88 blazer trike

[LarryA]

Bob ....one method the guy in the video didn't mention was the broken back method of eng/trans to differential angle setup....It is sometime used by lifted trucks, but more by tandem axle (twin screw) where drive shafts are short,

but, take a google of broken back drive line geometry.....not saying it will work in your case but it can have advantages in short shaft situations.

 

[Fowler]

Bob ....one method the guy in the video didn't mention was the broken back method of eng/trans to differential angle setup....It is sometime used by lifted trucks, but more by tandem axle (twin screw) where drive shafts are short,

but, take a google of broken back drive line geometry.....not saying it will work in your case but it can have advantages in short shaft situations.

so I looked up broken back driveling geometry. but did not find a lot of info.

everything I read about a drive shafts with a single U joint on each end is that a parallel or a In Line setup is best as long as the angle is 7 degrees or below. I have read some that say I can go up to 15 degrees but I not sure about that.

Mine will be about 25 inches long and 4.5 degrees (4.573921259900861) with a Parallel setup.



If the distance between my yokes was shorter and I could not get below the 7 degrees then I would have to think about a different setup. I would use a double cardan (CV)

 

[grandpanystrom61]

Not the expert, but have replaced to many U joints on drive shafts in my days.

I have seen that 7 degree's, maybe a bit more, not what I like now that I seen the straight lined shaft setup.

I do wonder if your low degree and short length will make a great drive line set up. To me it does sound good and much better than longer and more degree's, but that is me. Please keep the updates coming as I am learning as you go.

 

[LarryA]

strange, that accepted drive line geometry is called unsuitable in that google image.....but these configurations are mainly used in trucks, that have low gears and high driveshaft speeds also. I have never used these angles, and they look odd but they are used often, and with the same joint angle at each end and yokes in phase they work......now, in your application this may not be desirable or needed. Maybe they are best left to trucks.

 

[Fowler]

I posted this message a little while ago but I come back and see its not there.

Well here goes again

I got my rear end tack welded in place.

It ended up 1/8 inch to far to the left (the right as you look at the picture)

I took all kinds of measurements, had it all strapped in place, welded in the rebar, took my strapping loose and it snapped back 1/8 inch to the left. I think the rubber tires moved enough side to side to throw me off some

My other measurement are still good

I don't think 1/8 inch from 1 side to the other will matter.

 

[LarryA]

I would not sweat that small error.....n.d. trike regs say centerline of rear wheels must be centered within 1 inch of the front wheel track. The dimension that i would watch, would be to keep the rear end square with the fore and aft centerline. Otherwise the rear end would in a perpetual turn, trying to pull the front wheel sideways.

Others, may have more and better information. just my .02

 

[stacebg]

View attachment 68080View attachment 68081strange, that accepted drive line geometry is called unsuitable in that google image.....but these configurations are mainly used in trucks, that have low gears and high driveshaft speeds also. I have never used these angles, and they look odd but they are used often, and with the same joint angle at each end and yokes in phase they work......now, in your application this may not be desirable or needed. Maybe they are best left to trucks.

best explanation

i have ever seen on the subject

 

[Fowler]

I got my link kit in yesterday

Overtime at work has been delayed so I may have to this weekend

I am looking at this as a simple diagram

 

[Fowler]

working on the side lower parallel pars first

They are just mocked up in place, held on with zip ties and vice grips

In the pictures the ends are screwed all the way in. I think I will screw each end 1/2 the way out in order to give me some adjustment room if needed

I also need to modify the rear mount some. The hole is not where I need it

 

[Fowler]

I got the lower parallel links tack welded in. Did a heavy tack weld.

I would have welded them completely but I did not want to lay down on the cold concrete

Will work on the top triangulated links next

Need to decide on the direction of the links

1



or

2

 

[LarryA]

Bob, from your previous drawings, it looks like you can go either way with the taper of the upper rods, as long a the correct angles are used. the only consideration to me, would be how can you use the space given. passenger foot wells, storage, battery location etc. I do know that every last area will get used for something!

 

[Fowler]

mocking things up this morning

The brackets that came with the link kit are set at 30 degrees.

I realize that I am using them in a different location than they were intended but they are still 30 degrees from center

What I do not like about them is the 2 shown in the pic below are only 3/16 thick. All the other brackets that came with the kit are 1/4. I may make my own or beef these 2 up

I was originally thinking of going with 45 degrees but anything over 30 degrees will be hard to do with the width of the frame. It can be done by changing the angels from \/ to /\ and then cutting the link bars shorter, but I am not crazy about that idea.

I need to drop the cross member down about another 1/2 inch

I will have to notch it in the center for the drive shaft. I will reinforce that area once I do that

The cross member is wider than I wanted but that is what I have and the local hardware store if out of anything else

 

[LarryA]

mocking things up this morning

The brackets that came with the link kit are set at 30 degrees.

I realize that I am using them in a different location than they were intended but they are still 30 degrees from center

What I do not like about them is the 2 shown in the pic below are only 3/16 thick. All the other brackets that came with the kit are 1/4. I may make my own or beef these 2 up

I was originally thinking of going with 45 degrees but anything over 30 degrees will be hard to do with the width of the frame. It can be done by changing the angels from \/ to /\ and then cutting the link bars shorter, but I am not crazy about that idea.

I need to drop the cross member down about another 1/2 inch

I will have to notch it in the center for the drive shaft. I will reinforce that area once I do that

The cross member is wider than I wanted but that is what I have and the local hardware store if out of anything else

View attachment 68722

I think if the upper tubes are 3/16 wall that should be fine....to me the weakest link would be the joint where the bushing meets the threaded rod. the upper and lower rods will share the rear end twist up under load...the only other load for the V bars would be sideways bending/shearing, but on a trike the cornering forces should be less than a car. my .02

 

[Fowler]

worked on it more today

its all in place but needs adjustments

On the top links they are 30 degrees and just a little higher in the rear

I am having a problem with my welder. It is not feeding the wire steadily. I think I need a new roller on it.

So I am not finishing the welding yet.

It moves up and down good.

Axle Up



Axle down



right wheel up



Left wheel up

 

[stacebg]

I am having a problem with my welder. It is not feeding the wire steadily. I think I need a new roller on it.

how many spools of wire have been through it?

when was the last time you changed the liner....

usually a liner w

ill get clogged b4 a roller wears out

 

[Fowler]

I have had this welder for at least 10 years so lot of wire has been through it.

It did this same thing a number of years ago. Back then I replaced the "pinch roller" Not sure what it is actually called.

The roller that grabs the wire and pushes it along.

I hope that is all it is.

tomorrow I will look it up and order one. If that is not it I will have an extra

 

[Fowler]

got the new roller in

works good now

Next weekend if I have time I will start again on the trike

 

[Fowler]

Hey guys

I just thought I would drop in

I just have not had time to do anymore work on this trike.

Now that my welder is working right I need to finish up the welds on my 4 link then start on the rear coilovers

For the rear coilovers I was thinking about the same I used on the front. I like them because I can buy different spring wt/rates in the future if I find I need something lighter or heavier

I may order them this weekend.

anyway not a lot of free time to work on it lately. BUT I will get back to it at some point.

 

[grandpanystrom61]

There are some chores that can wait, but it does seem like all right now take top priority over other things. Weeds just keep getting in the way, damn things grow to good. Just wish the grass grew that good. Sand is not soil and my yard had soil years ago, but so much sand cover is it up, just happy I got new trees to grow.

Well welder all fixed ready to go, need that extra time to finish up, it will come eventually and we can just hope we are not to worn out to take advantage of it, LOL.

Be safe, enjoy life and family.

 

[Eggman]

Awesome build!! Lots of great info.