Anyone use this product or something similar to tie down the rear of their Trike?
https://ericksonmfg.com/product/wheel-chock-and-strap-kit/
https://ericksonmfg.com/product/wheel-chock-and-strap-kit/
Erickson wheel chock kit
- Thread starter Blueraven
- Start date
rhino 2
100000 + Posts
Those wheels on the side by are clear of the fenders but with a Tri-Glide I don’t think you can get the straps around the tires with out damage to the fenders?
- Thread starter
- #3
The way the fenders are on a Tri-Glide you’re probably right this setup wouldn’t likely work.
However on a Freewheeler which is what I’m tying down the fenders flare out in the back so access shouldn’t be an issue.
rhino 2
100000 + Posts
Free wheeler or triglide it definitely won’t work on the front tire don’t know about the free wheels but tri-glides come with tiedowns on the back axle,..
Freewheeler has tie-down loops
Owner's manual is the same for Freewheeler and for TriGlide:
2021 HARLEY-DAVIDSON® OWNER'S MANUAL: TRIKE MODELS
The rear axle has steel loops on the bottom (left and right sides) which may be used to tie down the rear end of the vehicle when transporting on a trailer.
Owner's manual is the same for Freewheeler and for TriGlide:
2021 HARLEY-DAVIDSON® OWNER'S MANUAL: TRIKE MODELS
The rear axle has steel loops on the bottom (left and right sides) which may be used to tie down the rear end of the vehicle when transporting on a trailer.
- Thread starter
- #6
I know what the books states concerning the hooks in the rear but that’s not what I’m inquiring about.
What I’m inquiring about is has anyone used the Erickson wheel chock kit or something similar.
I think for Tri-glide riders the answer is likely no.
Rmitchell55
850+ Posts
I have a set of straps that are the same as used on auto transporters with the mounts mounted to the bed of my trailer. it has three attachment points and ratchets down the rear tires. I don't remember the name of the company but they came out of Dallas, Texas.
- Thread starter
- #8
Well I got the Erickson wheel chock kit installed.
First; if you’ve got a Triglide save your time and move on this ain’t going to work for you.
The way the Triglide fenders wrap the wheels in front and back will likely not allow for enough space.
I think you could ratchet down the straps but there’s not enough clearance to release the straps.
If you have a Freewheeler, UTV, ATV, lawn tractor or a car to trailer this setup is pretty sweet.
Installation was easy and it only takes a couple of minutes to strap down the rear wheels.
I think with this setup all you really need is this kit and you’re good to go.
I however like to go overboard so I ended up strapping the rear hooks and securing the front.
Took the rig for a short ride down the highway and down a known bumpy back road and the Freewheeler never moved.
On a final note; when unloading you have to be on level ground or facing uphill.
The electric reverse motor isn’t strong enough to get over the rear chock if the bike is facing downhill.
If you notice in the attached pictures the Freewheeler is facing down a slight slope in my driveway.
I could not off-load the Freewheeler in this position as I popped the reverse breaker so I had to pull out into the street to get the trailer level.
First; if you’ve got a Triglide save your time and move on this ain’t going to work for you.
The way the Triglide fenders wrap the wheels in front and back will likely not allow for enough space.
I think you could ratchet down the straps but there’s not enough clearance to release the straps.
If you have a Freewheeler, UTV, ATV, lawn tractor or a car to trailer this setup is pretty sweet.
Installation was easy and it only takes a couple of minutes to strap down the rear wheels.
I think with this setup all you really need is this kit and you’re good to go.
I however like to go overboard so I ended up strapping the rear hooks and securing the front.
Took the rig for a short ride down the highway and down a known bumpy back road and the Freewheeler never moved.
On a final note; when unloading you have to be on level ground or facing uphill.
The electric reverse motor isn’t strong enough to get over the rear chock if the bike is facing downhill.
If you notice in the attached pictures the Freewheeler is facing down a slight slope in my driveway.
I could not off-load the Freewheeler in this position as I popped the reverse breaker so I had to pull out into the street to get the trailer level.
I have them on my trailer. They take a while to install to make sure they are in the middle of both tires to rachet down. I used them for a can am F3 spyder. The thing you have to be carful with is make sure that you are in the middle of the tire when you strap it down. You have to rachet the tire down pretty tight, then after you drive for a while you need to check the straps.
When I was trailering my Can am one of the straps came off . So check the tie down straps a lot.
When I was trailering my Can am one of the straps came off . So check the tie down straps a lot.
- Thread starter
- #10
Very sound advice.
That’s why unless I’m just taking the Freewheeler someplace locally I would never just rely on the 2 rear tire straps.
The time and expense to add 2 straps to the rear and 2 to the front end is far less time and expense than trying to get the Freewheeler out of the ditch and back onto the trailer when it decided to egress itself from the trailer.
rhino 2
100000 + Posts
Since 2011.. Whenever I have to trailer one of my trikes I just Ratchet strap it on the two hooks on the rear axle and one strap through the front wheel with a towel under the strap to protect the wheel I never had a strap come off/lose or the trike move at all..
- Thread starter
- #12
I wanted to post a follow-up on this Erickson wheel chock kit.
After a few load/unloads it is apparent that getting over the rear chock with the electric reverse in my opinion puts too much stress on the reverse motor.
Since the front of the rear wheels were tight against the front chocks anyway the rear chocks really weren’t serving any purpose so I decided to remove the rear chocks and replace them with 6”X5” e-track plates.
These e-track plates provide the same function as the rear Erickson chocks did which is simply a tie down point but are only about 1/2” tall.
So in my opinion if this type of setup is desired I would simple go with either e-track plates in front and rear of the rear wheels or perhaps better would be to put down two extended length of e-track rails and park the rear wheels on the track, then take two 2” ratchet e-straps and secure the rear wheels.
In closing just so as to be fair; nowhere does Erickson state that their wheel chock kit works for a Harley Freewheeler.
I simple thought it was a good idea and decided to try it out.
I still have a good tie down system but could have gotten the same results a little cheaper than the $50 I spent on this kit
After a few load/unloads it is apparent that getting over the rear chock with the electric reverse in my opinion puts too much stress on the reverse motor.
Since the front of the rear wheels were tight against the front chocks anyway the rear chocks really weren’t serving any purpose so I decided to remove the rear chocks and replace them with 6”X5” e-track plates.
These e-track plates provide the same function as the rear Erickson chocks did which is simply a tie down point but are only about 1/2” tall.
So in my opinion if this type of setup is desired I would simple go with either e-track plates in front and rear of the rear wheels or perhaps better would be to put down two extended length of e-track rails and park the rear wheels on the track, then take two 2” ratchet e-straps and secure the rear wheels.
In closing just so as to be fair; nowhere does Erickson state that their wheel chock kit works for a Harley Freewheeler.
I simple thought it was a good idea and decided to try it out.
I still have a good tie down system but could have gotten the same results a little cheaper than the $50 I spent on this kit
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