Aluma TK-1 Wheel Chock placement

Dockem

New member
Jul 13, 2011
1,524
5,160
Cville, IN / Leesburg, FL
I have a new TK-1 trailer that my brother picked up for me in SC. I will get it from him this weekend. We would like to install the front wheel chock and then in 3 weeks, I will travel home to Indiana with the trailer to load up my trike: 2008 GW/Roadsmith w/ 5 1/2 degree Rake Kit. Our Pacifica van is more than adequate to pull the trike/trailer.

Basically, we'd like to get the front wheel chock installed before I go to get the trike. Could someone please tell me the average measurement for how far back from the cargo box you placed the front wheel chock? Again, my trike is a 2008 GW/Roadsmith w/ 5 1/2 degree Rake Kit.

I know that some people have used a weight scale to get a measurement of 10-15% for the tongue weight, but the trike and trailer are currently 1000 miles apart, and I would like to have the trailer ready to haul the trike south to Florida before the snow flies up north.

10 -15% tongue weight seems to be giving a pretty fair amount of leeway on placement of the trike for wheel chock placement. I can't think 1-2" in placement would make too much difference. Ordinarily, I would try to be more precise. Pictures I have seen on other GW trikes on the TK-1 seem to show the front of the wheelchock as being not too far back from the cargo box.

The salesperson at the dealer only warned about not drilling a hole thru the frame when installing it (!).

Thanks for help.

Jim aka Dockem
 
Jim,

Please take the time to install your wheel stop only with your trike loaded on the TK-1 trailer. I tried having the wheel stop mounted using a predetermined distance from similar trikes. The results were disappointing. I ended up exceeding the 10 to 15 % range of tongue weight which was beyond my tow vehicle's capability.

I ultimately had to relocate the wheel stop, with my trike on the trailer, using a bathroom scale to get the proper tongue weight. Aluma trailer decking spans are about 4 3/8". That is the spacing required to get the wheel stop bolts through the center of the spans properly. You will be amazed how much 4 3/8" will effect tongue weight.

Don't forget to calculate your tool box weight loaded with stuff and other items such as a tongue mounted spare tire. These items need to be factored into the placement of the wheel stop. That is why it's best to place the wheel stop based on these factors.

You will really enjoy the trailer.ThumbUp
 
I estimated the 10-15% range as 175-260# +/- 20 pounds. If this difference is significant for you then I also think you should wait and only mount wheel chock with trike on board and trailer fully loaded.

Mounting the wheel chock should take very little time once you determine its desired location.
 
Jim,

Please take the time to install your wheel stop only with your trike loaded on the TK-1 trailer. I tried having the wheel stop mounted using a predetermined distance from similar trikes. The results were disappointing. I ended up exceeding the 10 to 15 % range of tongue weight which was beyond my tow vehicle's capability.

I ultimately had to relocate the wheel stop, with my trike on the trailer, using a bathroom scale to get the proper tongue weight. Aluma trailer decking spans are about 4 3/8". That is the spacing required to get the wheel stop bolts through the center of the spans properly. You will be amazed how much 4 3/8" will effect tongue weight.

Don't forget to calculate your tool box weight loaded with stuff and other items such as a tongue mounted spare tire. These items need to be factored into the placement of the wheel stop. That is why it's best to place the wheel stop based on these factors.

You will really enjoy the trailer.ThumbUp

Thanks for giving me some reality medicine. Guestimating won't save me that much time, especially if it is way off..

My Pacifica has a hitch with a tongue wt. rating of 500 and a tow capacity of 4000, more than enough for the job.

Last year, I talked with a fellow traveller that used his Pacifica to pull his Tri Glide in an enclosed trailer along with luggage and household goods - he had headed north to escape Hurr. Irma. He had no problems after tipping the scales upwards with his load.

Just so I understand you, are you saying that you put the wheel chock bolts through the center of the cross member spans? Just want to make sure after what the sales person told my brother (Not to go through frame spans.) It makes more sense to do so for a more solidly anchored wheel chock.

Thanks.
 
Just so I understand you, are you saying that you put the wheel chock bolts through the center of the cross member spans? Just want to make sure after what the sales person told my brother (Not to go through frame spans.) It makes more sense to do so for a more solidly anchored wheel chock.

Thanks.

No, the bolts are going between the I-beam cross member spans through the deck material. Do not drill through the cross member spans. If you are using the wheel stop(chock) provided by Aluma, the kit comes with about 1.5" wide steel backing plate strips used to stiffen the deck material.

This will all make more sense after looking at my bolt connection picture below. The picture was taken looking from the right side of the trailer:

Aluma.jpg
 
Dave,

Now I'm going to show my rank Noobee status.

Are there any tips to make it easier to load the trike onto the trailer and get the tongue weight? I figure on hitching up the trailer to the vehicle to prevent the trailer from tipping (I don't have support/stabilizer stands on the trailer.) Then I can get the tongue weight from there.

Jim
 
Dave,

Now I'm going to show my rank Noobee status.

Are there any tips to make it easier to load the trike onto the trailer and get the tongue weight? I figure on hitching up the trailer to the vehicle to prevent the trailer from tipping (I don't have support/stabilizer stands on the trailer.) Then I can get the tongue weight from there.

Jim

When ever i had to trailer my toys, Be it the Trikes 'Bikes' ATV's or the Rhino... I would leave the trailer hooked to the vehicle, And i would just eye ball it and have the heavy part of the towed toy over [or close to] to trailers axle......Been doing it that way for 30 years now with out a problem...Too little weight on the tongue is worst than too much, With too little you'll have the trailer wagging back and forth at speeds....AKA; The tail wagging the Dog....
 
TK1 Trailer questions.

Dave and Jim. I apologize if I'm hi-jacking but I'm ready to pull the trigger on a TK1. I have a lead on a new/never titled 2016 model. Full 5 year warranty. Is $2470 good, bad or ballpark for this? Tire age is the only negative I can think of.

The dealer will install the wheel chock for me. My thoughts are to take the trike there and load it on the trailer. I have a bathroom scale I can take. The trailer is #390 and the Tri-Glide is #1200 + fluids and "stuff" in the trunks. 10%-15% is roughly #165 to #245. Should I shoot for around #180 and allow for things in the front box and a spare tire?
 
Dave and Jim. I apologize if I'm hi-jacking but I'm ready to pull the trigger on a TK1. I have a lead on a new/never titled 2016 model. Full 5 year warranty. Is $2470 good, bad or ballpark for this? Tire age is the only negative I can think of.

The dealer will install the wheel chock for me. My thoughts are to take the trike there and load it on the trailer. I have a bathroom scale I can take. The trailer is #390 and the Tri-Glide is #1200 + fluids and "stuff" in the trunks. 10%-15% is roughly #165 to #245. Should I shoot for around #180 and allow for things in the front box and a spare tire?

Bill,

The correct empty weight of the TK-1 trailer is closer to 525#. The spare tire and rim weight is approximately 50#. Your toolbox may end up with another 50 plus pounds. This totals to about 1825# with your trike. A 10 % minimum tongue weight will equate to about 183#.

I set my loaded tongue weight to about 210# with a similar total trike and trailer weight of 1825#. I can run at highway speeds and make quick lane changes all day long without any trailer sway at this setting. If you have a strong vehicle capable of handling more tongue weight, by all means add some more towards the 15 % end. It's always better to have more tongue weight than less.

I cannot say one way or another if the purchase price is a fair market price compared to purchasing new. I would recommend that you check the wear bars on the tires and check for tire "dry rot" especially if the trailer was parked outside in the elements.

:Congrats: on the trailer if you are able to negotiate a fair price.
 
Dave and Jim. I apologize if I'm hi-jacking but I'm ready to pull the trigger on a TK1. I have a lead on a new/never titled 2016 model. Full 5 year warranty. Is $2470 good, bad or ballpark for this? Tire age is the only negative I can think of.

The dealer will install the wheel chock for me. My thoughts are to take the trike there and load it on the trailer. I have a bathroom scale I can take. The trailer is #390 and the Tri-Glide is #1200 + fluids and "stuff" in the trunks. 10%-15% is roughly #165 to #245. Should I shoot for around #180 and allow for things in the front box and a spare tire?

2019 Aluma TK-1 Trike Trailer $2725.00, this is about the price I see in the Kansas City area.

Around here you don't find any hold-overs like you found, you just don't see many used either.
 
David. Thanks for the info. I think I'll shoot for the #210.

Delbert. Couldn't find one around here new, or used. Went to a dealer that I got from the Aluma website to ask if they could order one. They told me about this one that they had on one of their satellite lots. They discounted it because or the age on the tires.

Yep, new/ never titled 0 miles. Dusty from being on the gravel lot. I called, and will pick it up tomorrow.
 
David. Thanks for the info. I think I'll shoot for the #210.

Delbert. Couldn't find one around here new, or used. Went to a dealer that I got from the Aluma website to ask if they could order one. They told me about this one that they had on one of their satellite lots. They discounted it because or the age on the tires.

Yep, new/ never titled 0 miles. Dusty from being on the gravel lot. I called, and will pick it up tomorrow.

Bill,

If the trailer you are planning to purchase does not have electric brakes, please make sure your tow vehicle is rated and capable of stopping your loaded trailer weight of 1825#.

Also make sure the loaded trailer tongue is level when connected to your tow vehicle.

I had to use a totally different ball mount.
 
David. Thanks for the info. I think I'll shoot for the #210.

Delbert. Couldn't find one around here new, or used. Went to a dealer that I got from the Aluma website to ask if they could order one. They told me about this one that they had on one of their satellite lots. They discounted it because or the age on the tires.

Yep, new/ never titled 0 miles. Dusty from being on the gravel lot. I called, and will pick it up tomorrow.

I think you made a good buy.
 
Here are some other good options to consider for Aluma trailers:

Aluma4.JPG

I attached 2"' wide strip of 3M non-slip sidewalk tape available from the big box stores. I ran this strip almost the entire length of the center line of the deck. I found it helpful in lining up the trike and keeping the trike centered while loading. The only thing I would recommend would be to use the wider tape which is about 4" instead of the 2". Proper cleaning and preparation before application of the tape is a must.

Aluma3.JPG

As I have already mentioned in a previous post, I relocated the wheel stop back one step (4 3/8")to the next full span of cross beams. I now have two locations to quickly mount the factory furnished wheel stop. One location yields about 285# of tongue weight. The other location yields about 210# of tongue weight. If I ever change out tow vehicles, I have the option to use either tongue weight. You can also see the other end of the 3M non-slip guide tape.

Aluma2.JPG

This is another photo of the wheel stop bolt hole patterns with the wheel stop removed. I also had installed, from the factory, 2 extra recessed tie downs place about 10" back and about 1" wider than the 2 front stock recessed tie downs. The extra tie downs have really come in handy and work especially well for the Goldwing setup.

Aluma1.JPG

I had a tongue mounted spare tire included with the purchase. This has turned out to be a real good use of space too. The wheel jack folds out of the way.

Finally, I suggest you purchase a good quality metal license plate support bracket and frame. This is my only negative with Aluma trailers. They provide an inexpensive plastic bracket that will break within the first 50 miles at highway speeds. The bracket is mounted under the tailight support tubing and will catch wind like a sail.

My home state Florida, will not allow plates to be bolted to the fender without the proper lighting. So I opted for a heavy duty license plate bracket and reinforced it with 1" x 1/4" flate plate plate steel. Problem solved. Hopefully Aluma has rectified this issue on their 2018 models and later.
 
Dave and Jim. I apologize if I'm hi-jacking but I'm ready to pull the trigger on a TK1. I have a lead on a new/never titled 2016 model. Full 5 year warranty. Is $2470 good, bad or ballpark for this? Tire age is the only negative I can think of.

The dealer will install the wheel chock for me. My thoughts are to take the trike there and load it on the trailer. I have a bathroom scale I can take. The trailer is #390 and the Tri-Glide is #1200 + fluids and "stuff" in the trunks. 10%-15% is roughly #165 to #245. Should I shoot for around #180 and allow for things in the front box and a spare tire?

Bill,

I got mine as a stripped down 2017. $1800, bought the spare tire/wheel and mounting bracket for about $325 (I think) from the factory. Doing the spare carrier bracket and wheel chock install myself w/ help of brother (hence this thread). From what I've seen advertised, you did pretty good. I've seen other stripped down TK-1s for $2900+.
 

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