I ordered the tool you suggested.
I will keep researching this.
I have to go to the torture house now. (physical therapy)
Thank you for your advise
Thank you
Bob
The only consideration I can think of, is to make your pedal linkage travel somewhat longer than m/c travel so as to accommodate the longer travel of the booster. You can feel the lost motion that is used to contact the floating valve in the booster.
Once I get that new tool in I plan to take the MC and booster off the trike to adjust it. While it is off I will connect the booster to my car to see how much it will depress.
I have most of the linkage fabricated now. I just need to figure out the rod length and pivot point.
I will take some pic soon and post them.
The next step i guess will be to run the brake lines, and check valve and ensure I have the right size wheel cylinders
I will cap off the ports for the front brake for now. Will need to figure that out later.
With my VW trike, after I installed the brake system I went to the top of the hill here and rolled down. That was a fun first ride.
Thank you
Bob
I think I have it now. Its just held together with vice-grips and I don't have the spacers or all the grade 8 bolts yet
I will tack weld it and see before I weld fully
I get about 1 1/2" depression on the booster
I took the MC off and it depresses about 1 1/2"
Thank you
Bob
I pulled the MC off the booster and took the measurement. with the new tool.
The 2 rods were touching. I screwed the booster rod in some. I have a gap but I don't have a way to measure it. I don't have anything that is .02
I tried adding some feeler gauges together to get the right thickness but them I cant get t in past the tool to measure it
I had to bend a wrench in order to get to the lock nut
At this point I have eyeballed it.
Thank you
Bob
I had to shift gears.
My wife has been having me make Christmas presents for people.
Almost done with them. Then will get back to the trike.
I got the brackets welded and picked up all the grade 8 bolts. Then the Ol'Lady put me on another mission.
Should have it all bolted together tomorrow.
I get a good pedal movement and the booster rod comes out plenty far enough.
I made the linkage adjustable in a number of ways just in case
Now I need to tear off the back wheels to check the brake pads and wheel cylinder size.
Then will order a brake line kit and plum the brakes
More Pics coming soon
Linkage off and on the floor. I may remake the right bracket bigger for I can use bronze bushings
Brake pedal not depressed and depressed
linkage at booster not depressed and depressed. I need to move the rod in the first pic to the right side of the linkage. I did not notice that until I looked at the PIC
Added a support for my seat bracket. Not finished yet. I can remove the master cyl still with this brace. The problem is now I have to redo the brace on the other side sine its not at the same angle.
fixed the brake rod placement and replaced the brace on the left side.
Im going to build the frame above the master cyl and booster to look something like the left side that has the battery box
I need to do some more research on the check valves I will need
Also
I need to run 2 lines.
1 line to the back brakes
1 line to the front.
the master cylinder has 4 ports (2 on each side )
Can I use 2 on 1 side and plug the 2 on the other side
or do I have to use 1 from each side
I'm not sure what valves I will use yet. I still have a lot more research to do.
I made the box over the master cyl yesterday. Still plenty of room to remove the master cyl and booster. Although I don't have the valves and lines to deal with yet.
I used something similar on my other Trike.
Do not argue with an idiot.He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Its dog eat dog world and i'm wearing milkbone underwear.
1989 GL1500 Goldwing (SOLD)
2006 GL1800 CSC
It is great to have the additional options
I appreciate any info you all want to pass on.
I'm learning and I am researching as I have time
There is some good brake info on this page (a video also)
https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/differ...s-brake-valves
Take this with a grain of salt...I am thinking the primary chamber on the m/c, (the one closest to the pushrod) should be for the rear brakes on your trike. (on a car this may be reversed? Then the front brake be adjusted with the proportioning valve. to balance the braking with regard to the final weight distribution.
I have not tried this myself...one trike of mine has a mechanical brake up front, the other has a separate m/c for both front and rear.
So food for thought only...