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Thread: Clutch changes - all input appreciated

  1. #1
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    Default Clutch changes - all input appreciated

    I'm trying to figure out what to do. Right now my TG clutch lever is hard to pull. Has been since I bought it, but lately it's been giving my some wrist and fingers trouble.

    Not sure if I should just go with an EZ clutch, auto clutch (?) or an electric easy shift kit. I have seen some videos on all three on YouTube and some other random websites, and there doesn't seem to be much to say on one over the other. That's where I'm confused. We all know that when a *bunch*of people say they like something *cough* Papa Zooks rake kits*cough* it's pretty obvious what's a good thing and what's just a fad.

    Has anyone had experience with any or all of these set ups? Pros/cons? Ease of installation and maintenance? Alternatives? I won't be doing the install myself so I've got to factor in labor but that's a simple equation. $100 x (number of hours) + 30% (because well, TriGlide)

    EZ clutch link https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/-n-a

    Auto Clutch link https://www.motosport.com/rekluse-exp-30-automatic-clutch-kit-harley-davidson (one of many but recluse always pops up in a search)

    Pingel electric easy shift link https://www.jpcycles.com/product/630-540/pingel-electric-easy-shift-kit (again one of many, JP cycles was just the first that came up in a search.

    These are just examples, there are others but the basics seem to be the same. Prices are all about the same too across the board.

    Edit: So I was just clicking around and came up with some threads on the EFM, clutchwhiz and a few others. They didn't show up when I did a search though. Glad I'm not the only one around here with a bad left hand/arm/wrist/whatever.

    All input is appreciated and I'll answer any questions for specificity or pictures if needed.


  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ecxelsior View Post
    I'm trying to figure out what to do. Right now my TG clutch lever is hard to pull. Has been since I bought it, but lately it's been giving my some wrist and fingers trouble.

    Not sure if I should just go with an EZ clutch, auto clutch (?) or an electric easy shift kit. I have seen some videos on all three on YouTube and some other random websites, and there doesn't seem to be much to say on one over the other. That's where I'm confused. We all know that when a *bunch*of people say they like something *cough* Papa Zooks rake kits*cough* it's pretty obvious what's a good thing and what's just a fad.

    Has anyone had experience with any or all of these set ups? Pros/cons? Ease of installation and maintenance? Alternatives? I won't be doing the install myself so I've got to factor in labor but that's a simple equation. $100 x (number of hours) + 30% (because well, TriGlide)

    EZ clutch link https://www.harley-davidson.com/store/-n-a

    Auto Clutch link https://www.motosport.com/rekluse-exp-30-automatic-clutch-kit-harley-davidson (one of many but recluse always pops up in a search)

    Pingel electric easy shift link https://www.jpcycles.com/product/630-540/pingel-electric-easy-shift-kit (again one of many, JP cycles was just the first that came up in a search.

    These are just examples, there are others but the basics seem to be the same. Prices are all about the same too across the board.

    All input is appreciated and I'll answer any questions for specificity or pictures if needed.

    Have you tired the adj clutch lever. This will shorten the pull. I found it much easier, especially where I have arthritis in my hands. Also this is something you can do yourself so no labor charges.

  3. #3
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    Default

    You didn’t say what year your bike is, but if it’s a cable clutch adjustment will make a big difference. If it’s newer like mine and has a hydraulic clutch the AIM LiteForce slave cylinder made a big difference for me. The effort to clutch is reduced by at least 50% and engagement is closer to the grip.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PanheadSteve View Post
    You didn’t say what year your bike is, but if it’s a cable clutch adjustment will make a big difference. If it’s newer like mine and has a hydraulic clutch the AIM LiteForce slave cylinder made a big difference for me. The effort to clutch is reduced by at least 50% and engagement is closer to the grip.
    Sorry, 2010 TG Ultra Classic with a hydraulic clutch

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ecxelsior View Post
    Sorry, 2010 TG Ultra Classic with a hydraulic clutch
    Have you flushed the fluid lately? I agree with changing the actuator, if possible.

    Several aftermarket models, if available, have reduced pull.
    2017 Harley Davidson Freewheeler (107 cu.in. vivid black).

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  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ecxelsior View Post
    Sorry, 2010 TG Ultra Classic with a hydraulic clutch
    Are you sure? It must be modification then because HD did not go to hydraulic until 2014.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

  8. #7
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    2010 Triglide trap door with cable actuated clutch

    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  9. #8
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    2010 cable actuated clutch

    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  10. #9
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    Default clucth

    my cable was in a bind behind windshield; after handlebar change. straightened out cable oiled it real good works fine

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by k-dog View Post
    my cable was in a bind behind windshield; after handlebar change. straightened out cable oiled it real good works fine
    +1 on servicing the cable. A much over looked maintenance item.
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gorilla View Post
    Are you sure? It must be modification then because HD did not go to hydraulic until 2014.
    Since you mention it no. I bought it used, and it looks like a hydraulic cable (round steel braided cable) coming out behind my clutch lever. Although to be honest, I might have assumed since it's always been a tough pull, and I've been told that's one of the causes. While I'm taking a pic I'll check again for binding etc.

    I'm having trouble putting in a pic, here, but I'll put it in my album if you want to look.

  13. #12
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    Figured out how to post a pic. I feel like a dumbass b/c some of the ideas you folks are tossing out are kind of common sense. Having ridden yamahas and suzukis most of my life, the cable really looks different than I would have expected. To me, it looks hydraulic, but now that I check for a new cable, Barnett cable looks a lot like this one.

    Research is always good. Thanks folks for your patience with me trying to figure this out. Hopefully I'll learn enough to not kill myself or drive you folks crazy in the near future.

    Name:  Clutch cable.jpg
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  14. #13
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    no worry thats a braided cable with a little bit of work you can lube it and free it up
    Stallion #406 // 2013 Tri-Glide

  15. #14
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    Tom, here is a pretty good video on lubing your clutch cable. I have in the past removed the cable from the perch, tied a baggy with Marvel Mystery oil to the cable. Let it sit suspended over night, this drips lube down the cable pretty good.
    Nuff Said," Were Burnin Daylight, Lets Ride"(Sober 37 years)
    Current ride : 2021 FREEWHEELER M8, oldest ride 1960 FL

  16. #15
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    Default

    I'm going to put some WD-40 in it this weekend, and try to adjust it out a bit. If it doesn't work, I'm back where I started, so it's worth a shot. Thanks again for all knowledge y'all dropped.

  17. DKCustoms postbit

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