Changing Handlebars; Electric throttle concerns.

[Bikerjw51]

I have a 2012 Tri that came with after market, multi-positioning handlebars. They are nice bars and no doubt cost a chunk of change. My problem is, that no matter what position or angle I adjust them to, my shoulders hurt after a long days ride. I've had 3 shoulder surgeries; having the bars at the proper angle is extremely important. After sitting on a few Tri's with factory bars I have decided to go back to the original style bars. I'm getting ready to leave on a 5000 mile trip in a month and would like to have this finished soon.

I've watched several videos on how to swap them out, my only real concern is the electric throttle cable and wiring plug. Does anyone have experience doing this type of swap out?

I'm really not into paying HD $500 labor to do this job.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sidecarbill]

Not being a smartass. But if they're adjustable, can't you just adjust them to replicate stock bars. Having 4 shoulder surgeries myself I'm not sure you'll ever achieve your goal. I try to pull more than push. No matter what I do I'll be sore at the end of the day.

 

[TonkaDriver]

I did a handlebar swap and it really isn't as hard as it looks. Just take it slow and take pics of each step as you disassemble. I watched several different videos and found the one that was closest to my swap and had it pulled up on my tablet in my shop for reference as I progressed. Depinning the throttle by wire plug was the process where this helped the most. Make sure you have a pick or a jewelers screwdriver for the plug. A nut tied to some cord will help to fish the wire through the bars.

Hope this helps.

Kurt

 

[DK Custom Products]

I have a 2012 Tri that came with after market, multi-positioning handlebars. They are nice bars and no doubt cost a chunk of change. My problem is, that no matter what position or angle I adjust them to, my shoulders hurt after a long days ride. I've had 3 shoulder surgeries; having the bars at the proper angle is extremely important. After sitting on a few Tri's with factory bars I have decided to go back to the original style bars. I'm getting ready to leave on a 5000 mile trip in a month and would like to have this finished soon.

I've watched several videos on how to swap them out, my only real concern is the electric throttle cable and wiring plug. Does anyone have experience doing this type of swap out?

I'm really not into paying HD $500 labor to do this job.

Thanks in advance.

I know you've already decided to go back to the factory bars....BUT....

This is a problem a lot of folks have...getting their bars/grips in the best position.

I find that most folks "settle" and end up having less than the ideal position for their grips.

Those of us with shoulder problems end up suffering more than most when the bars are not in the best possible position.

Before going to the work of changing out the bars, take a look at this simple process that will absolutely identify the best possible position for the grips...once you find that, my recommendation is that you do not "settle" for anything other than the best position for you.

Entire Comfort Triangle Article at this LINK.

Excerpt-

This is a tried & true way to find the most comfortable handlebar position-

• Sit on your trike
  
• Put your feet on the floorboards
  
• Close your eyes
  
• Put your hands out to where it is most comfortable to hold them
  
• Open your eyes...where ever your hands are, that is where you want the handlebar grips to be
  

Kevin

 

[Bikerjw51]

Not being a smartass. But if they're adjustable, can't you just adjust them to replicate stock bars. Having 4 shoulder surgeries myself I'm not sure you'll ever achieve your goal. I try to pull more than push. No matter what I do I'll be sore at the end of the day.

I've tried multiple positions, but the geometry of the bars just doesn't give me a comfortable natural feel. It's one of those situations where you'd have to see it to understand. Thanks

 

[Bikerjw51]

I did a handlebar swap and it really isn't as hard as it looks. Just take it slow and take pics of each step as you disassemble. I watched several different videos and found the one that was closest to my swap and had it pulled up on my tablet in my shop for reference as I progressed. Depinning the throttle by wire plug was the process where this helped the most. Make sure you have a pick or a jewelers screwdriver for the plug. A nut tied to some cord will help to fish the wire through the bars.

Hope this helps.

Kurt

It's the plug that has me concerned. I have some pin extractors, but knowing there are various kinds of pins in use; I worry about damaging them to the point of uselessness.

Thanks for the tip about the pick, I'm aware I'll need a pull wire.

 

[Bikerjw51]

I know you've already decided to go back to the factory bars....BUT....

This is a problem a lot of folks have...getting their bars/grips in the best position.

I find that most folks "settle" and end up having less than the ideal position for their grips.

Those of us with shoulder problems end up suffering more than most when the bars are not in the best possible position.

Before going to the work of changing out the bars, take a look at this simple process that will absolutely identify the best possible position for the grips...once you find that, my recommendation is that you do not "settle" for anything other than the best position for you.

Entire Comfort Triangle Article at this LINK.

Excerpt-

This is a tried & true way to find the most comfortable handlebar position-

• Sit on your trike
  
• Put your feet on the floorboards
  
• Close your eyes
  
• Put your hands out to where it is most comfortable to hold them
  
• Open your eyes...where ever your hands are, that is where you want the handlebar grips to be
  

Kevin

I'm aware of this process. That's my motivation, getting the bars/grips into a natural position. Thanks for the Link

 

[WalterM817]

Swapping bars.

I’ve done bar swaps before and like most here say it’s more work than you think but it’s doable.. I recall using a piece of unused heat shrink to remove connector wires. No doubt there are better choices but it’s what I had.

check to see if there is a wire extender kit for the swap. I soldered all my connections and shrink wrapped but a plug in alternative would have been great. You may not need one but I did. If you can get one you won’t have to stagger the hand splices as I did to bundle them back through the new bars. It just gives you an easier time all around.

This will also be plug and play which means you will not have to trace any wiring to the connectors etc.

The only other thing I had trouble with was the little tab on the clutch perch. I broke mine and had to replace it. You can get by without it but it helps align the left handlebar switches easily.

Use a a lot of lube in the bars to help fish it all through.

 

[Bikerjw51]

I’ve done bar swaps before and like most here say it’s more work than you think but it’s doable.. I recall using a piece of unused heat shrink to remove connector wires. No doubt there are better choices but it’s what I had.

check to see if there is a wire extender kit for the swap. I soldered all my connections and shrink wrapped but a plug in alternative would have been great. You may not need one but I did. If you can get one you won’t have to stagger the hand splices as I did to bundle them back through the new bars. It just gives you an easier time all around.

This will also be plug and play which means you will not have to trace any wiring to the connectors etc.

The only other thing I had trouble with was the little tab on the clutch perch. I broke mine and had to replace it. You can get by without it but it helps align the left handlebar switches easily.

Use a a lot of lube in the bars to help fish it all through.

Thanks for the info and tips.

 

[ultrafxr]

Helped a friend swap bars on his 2011 Road Glide a few years back and it was the first time I'd done it. Not terribly difficult but it was time consuming especially de-pinning all the connectors and making photos and diagrams to be sure we'd get them reassembled properly.

Thought I'd mention this for others who may plan to swap bars. Unfortunately this does not help you but the newer bikes with the canbus system have the much smaller JAE connectors. When I swapped bars on my 2018 TG I was able to pull all the connectors through the bars. No de-pinning required. So very much easier.

 

[Bikerjw51]

Helped a friend swap bars on his 2011 Road Glide a few years back and it was the first time I'd done it. Not terribly difficult but it was time consuming especially de-pinning all the connectors and making photos and diagrams to be sure we'd get them reassembled properly.

Thought I'd mention this for others who may plan to swap bars. Unfortunately this does not help you but the newer bikes with the canbus system have the much smaller JAE connectors. When I swapped bars on my 2018 TG I was able to pull all the connectors through the bars. No de-pinning required. So very much easier.

:clapping:

Apparently the motor company learned to make things a little easier. Not for the average Joe, probably for production purposes.

 

[ultrafxr]

:clapping:

Apparently the motor company learned to make things a little easier. Not for the average Joe, probably for production purposes.

I'm no electrical expert (or even that knowledgeable a hobbyist, lol) but I do think it is due to the newer canbus systems - lots fewer wires required hence smaller plugs. But it does work to our benefit for sure.

 

[Fearless]

I have a 2012 Tri that came with after market, multi-positioning handlebars. They are nice bars and no doubt cost a chunk of change. My problem is, that no matter what position or angle I adjust them to, my shoulders hurt after a long days ride. I've had 3 shoulder surgeries; having the bars at the proper angle is extremely important. After sitting on a few Tri's with factory bars I have decided to go back to the original style bars. I'm getting ready to leave on a 5000 mile trip in a month and would like to have this finished soon.

I've watched several videos on how to swap them out, my only real concern is the electric throttle cable and wiring plug. Does anyone have experience doing this type of swap out?

I'm really not into paying HD $500 labor to do this job.

Thanks in advance.

I changed my bars in 2014 to Khrome Werks 2+2 wide sweepers. The back and shoulder pain I was having with OEM bars was horrible, the forward leaning posture was killing me. If I had not found these bars I was ready to sell the trike and call it quits. The grip angle is straighter by a few degrees the width is about four inches wider this is like adding power steering to the trike and really helped my smashed up right wrist. Good luck in your search I changed these myself for less than Two Hundred bucks a longer clutch cable was all that was needed. Changing bars is not rocket science this was the first attempt at wrenching on the Harley. If you take your time and get a shop manual or down load the sections you need to get it right. Ball end allens for the radio screws they are at an angle that was the only thing I didn't have

 

[Bikerjw51]

I changed my bars in 2014 to Khrome Werks 2+2 wide sweepers. The back and shoulder pain I was having with OEM bars was horrible, the forward leaning posture was killing me. If I had not found these bars I was ready to sell the trike and call it quits. The grip angle is straighter by a few degrees the width is about four inches wider this is like adding power steering to the trike and really helped my smashed up right wrist. Good luck in your search I changed these myself for less than Two Hundred bucks a longer clutch cable was all that was needed. Changing bars is not rocket science this was the first attempt at wrenching on the Harley. If you take your time and get a shop manual or down load the sections you need to get it right. Ball end allens for the radio screws they are at an angle that was the only thing I didn't have View attachment 72502View attachment 72504View attachment 72505View attachment 72506View attachment 72507View attachment 72503View attachment 72500View attachment 72501

Wow, looks good. Thanks for the idea about Krome Werks.

 

[hocnsoc]

Patience

The handlebar changeout is not difficult if you are the least bit mechanical. I added 12" Twin Peaks and took my time pulling wires with weed eater cord. Take photos of the connectors or label each wire for position and be patient. Removing the fairing can be intimidating but once you have done it you will find it to be no big deal. The videos on Utube are very good.

 

[Fearless]

I have a 2012 Tri that came with after market, multi-positioning handlebars. They are nice bars and no doubt cost a chunk of change. My problem is, that no matter what position or angle I adjust them to, my shoulders hurt after a long days ride. I've had 3 shoulder surgeries; having the bars at the proper angle is extremely important. After sitting on a few Tri's with factory bars I have decided to go back to the original style bars. I'm getting ready to leave on a 5000 mile trip in a month and would like to have this finished soon.

I've watched several videos on how to swap them out, my only real concern is the electric throttle cable and wiring plug. Does anyone have experience doing this type of swap out?

I'm really not into paying HD $500 labor to do this job.

Thanks in advance.

I have just finished re-reading your thread about the bar change I believe your year has the newer improved throttle wiring which goes to a plug in the faring not half way down the bar like my 09 does that should not be a problem. I would check with your dealer they should be able to tell you what year the switch was made. good luck on your decision.. ride safe Fred

 

[Bikerjw51]

I have just finished re-reading your thread about the bar change I believe your year has the newer improved throttle wiring which goes to a plug in the faring not half way down the bar like my 09 does that should not be a problem. I would check with your dealer they should be able to tell you what year the switch was made. good luck on your decision.. ride safe Fred

Thank you. I hope you're right.

 

[PosseRider]

I hope you are not talking "stock bars" Those things killed my shoulders after 150 miles. I went with (at the time ) called "Pull back touring bars" That was back in 03 .I still have them put on every new bike before it leaves the dealer.. Included in the deal.

 

[Bikerjw51]

I hope you are not talking "stock bars" Those things killed my shoulders after 150 miles. I went with (at the time ) called "Pull back touring bars" That was back in 03 .I still have them put on every new bike before it leaves the dealer.. Included in the deal.

Yes I am. And I was hoping someone would chime in about their experience with stock bars. Because riding the trike is push-pull, the angle of the handgrips concerned me. Thanks

 

[Fearless]

Yes I am. And I was hoping someone would chime in about their experience with stock bars. Because riding the trike is push-pull, the angle of the handgrips concerned me. Thanks

You will not I repeat will not like OEM bars I have stated what I thought of them many times the ergonomic triangle is horrible with them good ;luck I have posted what I have on old Shiney and love them. If you want OEM bars I have a set very reasonable just sayin. Fred