Fuel pak 3

[Trampas]

I have been looking at this for the future, I downloaded the app on a spare phone and have been playing with it in the demo mode, I put all my info as stock from harley and then another tune ended up in slot 1, stock tune is in 0. Went thru various items and looked at what everything was about, still not knowing what it means yet, did pull air/fuel mixture and seen that. I did notice with the other tune it had the rev limit at 5000, not sure what the limit is a stock harley triglide, I did bump it up to 6000. As I am typing this it is in auto tune, pretty cool, quite a few green blocks and that is what you want I guess, it is a learned value.

Does anybody know what the factory setting is for a triglide???? I know quite a few 2 wheelers have them set at 6200 but that seems high to me for a trigldie, maybe not, like I said in the demo mode it has it set at 5000, I did bump it up to 6000 and then had to flash it to the ecm.

Ok, I know I'm playing in the demo mode and not the real thing, just playing for now and trying to learn it if I decide to go this route down the road. Pretty simple how it works, just a phone with bluetooth and no laptop like some of them.

All for now Trampas

 

[rhino 2]

Stock red line with my 11 Tri was 55 hundred , With the stage 1 and ECM recalibration its 62 hundred now.. ...

 

[lah2420]

If I remember correctly, mine is at 6200 with the FP3 using the tune for V&H Power duals and whichever mufflers they said to show. I have not done an autotune. I hear mixed advice as to whether to run it with the cat gone. I run Screamin Eagle mufflers.

 

[DK Custom Products]

The factory setting for the Rev Limiter is 5300 (or there about). On a stock or Stage I bike there is little reason to set it higher.

The FP3 is a surprisingly good tuner for stock and Stage I bikes. We've tested them and been very happy with how they work.

If you are smartphone centric, the likelihood is high that you will enjoy using it.

Kevin

 

[Trampas]

My bike is stock completely and vance and hines said it would help, not sure I want to do it yet, time will tell, Kevin I was wondering and I have seen posts where you have to ride it at least a tank full in auto tune to get it better understanding of how you ride.

Now I have read where you have to ride pretty hard as some call it force it, not sure how that works, have read some do town driving and then go to highway and run it thru the gears and redline it a few times to get more cells produced. As laf2420 said he hasn't did a auto tune yet and have heard some don't because of the map that vance and hines sends is pretty good, I would imagine the map they would send me would be better than the way the bike is right now, I would imagine the air/fuel would be better than the stock one.

May be you can explain it a little better Kevin, pretty new at this, like I said it will be down the road a piece. I'm not a hot rodder anymore, more than likely I shift before I have to, but that is me, also know the power vision would be the same in auto tuning as this FP3.

All for now Trampas look

 

[TG Bob]

I am running the FP3 in my 2012 Tri-glide. I have had conversations with the techs at V&H with questions similar to yours. First there are no separate maps for trikes; V&H uses the same for both 2 wheel and 3 wheel as the engines are the same (just gearing is different). As for the auto-tune, the grid you are looking at, the green squares indicate a learned value for both cylinders, an orange square indicates a learned value on one cylinder.

The tech said the best way to run the auto tune is to ride for about an hour, stop and apply the learned values. Ride for another hour and again stop and apply the learned values. Ride again and after an hour this time hit "finish" to apply the last learned values and take the FP3 out of auto tune. The reason for this is the FP3 can only make a 15% maximum value change per apply. If there is a point in the map that needs 20%, 30% or more then you will not get it unless you do 3 ride/apply sessions.

For us it was easy; we went for a day ride and stopped every hour or 2 and applied the learned values and hit finish when we got home. I did try to use all throttle positions and engine RPM during our ride to get the FP3 to check values in as many map points as possible. I also noticed that the engine ran a little better after each time I applied the learned values. At the end I had fewer colored squares but I don't think you will ever get them all white. It is a neat tuning tool to work with.

 

[rhino 2]

Gallileo's law of inertia....

When i first got my Tri-Glide, After coming off of bikes and a Trike that you can rev to 7 or more grand, I kept bouncing of the Tri's low red line...So i had the ECM calibrated to 62 hundred a month after i got the Trike..2011.. Now in a merging or passing situation i don't have worry about hitting the red line and losing forward motion....And in all this time i never had to go to the full 62 hundred..

 

[Trampas]

I called this afternoon and talked to Kevin about the FP3, he explained it to me in layman's terms, so now I have a understanding about it compared to what I have read on other forums about it, should I say the hot rodders on 2 wheels.

Thank you Kevin for talking to me, really appreciate that, keep up the good work

All for now Trampas

 

[GARYD]

OK, I'm now ready to add a fuel management unit(never wanted to spend that kind of money before). First time modifying a bike. I just bought Cobra RacePro slipons/H-D Stage I A/C. My dealer is recommending the V&H FP3. I do not have a smartphone, but do have an IPod Touch if that would work. I don't want to keep messing around with it - just set and forget - if that's possible. I have a 2014 TG

I just want a little better fuel management/throttle response. I do about 12K miles/year. 50/50 highway/local

Opinions????

 

[Trampas]

From what I have seen your ipod touch should work if you have the latest operating system, don't know much about the ipod touch but when googled it looks like a phone to me. Check to see if it has bluetooth on it, will need that.

All for now Trampas

 

[geezerglide11441]

OK, I'm now ready to add a fuel management unit(never wanted to spend that kind of money before). First time modifying a bike. I just bought Cobra RacePro slipons/H-D Stage I A/C. My dealer is recommending the V&H FP3. I do not have a smartphone, but do have an IPod Touch if that would work. I don't want to keep messing around with it - just set and forget - if that's possible. I have a 2014 TG

I just want a little better fuel management/throttle response. I do about 12K miles/year. 50/50 highway/local

Opinions????

Power Vision with the Target Tune module and you will never regret it!!! :clapping:

Roger

 

[Trampas]

I think GaryD is looking at something that will work for him without spending a bundle, with buying the power vision plus the target tune you are looking at over $1,000 dollars just a rough guess without looking it up, I agree with you that would be great or just go for the TTS which would be cheaper, the FP3 would do just fine for him and not that high priced.

All for now Trampas

P.S. GaryD, download the FP3 on your ipod touch and start playing with it in the demo mode, that is what I did, I even took a screen shot of my afr table and took it to the dealer and showed the dyno guy it and he said that looked pretty good

 

[GARYD]

OK, so it will work with the IPOD Touch? That's great to hear.

$1000 = waaaaaaay to much $$ for me. I want simple and cheap.

 

[Trampas]

GaryD, the FP3 is cheap compared to other ones out there, as Kevin said in post 4 it works good for stock and stage 1 bikes really well, and now they have maps for cams as well if you decide to go that route. I see you are installing the Cobra pipes, not sure if they have them on there or not, they have several brands to pick from when I downloaded it to a spare phone that I had to play with in the demo mode, they have quite a few exhausts for their pipes so if cobra is not there they can tell you what muffler to use to compare it to yours, like I said download it and play in the demo mode.

Hope I explained this well enough for you, sometimes I have trouble explaining things, I have to agree with geezerglide, the power vision with the target tune would be great, but not everybody want to put out that kind of money, puts it in the wide band sensor instead of narrow band stock sensor, but for most guys the narrow band with the FP3 is good enough, have fun and let us know which way you go and how you like it.

All for now Trampas

 

[Trampas]

I was just on Fuel Moto's web site, you could get the power vision for $399 and I assume tax plus shipping. That is a good price for that, if you went that way they would send a map already loaded in the power vision for your pipes and a/c. You would have the support from Fuel moto with all kinds of maps. You could hook this up and download the map and when done go ride. This power vision also has auto tune on it but it has to be hooked up to bike when doing auto tune, most people I have read said the map from them with their equipment was spot on without doing auto tune, some have did it to fine tune the bike.

And as geezerglide said, later on down the road you could add the target tune module with the wide band sensors, up to you, most are happy with the basic power vision, from what I have read it will do more than the fuel pak. I know Fuel moto has maps for just about everything that they dyno tune and if they don't, Dynojet would have more maps, just a thought.

FP3 is a good tuner, but it is more for vance and hines pipes and their air cleaner, yes I know this is quite a bit to asborb, I have been on the fence for a month now and I haven't move on it, mine is still stock, no pipes or a/c. With power vision they have all kinds of maps for different exhausts and air cleaners plus cams.

All for now Trampas

P.S Guess you could call Fuel Moto and Vance and Hines and talked to them, I have and I'm still on the fence, I even talked to Kevin at DK Products with his knowledge.

 

[GARYD]

GaryD, the FP3 is cheap compared to other ones out there, as Kevin said in post 4 it works good for stock and stage 1 bikes really well, and now they have maps for cams as well if you decide to go that route. I see you are installing the Cobra pipes, not sure if they have them on there or not, they have several brands to pick from when I downloaded it to a spare phone that I had to play with in the demo mode, they have quite a few exhausts for their pipes so if cobra is not there they can tell you what muffler to use to compare it to yours, like I said download it and play in the demo mode.

Hope I explained this well enough for you, sometimes I have trouble explaining things, I have to agree with geezerglide, the power vision with the target tune would be great, but not everybody want to put out that kind of money, puts it in the wide band sensor instead of narrow band stock sensor, but for most guys the narrow band with the FP3 is good enough, have fun and let us know which way you go and how you like it.

All for now Trampas

I'm the same way trying to explain something - especially on forums or any text type communication. I am a complete moron when it comes to engine modifications and electronic crap. What is the purpose of the smartphone/ipod etc. other then being able to look at some pretty gages?

 

[Mojoron]

For what its worth.

In my mechanical brilliance, last year, actually 2015, I removed the CAT thinking that I was going to try to fix the hole I made by welding a piece of exhaust tubing to the rectangular hole I cut into the header. Removing the CAT was actually fairly easy. I used a large slotted screw driver and pried the CAT off of the exhaust pipe. Welding the repair? HA? It was tacked, not welded and it leaked. Anyway, I road the trike all summer and decided that I was tired of coughing and smelling like exhaust gas and during the winter purchased a set of Kuryakyn pipes and headers and to tune the mess, a Vance Hines tuner. Everything went pretty well except for removing the old mufflers and trying to fit the extensions on the new mufflers to the headers Harley welded the extension on one side, so in order to get the headers off I had to saw the pipe in half. It required a lot of patience and making sure that I had the bike up in the air high enough in order to get underneath it to be able to see what I was doing. I solved all the fitment issues and forgot to place the old O2 sensors in the new headers PRIOR to installing the headers into the engine. Consequently, the sensors were virtually impossible to torque down to spec without removing the pipes and remounting the whole frigging mess. Even with JIM"s Sensor wrench, the sensors were at such an angle that I couldn't get a torque wrench and the sensor wrench with the correct specs. In the process, I broke the wires in the rear O2 sensor which showed an open circuit on the VH tuner. I'm still waiting for an OEM sensor, but I did ride the bike a few miles and checked the error messages when I got back and saw the same issues: O2 sensor fault and a rich mixture on the front cylinder. I'm using a iPhone 7S btw.

The VH's had the correct maps for my new system, which I was surprised about. In fact, they have many maps for different systems, air filters, etc. I'm told they even have maps for different cams etc. I have about $1700 into the system, not including the O2 sensor which is $59 and two JIMS wrenches, one is $39 and the other $58. You can't use after market O2 wrenches since Harley went to a 14mm w a 13mm thread sensor a few years ago. Most older sensors are 7/8" and wrenches are easily found. The best way to salvage your sensors is to disconnect them from the main computer before you start taking them off. That is how you ruin the wires because you end up torquing the wires inside the sensor, and there are four wires.

All in all, the VH's is what most after market HD shops use to tune motorcycles since most of them can't afford the dyno equipment in order to tune exactly. I figure since they were going to charge me $100 to tune my rig, I just as soon do it myself for another $299. The only complaint I have about the App is that it will not save the error messages unless you are connected to the bike via bluetooth. It would be nice to be able to see the error messages while not connected to show the technician at the Harley shop.