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Here’s my molded open top sheath I bought off a guy on Etsy. It’s made from saddle leather. It’s REALLY nice. Just ordered a snap top one to use as well.
View attachment 82058
That's nice. What belt attachment does it have?
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Here’s my molded open top sheath I bought off a guy on Etsy. It’s made from saddle leather. It’s REALLY nice. Just ordered a snap top one to use as well.
View attachment 82058
That's nice. What belt attachment does it have?
Both , then insert the weapon and it will form to it. When doing Gun holsters , wet the leather , then insert the gun mold and let it dry. Then oil just to keep it from drying out. Too much will soften the leather to loose its shape.
I've never done this so would like a little bit more info.
- Just how wet do you get the leather? Soaking like submerged in oil or what?
- How long does it take to dry?
- How do you get the depressions like the trigger guard and trigger. Some vacuum or something?
- And confirm, it is neatsfoot oil and not water to do this forming and drying.
- Any kind of neatsfoot? I hear some swear by Fiebing's for some reason so wonder if you have a preference too.
Anything else you might suggest for a first timer would be appreciated. Sorry to bug you on what you might think is common sense but I've just never done anything with leather other than use it. Well, except for my old baseball glove and that I did use neatsfoot oil to shape a pocket for the ball. But I don't remember how wet I got it or how long it took to dry or any of the particulars involved to get that pocket formed. And it was heavily used immediately after anyone so not really sure what I did had anything to do with the end pocket anyway. That was like 62 years ago or more when I was somewhere around 12 or 14 when I got my first new glove. A glove lost in time too.
My Buck 505 came in today. I recently got the 506 and 501. There is a 507 that has pearl scales that I got outbid on, I'll find one in time.
View attachment 82067
From top down, 500 Duke
501 Squire
503 Prince
505 Knight
506 White Knight (I guess it was, 35 years ago when it was new. The script logo places it between 1979 and 1985). The same date range for the 500 and 503.
Tracking info on my package shows it arrived in Austin, hopefully it will make it to Pflugerville tomorrow and be delivered as scheduled.
Hey Scott, that's the same brown sheath that I brought as well. But it won't arrive until Monday.
1/4” leather is used , a model of the weapon is needed , plastic or wood. Child’s toy gun. Coat the model with wax so it doesn’t stick to the wet leather. Warm water soaking with the model in will emboss it using your fingers
When the leather drys , it will be stiff and molded. Cut out what’s not wanted while the model is still in.
use automotive leather cleaner , paste, to keep it from drying out . Using oil on embossed leather will get soft and you will loose the embossing !!
BTW, before starting , the two pieces or leather must be sewn together loosely. Use the model weapon as a tight fit. After the molding is done , a final sewing is done to its shape. Yes a comercial sewing machine is needed .
Needsfoot oil is used on leather only if you want it soft and plyable , Re baseball gloves , knife sheaths .
Thanks very much. I was thinking it almost had to be water you use. Do you have a particular 'automotive leather cleaner , paste" you've found works better than others? Or what kind do you currently use. I can see now how people ruin a good holster by putting oil on it thinking they are keeping it from drying out. I don't normally use leather preferring Kydex due to the humidity here and not wanting a dampish holster ruining a gun with rust when stored in my closet. Kydex is just so much safer in that regard.
I do have a knife sheath I'd like to try this on. I bet you use some kind of drier to shorten the drying process. I'll have to let mother nature do the best she can knowing humidity is my enemy and spring and humidity are just around the corner.
So Frank...you do your own leather work? That holster looks really good!
Funny story.
35 years ago , I was at a range. I admired the guy next to me had this fancy holster on. Got talkin , and he was a local shoemaker. Remember them ? Asked him about making me one for my 38s&w. He invited me to to watch the process and learn me how to do.
You need a lot of comercial machines if your to make them , sewing , grinders , cutters, buffers ect. Unfortunately he passed on a year or two after that. Those old timers knew there stuff. But he taught me a lot during the process while making it.
He probably was the guy that put the heel taps on my boots back in the late 50’s-60’s.
We had a shoemaker here until about a year ago...his name was Gordy. He was in the local motorcycle gang too...the Bear Creek Bandits. His downtown shop closed up a little while back. Don’t know if he retired or passed away.
All those machines were on one large shaft. Belt driven with one motor. Two HUGE sewing machines , and a lot of bandaids
Our guy had a bunch of separate machines. The place always smelled like old leather. You could smell it from 20 feet outside the door of the shop.
You gonna make your own sheath?
Nope , the one that came with the 110 is fine. Has a double layer inside to prevent accidental release. I just gave it a a good dose of leather cream.
Funny story.
35 years ago , I was at a range. I admired the guy next to me had this fancy holster on. Got talkin , and he was a local shoemaker. Remember them ? Asked him about making me one for my 38s&w. He invited me to to watch the process and learn me how to do.
You need a lot of comercial machines if your to make them , sewing , grinders , cutters, buffers ect. Unfortunately he passed on a year or two after that. Those old timers knew there stuff. But he taught me a lot during the process while making it.
He probably was the guy that put the heel taps on my boots back in the late 50’s-60’s. Yup, I was one of those cool �� guys making noise in the high school hall ways .
Just one of those things left embedded into this pea brain left.
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