Krome Werks 2+ 2 narrow sweepers.

firebikerd

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I just installed the 2+2 narrow sweepers on my 2015 Freewheeler!

I read a lot of the posts here and they are great Bars! They feel just right for my 6' frame and the 2" set back Mustang seat!

I love em on the trike!

Now as far as installing these bars: They are not really made for the newer internally wired bikes! Why you say?: The holes for your wires are to small to pass your connectors thru; you either drill or machine them wider to fit thru or you disassemble the plugs to run the wires thru! The holes are also in the wrong place! They leave about an inch and a half of exposed wire loom outside of the switch and brake/clutch housings; as well as the hole is exposed! You don't notice it on the bike but it's there!

The stock Harley Bars have a larger hole and is located to be protected by the switch and brake clutch housings when installed! I didn't take a picture of these new bars other than completely wired should have! I had to grind the holes larger to pass the plug ins thru; these bars are also dimpled or a channel pressed in the bars where the wires pass thru to accommodate external wiring

(others have stated this in posts), it grinds the chrome off = possible rust spot. Not too worried about it in Arizona but?!

If this indent was not there it would be very easy to pass the throttle by wire and other connector thru the bars as in the stock design!

If you have installed these bars you know what I am talking about here! I did not disassemble any wires from their connectors!

The throttle by wire harness is very long under you handle bar cover( which is very easy to remove 2 small screws under the black plastic pry off cover then 2 allan head screws hold your flat cover on) It will feed thru these bars from the bottom hole by just pushing it; no pull string is really needed! It was long enough with the green and the black connectors dis connected to stick out of the throttle end of the bars! Then I pulled(with a pull string tied and taped to end) the wire harness from the switch housing with the plug on it; thru the enlarged hole on the bars. It went thru failrly easy while holding the throttle by wire in place on end of bars! No grease!



Now came the fun part: you plug the green and black connectors of the throttle by wire harness back together; you must put electric tape on to taper the green plug and the black plug behind it to make the assembly as flat and smooth as possible not a lot of tape; then you pull the harness from the large black connector at the bottom on the bars which will only be barely sticking out that elongated hole. (It's nice to have helper holding the Bars at this point an others during this Ordeal)

It moves fairly easy; no grease, to the point where you can see the taped green connector thru the hole in the bars with the switch wires sticking out; at this point the dimple which is not necessary makes things very tight; pulling on the throttle harness and gently pushing with a small flat tip on the connector will ease it past and it will go to the bend in the bars and snug the throttle by wire mechanism in it's proper place! don't pull too hard at this point just enough to push that bugger in the slots on the end of the bar. If that depression which is not on the Stock Harley Bars was not there this (hole) ordeal would be a piece of cake!

I say re do the bars Khrome Werks to make them work with the new internal wiring only! No dimple and a hole the size Harley uses in the right place! The 2+2's are great on the Freewheeler!

It would be plug and play no wire cutting and splicing no wire from plugs removal! Harley part #69200034 Switch wire extension kit 10 inch is a must for easy plug in of your wires; it's $30 well spent!

I know it's a long post but this needed saying! It is difficult and do able! ( There are tags on the factory wires I just wrapped them around and taped them). Here's a pic of the new bars with the extensions plugged in the larger plug is the throttle by wire! you can see how short the other 2 are with out the extension!

Hbars1.jpg
 
Good post

I too have learned NOT to push too hard with these things

BUT ya gotta keep ur customers happy

OR face the bad JUU JUUU
 
Wires need to be removed from the connectors then re-inserted back into the connector after they are put back through bars. It just takes a small pin pushed in on the correct side to release the latching tab on the connector pin.

Bob :Dorag:
 
Its no wonder the dealers charge upward of $1K to changeout handlebars on the newer TBW bikes. If one is not intimidated by performing minor electrical surgery on their expensive toy, the work is certainly doable. As long as time is taken not to damage the terminals in removing them from their connector bodies, the handlebar changeout is possible for the "home" mechanic. Now, the aftermarket suppliers really need to step up & design their products better, to actually fit the bikes that their products go onto...
 
I have a 16 tri glide & it doesn't have the green plug on it & the wires are plenty long without an extension. Some Harley dealer told me it was something new in the 16 models.
 
Its no wonder the dealers charge upward of $1K to changeout handlebars on the newer TBW bikes. If one is not intimidated by performing minor electrical surgery on their expensive toy, the work is certainly doable. As long as time is taken not to damage the terminals in removing them from their connector bodies, the handlebar changeout is possible for the "home" mechanic. Now, the aftermarket suppliers really need to step up & design their products better, to actually fit the bikes that their products go onto...

Hey Pete; Right on comment!

Just got back from Sturgis over 3000 mile run and the bars are a great fit and very very comfortable! I had a T-Bag in the back seat and it was like riding in an easy chair! I'm glad I put them on!

And yes the aftermarket suppliers need to step up! These bars without the dimple and a larger hole in the right place would be an easy install for the Home mechanic! You can remove and install the stock wires on the "throttle side" in the STOCK BARS without using a pull string! I did it!

I did not cut any wires solder or splice or disassemble any wires from their connectors. It was do able but difficult on the throttle side!
 
Krome Werks 2+ 2 narrow sweepers or wide?

Thanks for all the info on options for handlebars. I’d like to try them. Being only 5’6” i can use a lot of help reaching my bars. Would the wide or narrow be best for me? Thank you for the help.
imagegif
 
Wide or Narrow

Thanks for all the info on options for handlebars. I’d like to try them. Being only 5’6” i can use a lot of help reaching my bars. Would the wide or narrow be best for me? Thank you for the help.
imagegif



Sorry for the late reply. I havn't been on here in a while!

I went with the narrow and it works great! The wide could give you trouble in the turns if your arms are not long;Your one hand may not reach the grip in a full wide turn. I have long arms and the steering is very comfortable with the Narrow width bars. These bars will come out and least 2" closer to you and you can tilt them back towards you for more if you want.
 
Sorry for the late reply. I havn't been on here in a while!

I went with the narrow and it works great! The wide could give you trouble in the turns if your arms are not long;Your one hand may not reach the grip in a full wide turn. I have long arms and the steering is very comfortable with the Narrow width bars. These bars will come out and least 2" closer to you and you can tilt them back towards you for more if you want.
Wide one's are 31.94" wide OEM are just under 30" The 2" up and the 2" Back really make a difference in posture the added width gives more leverage on turns and increases control in my opinion. I'm 5'8" tall with short arms. I have over 16,000 miles with these 2+2 Wide Sweepers and love them. Good luck in your search, what works for one may not for another. travel safe FredDSC00554.JPG
 
Wide one's are 31.94" wide OEM are just under 30" The 2" up and the 2" Back really make a difference in posture the added width gives more leverage on turns and increases control in my opinion. I'm 5'8" tall with short arms. I have over 16,000 miles with these 2+2 Wide Sweepers and love them. Good luck in your search, what works for one may not for another. travel safe FredView attachment 52250

I believe you have the Narrows as the wide 2+2 are 35-36" wide my bars are about 31.9 wide just a little wider than stock!?

The narrows were made to fit the Bagger front fairings! I believe somewhere in some Posts it was discussed about the width; some adds list the wide ones at 36" and the narrows at 31.9. 4-5" of extra width can be a problem for some people. I too love the 31.9's

I suggest you find a bike with the narrows on and see how you like them first! You can also put your trike in full turn and see how much your arms stretch. Then sit on your trike and close your eyes; wheel straight ahead and raise your hands to what feels comfortable to you if you were riding. Open eyes and see where your hands are! I read this in a post some where and it gave me a good idea what to look for.

Hope this helps in your choice; the Narrows are perfect for me 6" 0" and my seat is a 2" back Mustang.

Dave
 
Thanks for all the info on options for handlebars. I’d like to try them. Being only 5’6” i can use a lot of help reaching my bars. Would the wide or narrow be best for me? Thank you for the help.
imagegif

The 2+2 narrows are part number 300519 and are 31.9" wide. look at some other posts on here about the Krome Werks 2+2's
 
The 2+2 narrows are part number 300519 and are 31.9" wide. look at some other posts on here about the Krome Werks 2+2's
Sorry for the confusion it has been a long time from the switch I had to look up my invoice and measure for sure what they were. 300-517A 34.36" wide and the angle of the grip is 26.4 degrees I should have looked before I posted. travel safe Fred
 
Wires need to be removed from the connectors then re-inserted back into the connector after they are put back through bars. It just takes a small pin pushed in on the correct side to release the latching tab on the connector pin.

Bob :Dorag:

Easier said than done, watched a couple of YouTube videos that made it look easy but for the life of me I haven't been able to do it yet. Got frustrated and put it aside for now, I guess as a last resort l can cut and solder but really don't want to go that route.
 
E-Bay search for pin extractor tool.

Bob :Dorag:

Yee Haw finally got them (Dance), did find an extraction tool at my local NAPA, had to do a little filing on it so that it would fit the smaller plugs. But after removing a couple of them it turns out that a regular sewing needle works just as good once you find the right release point!

Now the next set back is getting the TBW connectors pass the dimple so that the TBW seats all the way.

I thought this was going to be a pretty easy change over from stock bars to Khrome Werks 2+2's but man has it ever been a pain, for me at least.

Just been plugging away at it until I get frustrated and then walk away for a bit. From all the reviews I've read should be worth it once it's done.
 
Krome Werks Narrow Sweepers

If you installed them and you are over 6ft and they worked, how will these work for me because I need something to help out - because I am short 5'-2" and have short arms.

I wanted to get the 2+2 narrow sweepers on my 2015 FLRT
 

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