Tech Tech Tech, or...So you want to build a trike?

DeathBySnuSnu · Nov 24, 2018

If you use/have a stock type shifter mount is is imperative that the rod goes square into the mount and centers up under the shifter.

You will be forever unhappy with the shifting and/or adjustment if that rod is not square.

That also means that the shifter can only swing some from the rear joint. Bit if you use a buggy universal joint style coupler at the trans you can swing it further.

Bending a lot of offset or welding in a bar that has a big zig zag offset can only somewhat work. It will have to move much farther side to side to get the rotation at the trans. It will also make the reverse lockout hard to set up, as typically it is the travel stop for the side to side or neutral gate.

DeathBySnuSnu · Nov 24, 2018

If you need a lot of offset then the next level up is a buggy shifter box that is self supported.

With this you would do away with the original car shift rod all together.

You could use a universal joint coupler at both ends and offset it. The whole set up will be buggy parts with no instructions. You will have to work out the rotation timing adjustment.

stacebg · Nov 24, 2018

i have seen some conversions using 2 cables similar to what the chevy chevette had at least i think it was the chevette

Marc H · Nov 25, 2018

Chevette shifter box molded into the extension housing not cable operated.

DeathBySnuSnu · Nov 25, 2018

I do not know what a chevette has, but some fwd cars do have cable shifters.

There are at least 2 types of cable shifters for the vw trans. They are expensive and are used mostly on mid engine dune buggies.

PBS shifter that replaces the nose cone.

And the Mendeola that attaches to the vw nose cone.

They are quite expensive.... if I remember correctly around 600 bucks. Rarely see them other than mid engine buggies.

Cool thing is that the shifter can be mounted anywhere and any direction you want.

DeathBySnuSnu · Nov 25, 2018

Ok back on topic.

That self supporting buggy box above is for a stock type bolt down shifter. A shifter of the sort that would go into a car and bolt to the stock location.

Many of them use the stock reverse lock out plate. Then some have their own built into the handle lock out.

Then comes the buggy super shifter. It works just like that buggy base, but has it's own shift lever and a reverse lock out built in the base. It is a real good universal shifter at a reasonable cost

Trike-Man · Nov 30, 2018

Thanks for this Thread ……. I'll be watching and planning My Build …. May Have to Abandon the Hobby Shop to Build Her but A Man Has to Do what He Has to Do ….. Too much great info Here I will have to peruse it better …..

DeathBySnuSnu · Aug 23, 2019

Beefing up your rear brakes on a VW based trike.

If you are using a swing axle trans. (Up to 67) First you must replace the swing axle backing plates with 68 or later ones, so you can install the 57-on 22mm front wheel cylinder or the Super Beetle front 23.8mm.

Depending on year and model of your backing plates you MIGHT have to slot/enlarge the mounting bolt hole for the wheel cylinder. I have used a chain saw file from the hardware store to do this.

Also most front brake wheel cylinders that are installed on the rear are upside down. As in the bleeder nipple is on the low side and the brake line above. It can make it difficult to bleed, but it works.

On the rear of a IRS trans just install the bigger front wheel cylinders and slot the hole as needed. An advantage of the 68-on IRS rear brakes is that the brake shoes are about 1 5/8" wide compared to the 1 3/16" wide shoes used on the swing axle set up.

You also want to get upgraded brake shoes. Something semi metallic and good quality.

Along the lines of aircooled.net's "super stoppers". You used to be able to get the better shoes at your local parts store. But lots of this outdated stuff is getting harder to find.

One step better then the std. IRS rear brakes would be installing the Type-3 rear brakes (65 & earlier for 5-lug drums) Type-3 linings are wider ( 1-3/4") and the drums are larger in diameter and they already have the 22mm cylinders. Or you can use the 23.8mm front super beetle wheel cylinders with the T3 rear brakes. You will have to remove about .550" off the outside snout of the drum to use them with the swing axle short spline transmission. If you get the complete set up, backing plate, drums and all, it's an easy bolt on installation. 5-lug axle splines are 1 7/8" & 4-lug axle splines are 2 1/2" long Now there are other set ups that can be made to work, like some type-2 "Bus" and 181 "Thing" brakes, but they are hard to find and the price can be high.

Because disc brake kits have steadily gone down in price they would probably be cheaper than the Bus or Thing brakes. And disc brakes on the rear is by far the best brake set up as far as fade and upkeep.

To get better pedal you might want to install a 2-psi residual pressure valve in the disc brake line. Or a 10 psi if using drum brakes. Install the residual valve as close to the master cylinder as possible if it does not screw directly into the master cylinder. If your Master cylinder is lower than the brake calipers then you will need the residual pressure valve for sure.

Master cylinders work just the opposite as wheel cylinders. As the MC diameter gets smaller less pedal pressure is required but the longer the movement. The larger the master cylinder bore, the more pedal pressure, (but less throw), is required for the same braking.

The most common master cylinder used is the aftermarket 3/4 inch (19mm). If every thing is set up correct, there is plenty of fluid to do the job. But if the rotors are not true or the drum brakes are out of adjustment you might be lacking on the amount of fluid the 19mm bore master cylinder will push. The buggy 22mm master is very common but may require more pedal pressure than desired.

There are other master cylinders offered with bore diameters, 5/8" to 1", that you can use to adjust pedal throw and/or pressure.

Make sure the pedal comes all the way back after every time the brakes are applied. The brake rod must have a small amount of free play when the pedal is all the way back.

Make sure your pedal ratio is somewhere around 7 to 1. Pivot point to foot vs pivot to cylinder. You must have this mechanical advantage as it dramatically effects pedal pressure needed.

Use Dot-3 fluid and flush the system every two years. Hot & cold, sun and shade and part time use has a tendency to produce moisture in the brake lines much faster than if the lines are under a daily use car. Flush the brake lines with brake fluid, dry air or alcohol. One drop of oil in the fluid will contaminate the fluid.

Never get oil on the linings and forget the "brake clean" as it just dissolves the oil and lets it go deeper into the lining. Race mechanics won't let you touch the lining as even the oil off your hands is not wanted.