What could it be?

[sled]

Have a Freewheeler gentleman and ladies so have you had any starting problems - I just experienced one & maybe you know a fix for DIY'ers ?

I can attest it's not a battery issue from being under-charged.

I got this 2016 (FLRT) trike a month back and as it was starting beautifully till it didn't - button engaged the starter and it began to rotate with that heavy mechanical sound (like usual),

but then - -

It stopped rotating and a faint rapid sta-tic, sta-tic, sta-tic like noise was present along with the speedo lights flashing very rapidly too. Maybe the indicator bezel symbols lights flashed as well. Can't remember if the starter button was depressed with all this faint sound and lights flickering. (Maybe at 1st), because moving the switch to either Acc. or Ign. positions on the switch makes this happen now. Oh and the starter button doesn't do a thing now.

Just moving the switch makes this sound and gauges lights flicker with no function of the starter button.

I'm as you thinking it could be a low battery or poor connection somewhere has this sound origins, but as for the lights all flickering - - - that to me leads in my thoughts of a short has happened somewhere. Got any ideas as to what my trikes electrical problem is ???

The switch may be faulty and has shorted out ?

Where should I start my troubleshooting at and what's this path should be to follow?

I've ordered a new ignition switch with matching fork and trunk locks and keys.

But I'm lost as to my main electrical problem at hand and in figuring that out - though once it's pin pointed I can fix it myself.

Respect to any helpful answers and comments that lead but not to any with discouragement.

Thanks ya all.

 

[ROAD DOG]

Have a Freewheeler gentleman and ladies so have you had any starting problems - I just experienced one & maybe you know a fix for DIY'ers ?

I can attest it's not a battery issue from being under-charged.

I got this 2016 (FLRT) trike a month back and as it was starting beautifully till it didn't - button engaged the starter and it began to rotate with that heavy mechanical sound (like usual),

but then - -

It stopped rotating and a faint rapid sta-tic, sta-tic, sta-tic like noise was present along with the speedo lights flashing very rapidly too. Maybe the indicator bezel symbols lights flashed as well. Can't remember if the starter button was depressed with all this faint sound and lights flickering. (Maybe at 1st), because moving the switch to either Acc. or Ign. positions on the switch makes this happen now. Oh and the starter button doesn't do a thing now.

Just moving the switch makes this sound and gauges lights flicker with no function of the starter button.

I'm as you thinking it could be a low battery or poor connection somewhere has this sound origins, but as for the lights all flickering - - - that to me leads in my thoughts of a short has happened somewhere. Got any ideas as to what my trikes electrical problem is ???

The switch may be faulty and has shorted out ?

Where should I start my troubleshooting at and what's this path should be to follow?

I've ordered a new ignition switch with matching fork and trunk locks and keys.

But I'm lost as to my main electrical problem at hand and in figuring that out - though once it's pin pointed I can fix it myself.

Respect to any helpful answers and comments that lead but not to any with discouragement.

Thanks ya all.

I would bet that the battery is N F G ? How did you test it ? how old is it ? Thats were I would start to look .

 

[rhino 2]

Have a Freewheeler gentleman and ladies so have you had any starting problems - I just experienced one & maybe you know a fix for DIY'ers ?

I can attest it's not a battery issue from being under-charged.

I got this 2016 (FLRT) trike a month back and as it was starting beautifully till it didn't - button engaged the starter and it began to rotate with that heavy mechanical sound (like usual),

but then - -

It stopped rotating and a faint rapid sta-tic, sta-tic, sta-tic like noise was present along with the speedo lights flashing very rapidly too. Maybe the indicator bezel symbols lights flashed as well. Can't remember if the starter button was depressed with all this faint sound and lights flickering. (Maybe at 1st), because moving the switch to either Acc. or Ign. positions on the switch makes this happen now. Oh and the starter button doesn't do a thing now.

Just moving the switch makes this sound and gauges lights flicker with no function of the starter button.

I'm as you thinking it could be a low battery or poor connection somewhere has this sound origins, but as for the lights all flickering - - - that to me leads in my thoughts of a short has happened somewhere. Got any ideas as to what my trikes electrical problem is ???

The switch may be faulty and has shorted out ?

Where should I start my troubleshooting at and what's this path should be to follow?

I've ordered a new ignition switch with matching fork and trunk locks and keys.

But I'm lost as to my main electrical problem at hand and in figuring that out - though once it's pin pointed I can fix it myself.

Respect to any helpful answers and comments that lead but not to any with discouragement.

Thanks ya all.

Occam’s Razor….The law of Parsimony…. Go to the easiest thing first check the battery!…

 

[sled]

I would bet that the battery is N F G ? How did you test it ? how old is it ? Thats were I would start to look .

Occam’s Razor….The law of Parsimony…. Go to the easiest thing first check the battery!…

Haven't tested the battery as it was working a few days before without any issue at all.

Logically the battery would be 1st on the list of faults that I've indicated of sounds origin.

Thing is it's apart now waiting those new parts ordered - got the main harness under the tank console ordered as well (keeper ear was broken on one connection), as it's coming with the main switch ordered and a few other under tank console items.

Prior trike use - it was like this, the last 4 days before my electrical problem, I had rode it 2-3 times a day (say 8 time in 4 days). The night it messed up I had come home after a two hour ride and let it set an hour outside to cool down before putting it in the garage.

That's when this happened - when I came out an hour later. And I should SAY out of the blue! As I had nothing like this show it's ugly demeanor before.

I couldn't get it in the garage that night but the next day I did and hooked up the trickle charger which showed there was no charge being given off (used it a couple times prior too). Battery functioned superbly in the time I've own it.

-Why would it cause the starter not to at least make a click as trying to engage. Though my dial and gauges lights flashed or fluttered like something was grounding out that shouldn't be...?

Logically I should track all the connections in the starting circuits route when I've got it back together, and insure that there is no breakage or short in that circuits path.

What about the ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) can it cause any troubles like I've stated? What about a voltage regulator shorting out all of a sudden? Maybe the the start button is grounding out?

My dial lights do light up and rapidly flutter on-off in IGN position with that sta-tic sound- explain that? Though if memory serves me correct ACC position the light flutter but no sound is herd.

Thanks

 

[Jack Klarich]

Haven't tested the battery as it was working a few days before without any issue at all.

Logically the battery would be 1st on the list of faults that I've indicated of sounds origin.

Thing is it's apart now waiting those new parts ordered - got the main harness under the tank ordered as well (keeper ear was broken on one connection), as it's coming with the main switch ordered and a few other under tank items.

Prior trike use - it was like this, the last 4 days before my electrical problem, I had rode it 2-3 times a day (say 8 time in 4 days). The night it messed up I had come home after a two hour ride and let it set an hour outside to cool down before putting it in the garage.

That's when this happened - when I came out an hour later. And I should SAY out of the blue! As I had nothing like this show it's ugly demeanor before.

I couldn't get it in the garage that night but the next day I did and hooked up the trickle charger which showed there was no charge being given off (used it a couple times prior too). Battery functioned superbly in the time I've own it.

-Why would it cause the starter not to at least make a click as trying to engage. Though my dial and gauges lights flashed or fluttered like something was grounding out that shouldn't be...?

Logically I should track all the connections in the starting circuits route when I've got it back together, and insure that there is no breakage or short in that circuits path.

What about the ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) can it cause any troubles like I've stated? What about a voltage regulator shorting out all of a sudden? Maybe the the start button grounded out.

My dail lights do light up and rapidly flutter on off - explain that?

Thanks

If you have a control module problem , ascan of your trike will show that

Follow this link to do a scan

https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html

Before you go any further, hook a volt meter to your battery, turn on the ignition, if your battery voltage is 10 volts and continues to drop, replace your battery. Charge a new battery before attempting to restart your bike

Good Luck

 

[sled]

If you have a control module problem , ascan of your trike will show that

Follow this link to do a scan

https://www.fuelmotousa.com/p-29661-harley-trouble-codes.html

Before you go any further, hook a volt meter to your battery, turn on the ignition, if your battery voltage is 10 volts and continues to drop, replace your battery. Charge a new battery before attempting to restart your bike

Good Luck

Appreciated this !

 

[rhino 2]

Haven't tested the battery as it was working a few days before without any issue at all.

Logically the battery would be 1st on the list of faults that I've indicated of sounds origin.

Thing is it's apart now waiting those new parts ordered - got the main harness under the tank ordered as well (keeper ear was broken on one connection), as it's coming with the main switch ordered and a few other under tank items.

Prior trike use - it was like this, the last 4 days before my electrical problem, I had rode it 2-3 times a day (say 8 time in 4 days). The night it messed up I had come home after a two hour ride and let it set an hour outside to cool down before putting it in the garage.

That's when this happened - when I came out an hour later. And I should SAY out of the blue! As I had nothing like this show it's ugly demeanor before.

I couldn't get it in the garage that night but the next day I did and hooked up the trickle charger which showed there was no charge being given off (used it a couple times prior too). Battery functioned superbly in the time I've own it.

-Why would it cause the starter not to at least make a click as trying to engage. Though my dial and gauges lights flashed or fluttered like something was grounding out that shouldn't be...?

Logically I should track all the connections in the starting circuits route when I've got it back together, and insure that there is no breakage or short in that circuits path.

What about the ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) can it cause any troubles like I've stated? What about a voltage regulator shorting out all of a sudden? Maybe the the start button is grounding out?

My dial lights do light up and rapidly flutter on-off in IGN position with that sta-tic sound- explain that? Though if memory serves me correct ACC position the light flutter but no sound is herd.

Thanks

Batteries are mysterious black boxes that will give up the Ghost without even a New York second's warning.......Trickle Chargers will not work on a dead battery, Or if there's a bad cell in the battery...

 

[cScjhb]

From your description, the problem is almost certainty a battery that has gone south. These small bike batteries can go bad without warning. Also, check all your battery connections for tightness and condition. And put star washers on them to keep them good and tight. I'd bet my next month's wages that a new battery will eliminate your problem.

(BTW; I'm retired and don't work ) Good luck..... Jim

 

[BillR]

I can attest it's not a battery issue from being under-charged.

I got this 2016 (FLRT) trike a month back and as it was starting beautifully till it didn't

I'm as you thinking it could be a low battery or poor connection somewhere has this sound originsRespect to any helpful answers and comments

Thanks ya all.

Haven't tested the battery as it was working a few days before without any issue at all.

Logically the battery would be 1st on the list of faults that I've indicated of sounds origin.

Logically I should track all the connections.

What about the ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) can it cause any troubles like I've stated?

Thanks

These are all classic sounds of a bad battery. In five minutes, you can put a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals. (disconnect the negative terminal from the battery first so there is no possibility of anything else except the battery from influencing the readings) A fully charged battery should read 12.7v. 12.0v is 50% charge. I'm guessing your reading will be 11-11.5v. Probably a shorted cell. If that is the original battery, you have gotten your moneys worth at 5 years. Ought to get a fresh one for the colder months anyway.

RESPECT INTENDED

Bill

 

[sled]

I will update this thread when I can - meaning the trikes together and progress is made and the cause has been determined.

But in the mean time for you battery guys - give me a way to test the battery with it rotating the starter unit. If that hotwire method will not mess up anything else. Then we'll all know my batteries good at least to spin the starter.

OK

 

[sled]

These are all classic sounds of a bad battery. In five minutes, you can put a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals. (disconnect the negative terminal from the battery first so there is no possibility of anything else except the battery from influencing the readings) A fully charged battery should read 12.7v. 12.0v is 50% charge. I'm guessing your reading will be 11-11.5v. Probably a shorted cell. If that is the original battery, you have gotten your moneys worth at 5 years. Ought to get a fresh one for the colder months anyway.

RESPECT INTENDED

Bill

Barring me having a digital voltmeter - I don't presently, what shade tree method can I use. To hot-wire (jumper cables) the starter motor off my battery without frying anything else?

So we can get my battery out of the equation of my electrical problem for good.



Respect Intended

Thanks

 

[Jack Klarich]

I will update this thread when I can - meaning the trikes together and progress is made and the cause has been determined.

But in the mean time for you battery guys - give me a way to test the battery with it rotating the starter unit. If that hotwire method will not mess up anything else. Then we'll all know my batteries good at least to spin the starter.

OK

Forget that hot wire test. You need to load test to get accurate battery status.

With the battery hooked up to a volt meter, if you are not showing 12.7 volts, stop and charge the battery

When you hit the start button with a volt meter hooked up @ the battery, if your voltage drop is 10 volts or less it aint going to start and that battery fails a ( in frame simple) load test

This is a simple in vehicle load test for a battery, however, removing the battery and having a carbon pile load test will show the same results IMO

Keep in mind, any electrical tests one wants to do requires a fully charged battery

I hope this clears up my prior posts and good luck

Most ignitions need at least 10.5 volts to fire, let alone that voltage to spin the engine over and fire the ignition

 

[rhino 2]

I will update this thread when I can - meaning the trikes together and progress is made and the cause has been determined.

But in the mean time for you battery guys - give me a way to test the battery with it rotating the starter unit. If that hotwire method will not mess up anything else. Then we'll all know my batteries good at least to spin the starter.

OK

Rick....Take the battery out, Take a ride to Auto Zone and let them load test it...In my humble opinion your chasing problems that don't exist...One simple load test will tell you if i'm right or wrong..:Shrug:..

 

[sled]

Forget that hot wire test. You need to load test to get accurate battery status.

With the battery hooked up to a volt meter, if you are not showing 12.7 volts, stop and charge the battery

When you hit the start button with a volt meter hooked up @ the battery, if your voltage drop is 10 volts or less it aint going to start and that battery fails a ( in frame simple) load test

This is a simple in vehicle load test for a battery, however, removing the battery and having a carbon pile load test will show the same results IMO

Keep in mind, any electrical tests one wants to do requires a fully charged battery

I hope this clears up my prior posts and good luck

Most ignitions need at least 10.5 volts to fire, let alone that voltage to spin the engine over and fire the ignition

All I was wanting to know if my battery has the power enough to spin the starter motor, as such it should work then from the handlebar button.

-It's like a short has happened to alter the dial lights from staying lit up solid, and then that noise herd came from the voltage regulator area possibly.

No I don't hear the electric fuel pump initial prime happening either.

I've got a 2011 Pro Street chopper and a 2009 FXDL low rider setting here with good batteries but their smaller looking than my trikes battery. Or I would try switching them out to run down a definite batter issue.

Thanks

 

[sled]

Rick....Take the battery out, Take a ride to Auto Zone and let them load test it...In my humble opinion your chasing problems that don't exist...One simple load test will tell you if i'm right or wrong..:Shrug:..

I'm not fighting you and I don't know it all - willing to learn and pay my dues.

But the battery never did fail and has been seen strong in the months ownership of this 2016 trike.

Like I said it would be my 1st call out if I had any problems from it prior as a substandard voltage supply.

This trike always has flashed the gas warning symbol - could maybe that non-functioning fuel level sensor be my trouble to short out somewhere. It ran out of gas on me when I went to pick up the trike 3 hours away and riding it home. Figured at 6 gal topped off and 45 miles to each gal I get more than 180 miles before dryville. Though I ran hard 80/95 most of the 3 hours.

Respect Intended

Thanks

-sled has left the forum for today

 

[cScjhb]

How the battery preformed yesterday (in the past) has nothing to do with how it preforms now. Several years ago I embarked on a cross country trip. I always kept my bike on a tender. On the first day the bike started perfectly. I rode a little over 300 miles and stopped for the night at a motel. Next morning I had no battery! Nada, Zilch, Zero. It was if the battery had been removed from the bike. Towed to a dealer who replaced the battery and checked my charging system. The charging system was perfect. It was just time for the battery to go to Eveready Heaven. As suggested, remove your battery. Take it to an auto parts/battery store. Have it properly load tested and be prepared to exchange it for a new, lively, replacement..... Jim

 

[Jack Klarich]

I'm not fighting you and I don't know it all - willing to learn and pay my dues.

But the battery never did fail and has been seen strong in the months ownership of this 2016 trike.

Like I said it would be my 1st call out if I had any problems from it prior as a substandard voltage supply.

This trike always has flashed the gas warning symbol - could maybe that non-functioning fuel level sensor be my trouble to short out somewhere. It ran out of gas on me when I went to pick up the trike 3 hours away and riding it home. Figured at 6 gal topped off and 45 miles to each gal I get more than 180 miles before dryville. Though I ran hard 80/95 most of the 3 hours.

Respect Intended

Thanks

-sled has left the forum for today

If you have a problem with your fuel light flashing, a scan as a pointed out to you would help you to clear that and any other module that was a problem

This should be done first, ( BUT, be sure you have a known good battery)

The reasoning here is modern day electrical systems rely on specific electrical signals to report back to the BCM and ECM, any deviations from this voltage can and will flag the ECM to do what it does besides just monitor systems. It will lead up to erratic running, no starts and check engine lights.

 

[nucseal]

How the battery preformed yesterday (in the past) has nothing to do with how it preforms now. Several years ago I embarked on a cross country trip. I always kept my bike on a tender. On the first day the bike started perfectly. I rode a little over 300 miles and stopped for the night at a motel. Next morning I had no battery! Nada, Zilch, Zero. It was if the battery had been removed from the bike. Towed to a dealer who replaced the battery and checked my charging system. The charging system was perfect. It was just time for the battery to go to Eveready Heaven. As suggested, remove your battery. Take it to an auto parts/battery store. Have it properly load tested and be prepared to exchange it for a new, lively, replacement..... Jim

+1 I rode my 16 Tri Glide 200 miles. Got off, had lunch. Came back out, nothing (DEAD as a door nail). Uber down to Harley picked up a battery, installed and rode off to my next stop!

 

[DOKK]

I've had batteries do the exact thing you are describing in multiple vehicles over the years. Get a new battery, charge it up and ride on. It's really that simple. When a battery is done, it's done and sometimes with no warning whatsoever.

 

[W3JNP]

Like others have said, a battery can go bad in a heartbeat.

I’ve had one fail (shorted) when I stopped for fuel after one plus hours on the road.

It was fine at the start of my ride but was dead as can be when I tried to restart my bike after filling up.