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WOW! Only 6 weeks hiatus from the axle work. Good Grief. Thanks to the Wuhan Flu, No Disney the next two weekends. :birthday_smiley:Silver lining to every cloud. :shades:
I am working out the install of the rear axle, and I am concerned that it may not be properly aligned. Triketech did say improperly installed ladder bars WILL damage things.
I have the document from Triketech earlier, and the MT manual for the Goldwing trike conversion.
Both cover final adjustments, but lack the 'basic' alignment to the front wheel. Most is probably basic geometry and measuring, but I dont want to find out the hard way there is more. Never set up a three wheeler.
Any info?
THANKS!
i went threw this awhile back when my rear was running stagard.
what i did was measure from the bolt that holds the front heim in to the front of the axle tube and made sure they were the same. If i remember correctly. That measurement was 23 and 1/2 inches.
as far as side to side i measured from the frame to the inside of the tire.
This came up before and I could not find the pdf of a file I knew I had … but I reorganized some things.
Maybe this will help? This is adjustment, not install. It doesn't specify for GL or VTX or Valkyrie, etc … it looks like it would apply to all SA equipped MT trikes. Even if they use a Valkyrie as example, it's same ladder bar set up, just the axle isn't flipped over.
I have a magnetic level, about 8" long, has a fixed vial and an adjustable vial in a round window with a degree scale. I think maybe Black & Decker. I know U-joints like a little rotation of needle bearings in use for longevity.Going to try a minimal pinion angle, fortunately I have a good test area around me. If any 'pros' out there have a hint, feel free to chime in. PLEASE.
I have a magnetic level, about 8" long, has a fixed vial and an adjustable vial in a round window with a degree scale. I think maybe Black & Decker. I know U-joints like a little rotation of needle bearings in use for longevity.
If mine, I'd probably try to nearly match the pinion angle to the angle of a engine part like underneath cooling ribs which likely nearly match the angle of the output shaft and let any slight offset between the output shaft and pinion shaft do the rolling of the needle bearings. You might be able to access the output shaft itself on a VTX? Or maybe I'd just aim the pinion 5 degrees bellow driveshaft center line. With ladder bars, once set, that angle at the rear U-joint is gonna stay the same anyway.
i know the manual states to measure from the tire to the fender, i did not mention this because the very first time i done that. i made it identical on both sides from the tire to the fender. come to find out that the installer did not have the body on straight, it was shifted to one side more than the other. once i set it straight using my measurement from the frame to the tire then i was able to unbolt the body. shift it over to where it belonged then bolt it back down. good luck buddy. i know you'll get this thing straightened out then you'll have a smile on your face so big you'll do the toyota jump.
Rear U-joint angle between drive shaft and companion flange or pinion gear stem should not change with ladder bars, only the front U-joint angle between drive shaft and transmission out put shaft will change as the drive shaft will follow the same arc as the ladder bars, just like with a swing arm. The front U-joint "cross" is between the front most ladder bar to frame mounts.Agreed, except rear u-joint angle will change with suspension travel.
Rear U-joint angle between drive shaft and companion flange or pinion gear stem should not change with ladder bars, only the front U-joint angle between drive shaft and transmission out put shaft will change as the drive shaft will follow the same arc as the ladder bars, just like with a swing arm. The front U-joint "cross" is between the front most ladder bar to frame mounts.
"Rear fender center"? Level concrete floor, tape, plumb bobs. Draw it all out on the floor. Like a trailer, a pair of lines. One line across rear axle center line, at 1/2 way between, a 90 degree line to front tire contact. About as good as it will get. 3 squared + 4 squared = 25 square root = 5 hypotenuse
"Decontamination tent" in the driveway huh. Good deal.
Take Care!
Well... lockdown never happened for me, 'Essential personnel' they say. BUT... allergies were acting up something fierce, and they want me to have a Dr note saying I am clean.
First Dr appt avail WED... FINALLY ITS TRIKE TIIIIIIIIIME!
Well, I guess i can pinpoint the problem as poor welding at Motor Trike in 2006. Got the axle up on the bench, under bright lights.
As some may remember, I was a little pissed that Motor Trike missed the weld at the top of the left side strap. Even with HD pics. Hard to tell if it was a weld-over-a-crack, or a weak weld failing under a stronger one? I cut it apart, and the pieces looked like it was poor penetration, but hard to tell with the 'scab weld' on top. You could still see the square edge of the strap where it SHOULD have been fused to the other plate...
Well..... found the bottom cracked also, and the culprit is VERY clear. Now, as you see, the crack is pretty damn obvious.
OK, this wasnt hard to find on the bench... just never had it upside down under lights.
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And it wasn't far from where Motortrike's crack team did the inspection and repairs... Like 4 inches or so.. nice attention to detail guys.
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Cutting off the strap end to get a good weld area, look at the LACK of penetration. Those two little divots in the base metal are the ONLY spots the weld had penetrated. Popped off with a small screwdriver, easily, after cutting the strap. You can see the two bumps on the piece i am holding. ALL the other surface area was just pigeon shit on top.
Well, thats a 'smoking gun' to me. This whole calamity was caused by piss poor welding in 2006. On top of that, when i send it back the current group of monkeys doesnt fix it right. This was SUPPOSED to be cleaned, inspected, and new pieces welded on while in a jig. Instead, they replaced the minimum necessary to make it work, and never inspected the rest of the assembly for the PROBLEMS IT WAS SENT THERE FOR. Idiots.
No argument with the welding, look like some great beads. But as far as getting the job DONE that I hired Motor Trike for, they failed miserably. LOSERS!
My saving grace was that I can do this stuff, and know what to look for. When I have some jackasses send me dangerous work, I have the ability to see it and correct it. I spec'd NO PAINT so I could inspect it... that crack would have been filled with paint. :xzqxz: Dealing with Richard on the phone always left me a little ...wanting. 30 second answers took 3 minutes. I thought it prudent to inspect the work 'JUST IN CASE' the work didnt meet the expectations... gut feeling. SO glad I went with it, may have saved my life!
Imagine if i was 'Joe Average Customer'. Sending my rear to the trike shop to get it fixed. Having faith that the factory, the company that built it, will fix it right. A reasonable assumption.
I get my newly repaired axle back, painted and shiny. Reassemble it, and go for a ride. Wonder how long before the left side would have broken JUST LIKE THE RIGHT DID, hopefully with up not losing our lives....but we were VERY lucky last time.
Richard, I hope you read this and hang your head. SHAME on you and your company. I shipped this axle to you in good faith, you guys shipped back a dangerous part. I consider you ALL incompetent, and i am going to be spreading the word about your ineptness. You are VERY fortunate we are discussing this in a forum, and you are not getting this info along with a lawsuit for your actions. YOU SHIPPED BACK A DANGEROUS ITEM. SHAME.
Maybe its my fault for sending beer and crown.. never thought they would drink it THEN do the work..
Well... now to calm down and get to welding. I have three days off! :clapping:
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