2006 Motortrike vtx1800 is my next ride....

Thanks Warlock!

I found the manual download, will be reading it all later when NOT at work... well.. read some already... :D

Following the progress of my parts coming in. I am SO much more comfortable planning and working on the trike with the vibration problem solved. I was having night sweats thinking about putting on the new driveshaft... and still having the issue persist. :gah:

On Tuesday I ordered running board covers from Sweden. They are in Germany now, and slated to arrive by UPS Monday. :clapping:

On Tuesday I also stopped by the Honda dealer, and ordered my motortrike and Honda parts. I was told all were in stock, YAAAY! and will be here next Wednesday. Two days after the parts come from Sweden. :xzqxz: M'ok!

And now that Mrs V has experienced the ride as it SHOULD be on the trike, got the 'OK' to get the rake kit. :clap:
 
Ok, pictures.

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I locked the spring down after compressing it with the adjustable on top. Worked great!
Rather than clamping vice grips onto the machined splines, might I suggest you slide the front U-joint onto the drive shaft in proper phase of course, then loop a long piece of wire through the saddle portions of the front and rear U-joint yokes, compress the spring by pushing the front U-joint on as far as you can …. then a few twists of the wire to secure it. Return the drive shaft to the trike, then after it's in place, just snip the wire. A heavy duty zip tie works too, as does strong poly chord like used for cloths lines, etc. Good cotton chord will work too, just don't forget to cut & remove whatever you use. No chance then of damaging the splines.

Good way to keep any spare shafts together for use too, just wrap rear U-joint with a few wraps of electrical tape, etc. I cleaned my spare well, and painted some parts, and tied it together, and pre-lubed the splines (moly), etc …, and then used plastic to wrap just in case I have it laying in the trailer some day and maybe clothing comes in contact. The box is a spare part too, but trike has a new one in it and the one on the shaft is near like new too.
 

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Good points!

I did see that in the manual, but no worries. It seemed to be a lot more work than I wanted to do.

The picture angle doesn't show it well, but the vice grips are below the splines. Loose enough to rotate on the shaft, but tight enough not to slip over the splines.I carefully adjusted them to fit there before putting the spring on.

Then slip the spring on,then LOOSELY holding the grips on the shaft, I used the adjustable wrench for a large area to push down on. Then when the vice grips were at the proper place, squeeze and lock. The vice grips were loose enough on the shaft that I was able to install the front U joint on the tranny, then rotate the shaft to the proper orientation and slide it into the front joint. Vice grips stayed in the open area to the right of the output shaft. Release the grips, and done.

Was planning on storing the new parts in big ziplocks using the boxes they come in. Maybe take them and 'bless' them with a quick spray of WD40 before repacking and storing.

Not sure if the new shaft is going to come with U joint or not. The rear U joint is an 'off the shelf' item, unlike the Motortrike made part, so i am anticipating it will not come with as to reduce the cost to the manufacturer.

While it was out, I looked briefly at how the shaft was made. I have buddies that do machining, and I am 99% sure they can duplicate that part for FAR less than the $400 it cost me. I will bring the new one to them with a few beers and see what they say. :drinks: The VTX has not been made for 11 years, and I could understand that part entering 'obsolete' status due to lack of demand. Or worse yet, Motortrikes disappears. :( Time marches on, the only constant is change.
 
When I had my VTX 1300, I mounted the Stebel horn on the left frame above the shifter, and it worked great.

Cool! That was a spot I looked at for the chrome one. Did the back look OK?

Another idea was getting the black one, and mounting it in front of the radiator after I install the rake kit. Nearer the top, spaced out a bit.
 
The picture angle doesn't show it well, but the vice grips are below the splines.
Good deal.

Was planning on storing the new parts in big ziplocks using the boxes they come in. Maybe take them and 'bless' them with a quick spray of WD40 before repacking and storing.
Might be a good idea to make sure it fits before storage. That rear U-joint on mine is standard Moog 430 also known as a "big cap Ford" series 1310 U-joint (two bearing caps are larger OD to better withstand deforming by overtightened rear U-joint caps).

Not sure what yours will take. When you get it, be a good time to find out what yours is & maybe pick one up if not included, they are cheap enough.

Good luck, take care, enjoy the "Glee on Three". :D
 

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Might be a good idea to make sure it fits before storage.

Not sure what yours will take. When you get it, be a good time to find out what yours is & maybe pick one up if not included, they are cheap enough.

Good luck, take care, enjoy the "Glee on Three". :D

WOW! Thats some good advice there. Will do. You may have saved 'future me' a load of trouble.

Glee on Three. LOVE THAT!! :clapping:
 
Beautiful Sunny Florida Winter Sunday, 50's to start. :clapping: Going for a ride later, polishing the aluminum wheels now.

LOTS of black rags. But they do shine underneath. I used to have a buffing wheel on an arm back in the day for doing VW rims... missing it now!

Using Mother's polish, thank you WalMart. Forgot to get some at the parts store.

The footboard covers came FRIDAY. Four days from Sweden to Florida. :xzqxz: Amazing. UPS shows us how it is done.

They are NOS in excellent shape.

Back to polishing!
 
Well, yesterdays ride did have one 'slight pucker' moment.

I know I have to replace the rear brake cylinders. Like a MORON, I have been more worried about my go power and show power, and not my WHOA power. :blush: I am an idiot, and have chastised customers for doing the same thing.

I am getting back cylinders for the brakes today. The trailing shoe is working, but the leading shoe is not. So I am not getting any of the rotational assist on the trailing. They work, but I cant lock them up.

A problem I found was one of the 'features' of this bike. Thee are 3 pistons in each front caliper. The two large ones are activated by hand when you activate the front brakes. The two small ones are activated by the rear brake pedal. I guess that's accounting for all the people that ride and never use the front brake - by making it mandatory. M'ok.

My issue with that was when I already had the front brakes on the edge of lockup using the front brake cylinder. Then when I was pressing on the back brakes the extra pressure locks up the front before the back brakes really started to work. SO happy I was on three wheels... not two. MRs V handled it very

SO.. seriously debating disconnecting the feed to the front brake from the rear master cyl. With sidecars, I always was hard on the front brake. I use it first every time. Anyone ever do this?

I probably should start a new thread on it, instead of hiding it 4 pages down in this one.

But really - DON'T be a moron like I was in your excitement to get the trike looking fine and riding fine... if there is ANY issue with the brakes, fix them first. I am fortunate that I was able to experiment with a good runout area in case of failure. If a truck had pulled out... I would have been fooked.
 
Got an AWESOME cover for my trike. Fits like it was made for it. Its for a Harley, but close enough!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037IWZV...xkJBSy8sQoerGW6X68-fFD0Ol3N2rNF2FI-BAu_LsNVxE

***

My trike, naked in the elements. There is a bird circling.... :gah:

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Lucky I have junk in the trunk. :D

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Lay it out on the seat, the inside is exposed.

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The white part on the front goes over the windshield. Kicka** elastic band around the bottom. Zipper to the back center. The front tire has a seam to mark it also.

Pretty quick and easy on.

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Fits like it was tailored. There were 2 bungee hooks on it, but they are less than worthless. Catch on everything. Dont need them for now, may build hooks onto the trike.

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Put it on in the trailer. The zipper in the back allows for trunk access without taking the cover off.

Now even if the roof vent or AC lets water in, I am covered. :good:

Also gonna be great at work. DUSTY lot.

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You can see the water spot on the lens in the last pic, and the raindrops in the pond in the one before that. Did the pics, then it poured. Timing... :clapping:

Wish we were riding...
 
Been TOO long. Loving playing with the trike. :clap:AND Mrs V loves it. :clap:

Getting different back tires. Estimated delivery by new years. The way Amazon has been, prolly here by friday. Been getting packages 4-7 days early!

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Look like they are brothers to the Avon up front.

225/45r15. 23inches tall, and run on the wider side.

Original 225/60R15 BF G's will be saved. They were 25.6 inches tall.

The engine will turn 12% faster with these tires.

I am liking a 'lower' gear, I dont like the feel in 5th. I use 4th for top gear. Sometimes wanting 5th, but usually not for long. The engine turns 25% faster in 4th than 5th.

Hope the tire size 'splits the difference' effectively and I can use 5th more.

Shouldnt look too small in the fender, they are 1.5 inches shorter on the sidewall, and that would put the tread height even with the vertical edge of the fender.

They are pretty cheap to experiment with. :clapping: Tires less than $200/pair delivered, estimating $50 for R/R and balance.

https://www.amazon.com/225-45ZR15-8...ral+595+rs-rr+225/45r15&qid=1577058870&sr=8-1

Be REALLY cool to see a braking increase... certainly should with sticky race tires. They are DOT legal.

There is a the complaint they are NOISY. Like ALL CAPS NOISY. On cars... I would be somewhat tickled if the tread noise was louder than my exhaust on the trike. We will see!
 
Got more parts in! The Motortrike driveshaft came with EVERYTHING needed. :good: Great service.

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One thing bothers me... The front u joint has four possible ways to go on. Using the 'eye gauge' it looks like none of them line up correctly. :xzqxz: One is close, I am going to set things up on a flat surface to check correctly.

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Got the two left side steps, the right is coming...someday. Should see if my Swede buddies have one. :laugh: The chrome footboard covers are from them, and look great. Pins and springs from Honda. Tried to get all part numbers visible for those that follow. :cool:

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It was raining, so I was working in the trailer. The rear footboard is just balanced there for the photo. Making proper brackets soon. Mrs V LOVES the look.

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Left Side. Once again, just propped up for the pic. The ratchet, and bright green glass were close at hand. Glass was perfect height.

Going to make sure the lowest step is 'inboard' of the others, and allows me to reverse by foot. It is still about the same distance out as the exhaust on the right side. But it will be a WELCOME addition for me and Mrs V when mounting the trike.

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Higher than the frame rails, I am gonna use the original side stand bosses to mount it.

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Took the motorcycle endorsement class and passed 100%. Going tomorrow to get the licence updated. The penalty down here went up to 1) impounded bike and 2) $500 fine for riding without... got my respect. :xzqxz: Used to be a 'fix-it' ticket and ride home. Then again, it didnt used to be a $200 class over 3 days. That cuts into my 'mod' money.. :p
 
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

LEGAL AGAIN


Got my licence updated. Feels about the same as the first time. :clapping:

The tires came! I was betting friday... Amazon is kicking a**. They were 'expected' the 31st.

They look great. The rain grooves are the width of my index finger.

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Deflated they are the same width as the originals inflated..... :good:

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Definitely shorter. 23" vs 25.5".

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Trying to show the height difference better. The new tire height is between the ledge/transition at the edge of the block tread and the next 'inner' ledge/transition. It will look different, for sure. The wheelwells were overstuffed before, so i am hoping for a decent look and a final drive reduction.

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Put the new driveshaft on the bench, and one fitment of the front u-joint/driveshaft does have a 'perfect' alignment. I could see someone replacing the part and having the shaft out of phase if they didn't know to check. I will have pics up when I replace it. Tires first, they are going to be mounted and balanced tomorrow.
 
Tires are on, unfortunately we have had DAYS of rain... I am a little reluctant to run down our muddy dirt road to get to pavement. Country life... love it.

At first, I panicked. HUGE gap between the top of the tire and fender. Then when I figured out I had left the airbags at 80psi from when I jacked it up...:xzqxz:

I put them down to 20psi and it settled a couple inches. WHEW. Looks more modern now, for lack of a better term. Less of the 'stuffed wheelwells' look. Try to get pics if we get a break in the *&%*&%^ rain. Dec 28....rainy and 75*. :gah:

Got my vanity tag coming. REALLY wanted 'GLEEON3' but bikes only get 6 digits. :mad: RTRIKE was in the running, but this is our winner:

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:clapping: Be here in 6-8 weeks. Thats a pic of the printout they give to confirm.

Keeping an eye on the radar for clear spots. I will go SLOW through the mud.
 
We got a break in the weather. :clapping:

The tires look great. Went to my buddies place that saw it last week, he did not notice the height difference, just the cool tread.

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Neat tracks in the sand, both front and back.

back

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front

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The roads are wet, so hard to directly compare braking. They 'come on' a lot more linear, there is a lot more warning before it locks up. Feels like they are stopping as hard as the others on dry pavement. Thats the 'butt dyno' and not measured, FWIW.

When you run over gravel, it does pick it up. Even on damp roads. VERY sticky tires.

I did deliberately hit a couple puddles with the rears. Smaller puddles - 18" dia, 1"(?) deep. 40mph. NO forward splash. Not a noticeable throw out to the side, either. Very happy with that.

They are smoother at speed. The others had a bit of out of round to them.

Balanced easily, one small weight on the inside.

Surprisingly, both weighed about the same - new tires 24.8 pounds, old ones 25.5.

I like the gearing now, I can creep around at idle. 6-7mph maybe. Not parade slow, but thats OK!

Have to wait for dry weather. For today, gonna pull it in and replace the driveshaft.

Have to back off the adjusters left 3 right 2 notches. It drags just a skosh, thought it would wear in. . not when you arc sand the shoes, evidently. Left wheel locks just before right every time.
 
VTX 1800

I have one and speed is what ever you can handle I have been 100 + and still going:Dorag:

Had 2 bikes with sidecars, 79 CB750 with a 1974 sidestrider car, and a 1997 Goldwing with a daytona 2+2. Now looking at a 2006 VTX1800 Motortrike. Gonna try having the back wheels lined up. :clapping:

Went for a first look today. Pretty good for the age, minor paint issues, shiny bits shiny. When I put the rear brake on, via the foot pedal, it stuck on. Pedal travel normal, like the master was good, but was not wanting to move. Had to help push it back in. After fixing it, Seller told me it was a mis adjusted shoe and 'drum brakes are tricky' :xzqxz: Yeah... as an air cooled VW restorer, I know drum brakes WELL!

I had a bit of 'Parking Brake?!?' hope in the first moments... :D Nope. But being that Mrs V was with, cut the visit short and let the seller 'fix' things. 1:30 PM

He called back at 3pm. Told him i was still in, and see him tomorrow.

So, going to do a 'due diligence' inspection tomorrow. Have gloves, light and back wheels off. Give her the complete underbelly look.

Todays peek under it looked like the rear end cover had been pulled. Might have been oily, or fresh black paint. Is this a narrowed car rear end? Solid axle.

The VTX1800 has 18K miles, don't know when the conversion happened. Will get DOT date off tires tomorrow FWIW.

The original VTX owners manual is with it :pepper: and a bible. Do the rear drums use the stock VTX master cylinder? Going to consult the OM for all fluid check points.

Any tips on checking radiator fluid? Heck...cooling system?

Any other items should look at with extra attention??

A bit of web snooping I found a coil shock/air shock suspension is likely, OR a combination. There was a 'thing that looked like a switch with the toggle broken off' that the seller thought turned on the 'custom' led lights. It bled pressurized air... will know more tomorrow.

More snooping told me of a proportional braking system that applied front and rear brakes together... not sure if it applies to this model. I would bet the brake fluid was last flushed at the trike conversion, if ever... see what it looks like tomorrow.

My test drive today was around the warehouse complex in first. Bike seemed to idle a bit high, but very smooth. Fuel Injected, so good possibility it was not warmed up. Not much of a drive.

Guy probably has open title on the bike, and uptight about any road test. Gonna work that through. Need to have it 'at speed'. What top speed should I expect? My morning commute is normally 75-85 mph, and 90 is a fine top end with me. NOT going to do a top speed test tomorrow, just curious. :p

Well, thats about all the questions that come to mind... for now. Excited about this, and hoping to get some advice from those more experienced.

Oh yeah... $$... Seller asking $8500. That's in our budget. Again, web searches led to comparable results.. usually higher. THANKS!

Will be checking back early AM my time.[/QUOTE]
 
I have one and speed is what ever you can handle I have been 100 + and still going:Dorag:

Yeah, with the new tires and driveshaft i took it up to an indicated 120, guessing actual 105? Plenty fast. Got there quick too. :clapping:

Then took Mrs V for a ride...and ran out of gas. :gah: Evidently the 'low gas' light doesn't work. About 150 miles on a tank, and was hammering it 'testing'. Short walk, 1 gal gas and a $11 can got us going. Going to top it off every hundred now until I know her better.

Unfortunately.... still have a vibration. Not sure if its a feature or character. Or a defect. Never had a V twin, much less 2 900cc jugs. CB750 and 1500 GW were silky smooth power.

Vibrates when under power throttle, neutral or decel throttle is much smoother.

Clutch in smooths it out, and revving the motor with the clutch in is smooth.

Was really hoping the driveshaft would help, but honestly the new had as much observed play as the old. The biggest gain this whole time was indexing it correctly. The replacement with new was ~$600 for some great spare parts. :D

The Harleys and one Suzuki V twins I have ridden have had enough vibration I didnt like it, so things might be OK and normal. I am used to Honda smooth, and was hoping they would have a smooth V.

I still want to do a valve adjustment, but thats a tank off project per the service manual. New battery going in the same time.

The rear wheel bearings are suspect now also. On jackstands with the wheels hanging in the air, wheels spin easily. NO drag. I backed off the adjusters a bit anyway. When I did lower the trike, it rolled with a bit of resistance. Also will stop on a slight incline and not roll back freely. Worn/wrong/??? bearings would cause the drum and backing plate to change center-line(s) to cause drag also. Someone has been in there, and maybe the same 'tech' that mis-indexed the driveshaft. :xzqxz: Be worth checking.

Gonna ride it in to work tomorrow. Short day, and weather looks good.
 

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