JUST KNIVES

[BillR]

Here’s my molded open top sheath I bought off a guy on Etsy. It’s made from saddle leather. It’s REALLY nice. Just ordered a snap top one to use as well.

View attachment 82058

That's nice. What belt attachment does it have?

 

[consitter]

That's nice. What belt attachment does it have?

A hard leather loop sowed to itself.

 

[consitter]

Here’s a pic of the loop...

 

[hogcowboy]

Both , then insert the weapon and it will form to it. When doing Gun holsters , wet the leather , then insert the gun mold and let it dry. Then oil just to keep it from drying out. Too much will soften the leather to loose its shape.

I've never done this so would like a little bit more info.

1. Just how wet do you get the leather? Soaking like submerged in oil or what?
   
2. How long does it take to dry?
   
3. How do you get the depressions like the trigger guard and trigger. Some vacuum or something?
   
4. And confirm, it is neatsfoot oil and not water to do this forming and drying.
   
5. Any kind of neatsfoot? I hear some swear by Fiebing's for some reason so wonder if you have a preference too.
   

Anything else you might suggest for a first timer would be appreciated. Sorry to bug you on what you might think is common sense but I've just never done anything with leather other than use it. Well, except for my old baseball glove and that I did use neatsfoot oil to shape a pocket for the ball. But I don't remember how wet I got it or how long it took to dry or any of the particulars involved to get that pocket formed. And it was heavily used immediately after anyone so not really sure what I did had anything to do with the end pocket anyway. That was like 62 years ago or more when I was somewhere around 12 or 14 when I got my first new glove. A glove lost in time too.

 

[1dn5up]

I've never done this so would like a little bit more info.

1. Just how wet do you get the leather? Soaking like submerged in oil or what?
   
2. How long does it take to dry?
   
3. How do you get the depressions like the trigger guard and trigger. Some vacuum or something?
   
4. And confirm, it is neatsfoot oil and not water to do this forming and drying.
   
5. Any kind of neatsfoot? I hear some swear by Fiebing's for some reason so wonder if you have a preference too.
   

Anything else you might suggest for a first timer would be appreciated. Sorry to bug you on what you might think is common sense but I've just never done anything with leather other than use it. Well, except for my old baseball glove and that I did use neatsfoot oil to shape a pocket for the ball. But I don't remember how wet I got it or how long it took to dry or any of the particulars involved to get that pocket formed. And it was heavily used immediately after anyone so not really sure what I did had anything to do with the end pocket anyway. That was like 62 years ago or more when I was somewhere around 12 or 14 when I got my first new glove. A glove lost in time too.

1/4” leather is used , a model of the weapon is needed , plastic or wood. Child’s toy gun. Coat the model with wax so it doesn’t stick to the wet leather. Warm water soaking with the model in will emboss it using your fingers

When the leather drys , it will be stiff and molded. Cut out what’s not wanted while the model is still in.

use automotive leather cleaner , paste, to keep it from drying out . Using oil on embossed leather will get soft and you will loose the embossing !!

BTW, before starting , the two pieces or leather must be sewn together loosely. Use the model weapon as a tight fit. After the molding is done , a final sewing is done to its shape. Yes a comercial sewing machine is needed .

Needsfoot oil is used on leather only if you want it soft and plyable , Re baseball gloves , knife sheaths .

 

[consitter]

So Frank...you do your own leather work? That holster looks really good!

 

[BillR]

500 series

My Buck 505 came in today. I recently got the 506 and 501. There is a 507 that has pearl scales that I got outbid on, I'll find one in time.



From top down, 500 Duke

501 Squire

503 Prince

505 Knight

506 White Knight (I guess it was, 35 years ago when it was new. The script logo places it between 1979 and 1985). The same date range for the 500 and 503.

 

[Gone2Three]

My Buck 505 came in today. I recently got the 506 and 501. There is a 507 that has pearl scales that I got outbid on, I'll find one in time.

View attachment 82067

From top down, 500 Duke

501 Squire

503 Prince

505 Knight

506 White Knight (I guess it was, 35 years ago when it was new. The script logo places it between 1979 and 1985). The same date range for the 500 and 503.

Very nice collection of 500's there Bill :clapping:

 

[Gone2Three]

Tracking info on my package shows it arrived in Austin, hopefully it will make it to Pflugerville tomorrow and be delivered as scheduled.

Hey Scott, that's the same brown sheath that I brought as well. But it won't arrive until Monday.

 

[consitter]

Tracking info on my package shows it arrived in Austin, hopefully it will make it to Pflugerville tomorrow and be delivered as scheduled.

Hey Scott, that's the same brown sheath that I brought as well. But it won't arrive until Monday.

My new sheath from the saddle maker is coming Monday. I called and asked if he could put a rush on it, and he did.

 

[hogcowboy]

1/4” leather is used , a model of the weapon is needed , plastic or wood. Child’s toy gun. Coat the model with wax so it doesn’t stick to the wet leather. Warm water soaking with the model in will emboss it using your fingers

When the leather drys , it will be stiff and molded. Cut out what’s not wanted while the model is still in.

use automotive leather cleaner , paste, to keep it from drying out . Using oil on embossed leather will get soft and you will loose the embossing !!

BTW, before starting , the two pieces or leather must be sewn together loosely. Use the model weapon as a tight fit. After the molding is done , a final sewing is done to its shape. Yes a comercial sewing machine is needed .

Needsfoot oil is used on leather only if you want it soft and plyable , Re baseball gloves , knife sheaths .

Thanks very much. I was thinking it almost had to be water you use. Do you have a particular 'automotive leather cleaner , paste" you've found works better than others? Or what kind do you currently use. I can see now how people ruin a good holster by putting oil on it thinking they are keeping it from drying out. I don't normally use leather preferring Kydex due to the humidity here and not wanting a dampish holster ruining a gun with rust when stored in my closet. Kydex is just so much safer in that regard.

I do have a knife sheath I'd like to try this on. I bet you use some kind of drier to shorten the drying process. I'll have to let mother nature do the best she can knowing humidity is my enemy and spring and humidity are just around the corner.

 

[1dn5up]

Thanks very much. I was thinking it almost had to be water you use. Do you have a particular 'automotive leather cleaner , paste" you've found works better than others? Or what kind do you currently use. I can see now how people ruin a good holster by putting oil on it thinking they are keeping it from drying out. I don't normally use leather preferring Kydex due to the humidity here and not wanting a dampish holster ruining a gun with rust when stored in my closet. Kydex is just so much safer in that regard.

I do have a knife sheath I'd like to try this on. I bet you use some kind of drier to shorten the drying process. I'll have to let mother nature do the best she can knowing humidity is my enemy and spring and humidity are just around the corner.

Lexol #2 . Wallmart has it in automotive section. NO dryers !

 

[1dn5up]

So Frank...you do your own leather work? That holster looks really good!

Funny story.

35 years ago , I was at a range. I admired the guy next to me had this fancy holster on. Got talkin , and he was a local shoemaker. Remember them ? Asked him about making me one for my 38s&w. He invited me to to watch the process and learn me how to do.

You need a lot of comercial machines if your to make them , sewing , grinders , cutters, buffers ect. Unfortunately he passed on a year or two after that. Those old timers knew there stuff. But he taught me a lot during the process while making it.

He probably was the guy that put the heel taps on my boots back in the late 50’s-60’s. Yup, I was one of those cool �� guys making noise in the high school hall ways .

Just one of those things left embedded into this pea brain left.

 

[consitter]

Funny story.

35 years ago , I was at a range. I admired the guy next to me had this fancy holster on. Got talkin , and he was a local shoemaker. Remember them ? Asked him about making me one for my 38s&w. He invited me to to watch the process and learn me how to do.

You need a lot of comercial machines if your to make them , sewing , grinders , cutters, buffers ect. Unfortunately he passed on a year or two after that. Those old timers knew there stuff. But he taught me a lot during the process while making it.

He probably was the guy that put the heel taps on my boots back in the late 50’s-60’s.

We had a shoemaker here until about a year ago...his name was Gordy. He was in the local motorcycle gang too...the Bear Creek Bandits. His downtown shop closed up a little while back. Don’t know if he retired or passed away.

 

[1dn5up]

We had a shoemaker here until about a year ago...his name was Gordy. He was in the local motorcycle gang too...the Bear Creek Bandits. His downtown shop closed up a little while back. Don’t know if he retired or passed away.

All those machines were on one large shaft. Belt driven with one motor. Two HUGE sewing machines , and a lot of bandaids

 

[consitter]

All those machines were on one large shaft. Belt driven with one motor. Two HUGE sewing machines , and a lot of bandaids

Our guy had a bunch of separate machines. The place always smelled like old leather. You could smell it from 20 feet outside the door of the shop.

You gonna make your own sheath?

 

[1dn5up]

Our guy had a bunch of separate machines. The place always smelled like old leather. You could smell it from 20 feet outside the door of the shop.

You gonna make your own sheath?

Nope , the one that came with the 110 is fine. Has a double layer inside to prevent accidental release. I just gave it a a good dose of leather cream.

 

[consitter]

Nope , the one that came with the 110 is fine. Has a double layer inside to prevent accidental release. I just gave it a a good dose of leather cream.

I’ll do the same to mine. It’s some hard leather.

 

[trike lady]

Funny story.

35 years ago , I was at a range. I admired the guy next to me had this fancy holster on. Got talkin , and he was a local shoemaker. Remember them ? Asked him about making me one for my 38s&w. He invited me to to watch the process and learn me how to do.

You need a lot of comercial machines if your to make them , sewing , grinders , cutters, buffers ect. Unfortunately he passed on a year or two after that. Those old timers knew there stuff. But he taught me a lot during the process while making it.

He probably was the guy that put the heel taps on my boots back in the late 50’s-60’s. Yup, I was one of those cool �� guys making noise in the high school hall ways .

Just one of those things left embedded into this pea brain left.

The old time craftsmen took a lot of knowledge with them when they left the earth, skills that are gone forever. My grandmother could sew, make beaded purses, reupholster furniture and redo the old wire frame lampshades. Today everything is 'Throw Away'; stuff is made so that you cannot repair it or it costs more to fix then what you paid for it when you first purchased it. I learned a lesson on that with laptops, buy commercial/business grade ones they're easier to work on, my last consumer grade one died.

As for knives I don't have collector ones, except the Chinese Army knife from Dollar Tree.

 

[FuzzyWuzHe]

My only self defense ... for now

Bought this in 1975 ... it does not swing open it slides straight out of the handle ... with practice ... it's pretty fast ...

In the case, which I don't use to carry it ... it's more of a pocket knife.



Closed, see the knurled part on the back of the blade, just push down, slide that forward, it opens.



Starting to open



Almost Open



Open, at this point it locks, push on the lock on the right side bottom to slide it back.



Case and knife, the knife doesn't say buck, just the case.



First Edition, 383 of 500.



I bought this at a Harley Dealer ... who knows if it is actually a Buck, but the nylon case that came with it says it is, and I'm pretty sure it had Buck paperwork, but 45 years is a long time to remember.. Very light weight, easy to pocket cary.

By loosening the case (gently pry the halves apart, it's just a press fit), you can push down on the knurled button, flick, it's open. I keep it a little snugger, still pretty quick to open and safer to carry.