V8 trike steering

KDHUFF

TOI -Virginia
Feb 16, 2010
97
0
millboro, va
for those of you with a V8 trike, and have the rods from the front triple tree to the handlebars say about 4 or 5 ft long,what is the distance between the rods at the triple tree and at the handlebar triple tree
mine are 12inchs at the front triple tree and 16inches at the rear triple tree.
if I move the rods closer or farther apart at the rear triple tree, would that change how hard or easy it would steer, mine is very hard to steer the way it is now
 
KD, Moving the rods closer at the handlebars will give you more leverage, thus taking less effort to steer, however you will loose travel distance. So if you shorten the width you will have to turn bars farther to get to steering locks. What front end you running? Cave
 
KD, You might want to weigh the front to see how much weight you have on the front wheel, the v8 i built was heavy enough on the front that i didn't feel comfortable using bike front, you may be pushing the limit of the capibility of the front end. You can see the front end I used on the v8 rat trike in my profile. Cave
 
thats kinda what I have been thinking. it sits a little low in the front (just less than half a bubble on the level) I think If I raise the front up a little to make it level and then put a leading link on it I would be better off.and move the bars in a little on the triple tree at the handle bar....never built a front end but willing to give it a shot.
 
Hey Caveman....having never done this before...just curious...do the links from the Handlebars have to stay fully parrallel, or could they be "Veed" in at the Bars, and wider at the Fork.....???
 
I thought about that myself, but.....I am limited to 12 to 13 inches at the fork due to body style once i pull the front of the body off, I will be able to see what kind of issues if have.I agree with cave, I think i need a heavy duty front end
 
Hello Skuuter, I like keeping them the same width, if you go closer at the handlebars you give up travel, if you go wider at the handlebars you give up leverage, just my opinion, Cave
 
12inchs at the front triple tree and 16inches at the rear triple tree.


In the trikes posted below each one on the front/forks are 12" and on the rear/handlebars are 8". It is a 4 to 1 ratio for every one pound you push on the handlebars you are applying 4 pounds at the fork. We have never had a problem with any of the steering with any of the 36 trikes. They all turn real easy. I applied a shock on my trike just in case it tried to shimmy and so far we have never had a single problem and no shimmy's. When I ride trike I usaually steer with one hand most of the time it is that easy to steer and I have my gas throddle on the handle bars just like a bike while others have a peddle like a car. As for the other fellows I ride with they say there trike steers just as easy and have never had a problem. Hope this helps.


Pictures by BigSam_012 - Photobucket
 
Oh one other thing I forgot to mention was the rake which is very important as to how hard the trike will turn. On my trike the rake is set between 34 and 36 degrees which makes for some easy turning. Many say it is the frontend you use as well but we have found the Goldwing's and the Yahama's 1200 and up frontends work really well. There are even some trikes with a 750 frontend that have been driven for years now without any problem.

You will hear all kinds of pros and cons about which frontend to use and how the weight is to much for motorcycle forks. I have been riding my trike now for 3 years and not one problem. I went to a cat scale and weighed my trike when it was completed and the frontend weighed 650 lbs. If you look at the pictures carefully you will see most of the weight for the rider is over the rearend or just in front of the rearend which keeps the weight off the front. The weigh and ratio are the important factors to ho0w well the trke handles and as of to date not one trike has ever had a frontend problem or any problem with the steering.
 
That does help,just need to figure out how to build a front end, I can do the work just the planning stage is killing me
 
I had a 750 honda front end on the trike and it bent and twisted. still dont know how that happened.
the rake is something I needed to know for best steering so thanks for that as well.
I have a new steering neck to weld on so that will give me more options for front ends I think
 
Yea the next step is a custom frontend for us as well. The frontend is aready designed now to put it together. Since we use square tubing for the builds the frontend will be the same using 1-1/2 14 gauge tubing. It is an easy build we just have to do it. We are going to use the same necks and bearings from the honds and yamahas that we have been using since we have never had any problems with this setup.
 
So far e have never had a frontend problem of any kind. When I first started riding my trike I was going around a curve on an on ramp and heard tires screeching really loud and thought someone was about to hit me or something when I noticed when I let off it was my front tire doing the screeching I was going way to fast. Because of this I now know my frontend will slide and the tires will screech before the frontend will fold. Not a way I wanted to learn but good to know just the same.
 
you get a chance, send me some pictures of your new front end, I really need ideas I have been thinking about a leading link front end, but am still undecided
 
. Since we use square tubing for the builds the frontend will be the same using 1-1/2 14 gauge tubing. <br />
>snip<br />
<br />
14 ga is only .074 ????? way to thin for a front end<br />
most bike front ends are about a .120 and that is a stock 2 wheeler<br />
<br />
we have used .134 wall... last one we did couldnt get .134 went to .187 little over kill ..... the moto is "build it strong you wont go wrong"
 

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