 
Froze the bolt on a Rem 700, now that took some doing. When I was in the Nam I was Navy Special Warfare and automatic weapons was my main thing. After geting out I gun smithed for about 12 years. Now to the point Tri Flo and Brake Free are the same with Rem Oil coming in third. We used mainly Brake Free at the gun shop because we could get it in a huge can. I still use either WD-40 is a problem waiting to happen in a can. I lube my cables, locks and anything else that needs to move with the top three. WD-40 makes a good flame thrower and wasp hate it
 

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