Rear wheel wobble.

[klkordzi]

I have a 2006 Harley Ultra Classic with a CSC Daytona trike kit on it. I noticed recently when checking things over, a very slight movement movement when I grab the top and bottom of the rear wheel and try to wobble the wheel. It isn't the wheel to that's moving, it's the hub. I tightened the nut on the shaft and I can still feel a slight wobble. Is this normal or is it the bearing on the wheel hub?

 

[rhino 2]

I have a 2006 Harley Ultra Classic with a CSC Daytona trike kit on it. I noticed recently when checking things over, a very slight movement movement when I grab the top and bottom of the rear wheel and try to wobble the wheel. It isn't the wheel to that's moving, it's the hub. I tightened the nut on the shaft and I can still feel a slight wobble. Is this normal or is it the bearing on the wheel hub?

How many miles on the trike??

Sounds like a bearing…If you can lift the rear wheels off the ground and spin the wheel by hand listening for crunching or grinding sound and if so That bearing is on its way out..

 

[Jack Klarich]

There should be no play @ the wheel when torqued to spec, check the other side also

You have a bearing going bad

 

[Wing'n It]

Just went through this with my 2019 Honda/CSC at 8100 miles. No wobble but horrible noise and vibration, left side hub bearing unit failed. I appears to have been assembled with no lube went new. This is NOT a CSC problem since they just source them (standard auto part item)

 

[klkordzi]

Rear hub

I've seen reference to the front bearing hubs from a 97 cavalier working. Is this true?

 

[Marc H]

https://www.triketalk.com/forum/threads/62678-2019-CSC-Goldwing-rear-diff-failure-at-8000-miles!

I have not had to replace mine so I can't personally confirm.

 

[ROAD DOG]

I've seen reference to the front bearing hubs from a 97 cavalier working. Is this true?

Yes chevy cavalier fit I have the part # for them I will get it in the morning, I just had to replace one on my 2021 Roadmaster CSC trike, I did both sides Carquest has some real good one's that are black coated instead of the raw metal, They were around $ 88. each you can buy cheap ones for $ 40 - $ 50. I did this when replacing the defective differential & the defective rear shock, at the same time I replaced the scary rear tires, Finished it last night around 11 pm test road today, It,s like new again, hope it last longer this time about 7500 miles on it . my 2008 goldwing I had done a right rear wheel bearing and a rear shock at 6000 miles .

 

[Jack Klarich]

Napa part # BR930028k

 

[ROAD DOG]

Bearing

Here's Carquest, Genden, Advance auto parts bearing number 91-45065 I think Cavalier front non ABS is the same all years. Check out the picture of these versus the other brands . I don't know why the right rear wheel bearing in these burn up 6 - 8000 miles for what there is for weight on that wheel compared to a car ????? I pulled the dust shield off the new ones to be sure they had grease in them, they were good, I also check the bearing on the new differential to be sure there was grease.

 

[klkordzi]

Wheel bearing

Thanks everyone. I'm a big fan of Rockauto and they have Timken and Moog for half the price of CSC and other local auto parts stores.

 

[BrokenBackJack]

Thank You

Thanks for this thread and all the posts.

 

[klkordzi]

Follow up question

Next question. How do you get the rear brake caliper off? I can get the bottom bolt off but I cant get a socket or wrench on the top one.

 

[klkordzi]

Next question

How do you get the rear caliper off? I can get the bottom bolt off but can't get a socket or a wrench on the top bolt.

 

[ROAD DOG]

How do you get the rear caliper off? I can get the bottom bolt off but can't get a socket or a wrench on the top bolt.

My caliper sits on the top of the rotor at say 12 o'clock there's two 9/16 bolts I used a long boxed end wrench

 

[ROAD DOG]

How do you get the rear caliper off? I can get the bottom bolt off but can't get a socket or a wrench on the top bolt.

Post a picture

 

[klkordzi]

Caliper

I don't know why I didn't try that. I was using a ratcheting wrench which is obviously thicker and wider.

 

[klkordzi]

Wheel bearing

All done. I was able to track down the original wheel bearing hub by the part number and it was a Moog hub for a 97 Chevy Cavalier. CSC sells them for $70, Rock Auto cost me $35. I'm assuming the rotor is probably for the same vehicle?

 

[Jack Klarich]

All done. I was able to track down the original wheel bearing hub by the part number and it was a Moog hub for a 97 Chevy Cavalier. CSC sells them for $70, Rock Auto cost me $35. I'm assuming the rotor is probably for the same vehicle?

Are your rotors vented?

The Cavalier rotors were, many trike rear rotors are solid

 

[pwhoever]

Not trying to hijack thread, but I think I'm suffering from a bad hub bearing now too. I'm fresh off replacing the pinion seal which was a success but have noticed now a pretty good vibration while running at highway speeds which gets worse as I speed up. I don't remember noticing it before and might just be a coincedence. I dont feel it in the handlebars but can feel it on the aquaboards as well as by reaching back and grabbing onto the passenger hand holds. So something in rear is suspect.

After seeing this thread and reading up about hub bearings, it seems like that's the issue. I did the shaking of wheel top and bottom as well as side to side but don't get any movement. I then spun the left wheel and it seems smooth. But spinning the right wheel, it sounds a bit different and has an ever slight gritty like rubbing sand sound. I figure that I need to replace that.

So because of this thread, I know that the hubs are from a 97 Cavalier front. Excellent info and thanks. And watching some YouTube videos, it seems like it's not a very difficult jcoincidence based on this thread, the lack of proper lubrication has me concerned. I will probably order from Rockauto because of the price and don't need the parts immediately, just soon as I have an upcoming trip in about a week and a half. But I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to just go and replace both while I'm at it as a preventative measure. Thoughts?

My other concern though is that if these failed hubs are Moog parts as @klkordzi mentions, maybe going with Timkens might be the better choice?

 

[ROAD DOG]

Not trying to hijack thread, but I think I'm suffering from a bad hub bearing now too. I'm fresh off replacing the pinion seal which was a success but have noticed now a pretty good vibration while running at highway speeds which gets worse as I speed up. I don't remember noticing it before and might just be a coincedence. I dont feel it in the handlebars but can feel it on the aquaboards as well as by reaching back and grabbing onto the passenger hand holds. So something in rear is suspect.

After seeing this thread and reading up about hub bearings, it seems like that's the issue. I did the shaking of wheel top and bottom as well as side to side but don't get any movement. I then spun the left wheel and it seems smooth. But spinning the right wheel, it sounds a bit different and has an ever slight gritty like rubbing sand sound. I figure that I need to replace that.

So because of this thread, I know that the hubs are from a 97 Cavalier front. Excellent info and thanks. And watching some YouTube videos, it seems like it's not a very difficult jcoincidence based on this thread, the lack of proper lubrication has me concerned. I will probably order from Rockauto because of the price and don't need the parts immediately, just soon as I have an upcoming trip in about a week and a half. But I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to just go and replace both while I'm at it as a preventative measure. Thoughts?

My other concern though is that if these failed hubs are Moog parts as @klkordzi mentions, maybe going with Timkens might be the better choice?

Check out the advance auto parts number I posted, There About $85.00 the $ 40.00 ones Are Shit, Change booth of them at the same time. There easy to change pull the wheel, Then the caliper, the rotor comes off no bolts on that remove the big axle nut, Loosen the big axle nut before you remove the caliper & rotor, Then you have the 3 allen bolts, When you put it back together torgue the axle nut to 200 foot pounds. I dont no why The Right wheel bearing go in these things, If there not torqued right or if they a just the cheapest ass shit bearing money can buy ? While your there with the wheels off check to see if your rear shock is leaking on the shaft near the body of the shock ?