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Thread: Blown Fork Seals - Anti-Dive Mechanisum

  1. #1
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    Default Blown Fork Seals - Anti-Dive Mechanisum

    I am just about ready to change out a blown fork seal on the right side.

    In reading what I have been able to find, it appears that the anti dive mechanism that is mounted on the left side of the slider has been an issue and was wondering if there is a fix. I have read somewhere that by putting a spacer in between the bottom housing and the top plunger can sort this out.

    Came across this link as a possible fiX! https://www.ebay.com/itm/GL1800-GOLD...item41acc02415

    Then again, I have read that one shouldn't put a spacer in place..

    Any comments?

  2. #2
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B25bsaboy View Post
    I am just about ready to change out a blown fork seal on the right side.

    In reading what I have been able to find, it appears that the anti dive mechanism that is mounted on the left side of the slider has been an issue and was wondering if there is a fix. I have read somewhere that by putting a spacer in between the bottom housing and the top plunger can sort this out.

    Came across this link as a possible fiX! https://www.ebay.com/itm/GL1800-GOLD...item41acc02415

    Then again, I have read that one shouldn't put a spacer in place..

    Any comments?
    Honda's poor front suspension design has caused plenty of grief since day one. I have heard of guys putting a slug inside the anti-dive actuator and also the spacer you show. I did try that one but it didn't seem to totally kill the action. When I converted my 2015 with the Roadsmith HTS1800 kit part of that process was to install a short strap to defeat the anti-dive. It seems to work so you might want to investigate that direction.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  3. #3
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Ditto what Jerry GoldRush said. I was plagued with blown fork seal untils I did the 'fix'. No problem since and that's been a couple years, I guess it works.

  4. #4
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    I got so tired of trying to correct my front suspension on my current Wing I gave up and had a Traxxion installed. Big improvement.

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    Ditto what Jerry GoldRush said. I was plagued with blown fork seal untils I did the 'fix'. No problem since and that's been a couple years, I guess it works.
    And what was the fix?

  6. #6
    2500+ Posts Gold Rush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B25bsaboy View Post
    And what was the fix?
    I am no engineer so will not tell anyone it is OK to modify their brakes the way Roadsmith HTS1800 kit instructions told me to when I converted my '15 GL1800 in December 2015. They have changed how that portion is done so I expect there may be other changes as well. Give Roadsmith tech guys a call at 1-800-331-0705 and ask the questions.
    Jerry "Gold Rush" (aka: "SPOOK") San Angelo, TX
    2015 GL1800/Roadsmith HTS1800
    TOI - IBA #23804 (SS1K & BB1.5K)
    I'm like an old race horse..... I can still run the race -- Just ache more at the finish line and need more rest between outings.

  7. #7
    1000+ Posts mhgoldwing's Avatar
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    There is a spacer for sale that will keep the antidive plunger from working. HOWEVER, it is recommended that you change to stronger springs so the front end doesn't dive excessively in hard braking.

    A good mechanic can service both forks with new bushings and seals, install new springs. That is the cheapest way to improve the front end. Personally, I would use linear springs and not progressively wound springs.

    I have the Traxxion AK-20 cartridges, Traxxion 1.1 springs (heavy load), and Traxxion fork brace. It's expensive but if you're going to keep the trike a long time it is worth it to me.
    Wing with Roadsmith kit, Traxxion Ak20 cartridges and Accuride System.

    07 ST 1300 for two-wheeled fun!

  8. #8
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B25bsaboy View Post
    And what was the fix?
    For me it was the spacer, and that was before I had the Road Smith conversion done.

  9. #9
    150+ Posts Rowdy's Avatar
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    I made a spacer out of pvc pipe and bought a couple longer bolts. I rode my 1800 DFT many miles with the spacer and stock springs with no problems. Some people use a nickel with a hole drilled in it for the spacer

  10. #10
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    Lee H. Mann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rowdy View Post
    I made a spacer out of pvc pipe and bought a couple longer bolts. I rode my 1800 DFT many miles with the spacer and stock springs with no problems. Some people use a nickel with a hole drilled in it for the spacer
    So .... what would be the currency difference between a nickel in the US and the Canadian equivalent ?
    Jim Murphy
    EX-Lehman & Champion Dealer Owner Operator
    Iron Butt Rider 2001

    WHEN HELP IS OFFERED, A SIMPLE "THANK YOU" IS APPRECIATED.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee H. Mann View Post
    So .... what would be the currency difference between a nickel in the US and the Canadian equivalent ?
    That’s Easy. US Nicole is worth 5 cents, while the Canadian nickel is worth 3.5cents. This may sound funny, but the Canadian Nicole is 99.9% Nicole while the US nickel is nickel and copper.

  12. #12
    200+ Posts lgjhn's Avatar
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    I also totally agree with Gold Rush.

    I've also used the drilled hole in the nickel trick, but apparently,, it wasn't t soon enough and I ended up with a small leak. Early in the year, I went ahead and pulled both forks down and completely rebuilt them with all new parts; sliders, seals, fluid, etc. Per Zook's suggestion, I used a brand new pair of stock GW springs rather than Progressives. The ride quality is amazing compared to what it was. And Zook was right: for a trike application, the stock springs work better than progressives. Thanks, Randy.

  13. #13
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    lgjhn, your comment, yes, that was my experience as well, except I had the Traction stiff springs, they were way too stiff and high sprung. My friend and I tore it all down to ensure we had done the proper install, everything was as the instructions called for. Traction is a very good product I'm sure, just didn't work for me, so I installed new Honda OEM springs. That was 5 years ago, no problems with the OEM springs and spacer.

  14. #14
    2000+ Posts tfdeputydawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lgjhn View Post
    I used a brand new pair of stock GW springs rather than Progressives. The ride quality is amazing compared to what it was. And Zook was right: for a trike application, the stock springs work better than progressives.
    IMHO, fresh OEM springs are better than most after market, for 2 wheelers and trikes!!!!

    Also, IMO, servicing the ADV, to insure it works properly, is better than disabling it. It's there for a reason.

    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    lgjhn, your comment, yes, that was my experience as well, except I had the Traction stiff springs, they were way too stiff and high sprung. My friend and I tore it all down to ensure we had done the proper install, everything was as the instructions called for. Traction is a very good product I'm sure, just didn't work for me, so I installed new Honda OEM springs. That was 5 years ago, no problems with the OEM springs and spacer.
    Do you mean Traxxion????
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  15. #15
    3250+ Posts bikerbillone's Avatar
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    Whoops, yes, Traxxion.

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