Metallic rattle noise

[Cintibob]

I've got a metallic rattle noise coming from under the trike on left side near clutch or drive shaft area on my 06 Honda 1300 vtx Motortrike. The mechanic I took it to says he had another 1300 trike making the same noise but is not sure the trike manufacturer.

He had replaced the clutch basket, u joint and finally replaced engine with a salvaged engine and the noise got a little better but never went away. My trike likes to slightly pull to the right, nothing too bad.

He doesn't want to tear into mine not being familiar with trikes but has only seen this on my trike and the other one. I wonder if this is an alignment problem with the kit as if you turn right the noise goes away if if go straight ahead or turn left the noise increases.

It's annoying if you wear a half helmet but can't hear it in a full helmet. Nothing seems loose and the bike is level. Has anyone had this problem? I bought this used and the dealer who was up north never installed the unit for the speedo for recalibration I had to buy it and install it locally. What else did they forget?

 

[trike tech]

Ok,

I am changing my entire comment after re-reading your post (after some more coffee)...

It's not the engine, transmission, or clutch so please don't waste your time chasing down these avenues, you'll only spend money unnecessarily & increase your frustration.

It's the front heim joints on the ladder bars where they connect to the motorcycle frame; they're worn.

When the front heim joints wear, there becomes a "gap" that's out of tolerance between the ball & outer sleeve (see image). When the suspension is "static" the front of the ladder bar "floats" because there is no load applied & when you hit that "magic speed/rpm range" the harmonics get the best of it & causes the ball to "rattle". Loading the handlebars places a load on the front heim joint that removes the slack from one side of the ball or the other which is why the noise stops when you turn right. Typically, going left OR right stops the noise, but if the joint is worn badly enough this may not be the case.

Heim joints are a common part and available at most bearing supply shops (or online) for quite cheap.

One last word of advice. MEASURE from the end of the ladder bar to the center of the hole on the heim joint BEFORE you remove it from the ladder bar. That way you can be sure to get the new one placed as closely as possible to the original one.

 

[trike tech]

As an afterthought. I would measure the pivot pin sleeve that the inner part of the heim joint rides on as well (compare to new heim, not the old one). It's rare that the pin wears also, but this would be the time to verify. IF the pivot pin is worn, you would have to get that from a Motor Trike dealer as they are a proprietary part to the MT product line.

 

[Cintibob]

Thanks trike tech, i'll try that.

 

[Cintibob]

Trike tech, I went out and checked the heim joints on all the bars running from the ladder bars. The small lateral bar running over the top of the rear end moved front to back real easily too loose really, as a short fix to see if this was the cause of the rattle I tie wrapped it to the front bar. This was to provide resistance to rotation and 80% of the noise is gone. I'll have to remove this bar and tighten the bar as a permanent fix. The other joints look good.

 

[trike tech]

Trike tech, I went out and checked the heim joints on all the bars running from the ladder bars. The small lateral bar running over the top of the rear end moved front to back real easily too loose really, as a short fix to see if this was the cause of the rattle I tie wrapped it to the front bar. This was to provide resistance to rotation and 80% of the noise is gone. I'll have to remove this bar and tighten the bar as a permanent fix. The other joints look good.

Use caution in doing this. The "cross bars" that run between the left and right ladder bar by design should NOT be tight to allow proper suspension travel. They should "rotate" freely from stop to stop by hand. These bars being tight & not rotating is also one of the single most common causes for ladder bar failure, front heim joints breaking, as well as rear end structure damage. When you tighten these bars enough that they will not rotate the suspension can't work as designed; however the bike has enough torque that the suspension WILL flex to some degree which applies stress to the surrounding components which over time will lead to component failures.

Felt that would likely be good information for you to have.

 

[Cintibob]

I don't have a manual for the 1300 only goldwing. I made an appointment at dealer in central fla to check this there seems to be too much movement stop to stop. I'll let them make adjustments I think heim joints are bad. Rear end is half inch to far left also so more may not be adjusted properly.