I installed a ball type fuel petc0ck and larger auto type fuel filter in line on 1997 Honda GL1500 Trike
Few years ago I decided to use a larger metal fuel filter, like used on some cars. I had found that the metal line from pump was 5/16" but the OEM hose expanded to 3/8" at the filter. What I did that day was make a 5/16-3/8 adapter and form metal lines that run the fuel from tank exit over in a steady curve down the left side top of tank to the rear of the tank where I transition with a short piece of 5/16" rubber line to connect to the fuel filter, then connect same way to more metal and run forwards up top of tank on the right side where it connected to a rubber line about 8" long to my adapter to step up to OEM grey Honda 3/8" curved hose to the vacuum petc0ck. The adapter resided where OEM filter once did. I simply took the one end of ball valve and pressed a piece of 3/8 copper tube over it, the ball valve is now my adapter too . I did this to both give me a bigger filter (Purolator F44663 … or equivilant) and put it in an easily accessed place for service (under seat rear, seat comes of fast with just 4 socket head bolts).
When a metal line ends, I started a bubble flare just to get a smooth bulge in the end to help seal my hoses, I also used a few clamps.
I know I can run fuel down in carbs by pulling the vacuum line off the OEM petc0ck, but I decided to put a ball type fuel valve there where it was easy to access with just opening the fuel door. The filter remains under the seat at rear of tank in a "void area". I also removed the OEM vacuum petc0ck and bracket, slotted those two holes so in the future if it leaks (I can loosen the two lower screws with a short bit in 1/4 ratchet wrench through the gas door easily, pull it up a little ... and remove all 4 screws to replace innards in place.)So now, I can starve the carbs prior to storage by manual ball valve through fuel door. I did replace the fuel line with FI rated hose I had bought for the purpose, the petc0ck had one removable end so I removed it, set the plastic like seal aside, sweat soldered that piece of 3/8 copper to the smaller 5/16 barb to seal it for sure (glad I removed the ball's seal first) after sanding the plating off the brass, then put it all back together, & took some pics of dusty trike too.
I didn't just remove the OEM vacuum operated fuel valve because it is perfect for temporary parking like at meals, motels, gas stops, etc. The new petc0ck is for use to run the carbs dry before storage. If I were on a trip, etc and if the OEM auto fuel valve did start leaking or developed a vacuum leak and shut … because I adapted the end of the new ball valve up to 3/8" , I could do the hose swap deal to bypass the AFV and still have a means to shut fuel off at night or lunch or etc.
I swear, gonna wax her up tomorrow!
Few years ago I decided to use a larger metal fuel filter, like used on some cars. I had found that the metal line from pump was 5/16" but the OEM hose expanded to 3/8" at the filter. What I did that day was make a 5/16-3/8 adapter and form metal lines that run the fuel from tank exit over in a steady curve down the left side top of tank to the rear of the tank where I transition with a short piece of 5/16" rubber line to connect to the fuel filter, then connect same way to more metal and run forwards up top of tank on the right side where it connected to a rubber line about 8" long to my adapter to step up to OEM grey Honda 3/8" curved hose to the vacuum petc0ck. The adapter resided where OEM filter once did. I simply took the one end of ball valve and pressed a piece of 3/8 copper tube over it, the ball valve is now my adapter too . I did this to both give me a bigger filter (Purolator F44663 … or equivilant) and put it in an easily accessed place for service (under seat rear, seat comes of fast with just 4 socket head bolts).
When a metal line ends, I started a bubble flare just to get a smooth bulge in the end to help seal my hoses, I also used a few clamps.
I know I can run fuel down in carbs by pulling the vacuum line off the OEM petc0ck, but I decided to put a ball type fuel valve there where it was easy to access with just opening the fuel door. The filter remains under the seat at rear of tank in a "void area". I also removed the OEM vacuum petc0ck and bracket, slotted those two holes so in the future if it leaks (I can loosen the two lower screws with a short bit in 1/4 ratchet wrench through the gas door easily, pull it up a little ... and remove all 4 screws to replace innards in place.)So now, I can starve the carbs prior to storage by manual ball valve through fuel door. I did replace the fuel line with FI rated hose I had bought for the purpose, the petc0ck had one removable end so I removed it, set the plastic like seal aside, sweat soldered that piece of 3/8 copper to the smaller 5/16 barb to seal it for sure (glad I removed the ball's seal first) after sanding the plating off the brass, then put it all back together, & took some pics of dusty trike too.
I didn't just remove the OEM vacuum operated fuel valve because it is perfect for temporary parking like at meals, motels, gas stops, etc. The new petc0ck is for use to run the carbs dry before storage. If I were on a trip, etc and if the OEM auto fuel valve did start leaking or developed a vacuum leak and shut … because I adapted the end of the new ball valve up to 3/8" , I could do the hose swap deal to bypass the AFV and still have a means to shut fuel off at night or lunch or etc.
I swear, gonna wax her up tomorrow!
