need ideas on h-d trike r/brake/to auto disc

eagle1 · May 20, 2011

i don,t think HMO will solve this problem, so lets explore this.

Gorilla · May 20, 2011

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<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>eagle1</strong>
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<div class="message">i don,t think HMO will solve this problem, so lets explore this.</div>

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</div>More info please. I do not understand what you want to explore more of.

eagle1 · May 20, 2011

convert the stock trike brakes to automotive disc brakes; ie larger brake pad surface area = better braking

tfdeputydawg · May 20, 2011

Some times to much of a good thing is to much of a good thing!

msocko3 · May 21, 2011

tfdeputydawg said:
Some times to much of a good thing is to much of a good thing!

:Agree: Mine stops pretty good even when pulling a trailer, the back brakes will also hold the trike and trailer on a hill with no problem.

zoood · May 21, 2011

eagle1 said:
convert the stock trike brakes to automotive disc brakes; ie larger brake pad surface area = better braking

Its your trike. If you feel it would be better. Than do it. Ive just the 11" disc on my DFT rear. It works fine for me. But then again what I built is lighter than a tri-glide.

zoood

1550vt · May 21, 2011

What is the trike....kit.....TG....? I have 10-inch rotors on mine with radial calipers. Depends on what you have, but it may not be all that straightforward to just throw a set of auto brakes on there. I have helped a few convert from drum to disc and you can convert from what you have now to something else, but it will require some modifications.

427dave · May 21, 2011

My rear brakes seem to be wearing out pretty fast. I have 4000 miles and my rear brakes are about 3/4 worn out. I do not use them very hard and stopping short. The rotors look to be groving abnormally also. Any one else seeing this or has anyone else changed their rotors and pads? A friend went to buy a set of pads and said Harley get $200 for them.

eagle1 · May 22, 2011

the triglide 09 to 2011 are p/n 83911-09 (2 3/4"X 1") , the with 9 1/8" rotors. local machine shops arent set-up to turm motorcycle rotors as they are steel. i just think there's a way we can retrofit the trike with existing automotivt rotors and calipers that would give us a lot better brakeing. i feel you would have to go to a larger dia. rotor to<br />
get better braking performance machine makes a stage 1 kit which has larger master cylinders and brake lines for $1000.00. BUT i feel you would have to go to a larger dia. rotor to get better braking .so i will continue to explore this problem. thanks for all input. lb

1550vt · May 22, 2011

Looks like you're on a 2009? At the outset....they were pretty much junk and as you read through the various threads and post you will see where people have "generally" solved the problem (or improved it) with aftermarket pads. There are also some aftermarket brake kits out there also (expensive like you said). You can get new calipers and pads to fit the stock TG brake caliper brackets. I don't recall if they have 3.5 or 3.75 mounting hole spacing, but better calipers and pads can be had. BUT....I suppose you have the warranty issue to deal with, so as long as they can be replaced under warranty, that is what you will likely have to do until you give up, or ignore the value of the warranty.<br />
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You can't just go get other rotors, etc. off-the-shelf at some parts house. The TG has a "special" axle flange pattern, so you have to get pads to fit the caliper on there now, or change to an aftermarket caliper to fit the bracket. Short of that, you can build your own. I have 20,000 miles on my pads now and they are around 1/2 worn, but I custom-built my own caliper brackets and used radial calipers and customized T-Bird 10-inch rotors......all which would likely void your warranty.<br />
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You can "build your own" for around $300-$400 if you are handy with tools.

You are bound by the size of the rear MC. Nobody seems to make a larger one that will mount in the stock location. I will be happy to provide you with the plans if you want to consider doing your own conversion. It's not that complicated.

427dave · May 22, 2011

1550vt said:
Looks like you're on a 2009? At the outset....they were pretty much junk and as you read through the various threads and post you will see where people have "generally" solved the problem (or improved it) with aftermarket pads. There are also some aftermarket brake kits out there also (expensive like you said). You can get new calipers and pads to fit the stock TG brake caliper brackets. I don't recall if they have 3.5 or 3.75 mounting hole spacing, but better calipers and pads can be had. BUT....I suppose you have the warranty issue to deal with, so as long as they can be replaced under warranty, that is what you will likely have to do until you give up, or ignore the value of the warranty.

You can't just go get other rotors, etc. off-the-shelf at some parts house. The TG has a "special" axle flange pattern, so you have to get pads to fit the caliper on there now, or change to an aftermarket caliper to fit the bracket. Short of that, you can build your own. I have 20,000 miles on my pads now and they are around 1/2 worn, but I custom-built my own caliper brackets and used radial calipers and customized T-Bird 10-inch rotors......all which would likely void your warranty.

You can "build your own" for around $300-$400 if you are handy with tools. You are bound by the size of the rear MC. Nobody seems to make a larger one that will mount in the stock location. I will be happy to provide you with the plans if you want to consider doing your own conversion. It's not that complicated.

Thanks for the info. My Triglide is a new 2011. I had someone tell me that Harley will not cover brake pads under warranty as it is a wear item. But to wear out this soon I think they should cover them.

1550vt · May 22, 2011

I had really thought they had improved the rears on the 11 models. I thought they went to a different caliper. I haven't looked around a lot, but have not seen as many issues concerning the brakes on the 11's....now the 09 and 10...is a whole 'nuther story to include a parking brake drag issue.

I'd find out what pad I needed and go with an aftermarket (better) brand. Before I would hand Harley some money for a new set ever 6-months...I'd yank a caliper off and find out what it was and find some better pads.

msocko3 · May 23, 2011

1550vt said:
I had really thought they had improved the rears on the 11 models. I thought they went to a different caliper. I haven't looked around a lot, but have not seen as many issues concerning the brakes on the 11's....now the 09 and 10...is a whole 'nuther story to include a parking brake drag issue.

I'd find out what pad I needed and go with an aftermarket (better) brand. Before I would hand Harley some money for a new set ever 6-months...I'd yank a caliper off and find out what it was and find some better pads.

They made some minor changes with the master cylinder in 2010 and then for 2011 they went to a harder rotor and more pad surface area. FWIW I had 10,000 miles on the rear brakes of my 2010 when I pulled the original pads and put the Lyndals on and I could have gone more on the original pads. My dad had 20,000 miles on the original pads on his 2009 when I put the Lyndal pads on, he could have gotten another 5,000 out of them. I think mileage is governed by the type of riding, how much the parking brake is adjusted or forgotten and ridden with it on, and how much a person uses the rear brakes vs the fronts. I think for some its a natural reaction to just stand on the rear brakes and use little to no front brake. Myself and my dad I know we use a majority of the front brakes because that is how we learned on 2 wheels which is what your supposed to do, 75% of the braking capacity is in the front.

1550vt · May 23, 2011

Old habits are hard to break Mike. Using the front brake most of the time is a perfectly normal reaction (I do it too). It is still true (I think) that most of the braking power is in the fronts....even on an automobile, or any other vehicle. Stopping power....yes, traction ...no, not on a trike.

I had to ride back from Canada once on a front brake only (long story) and it was a thrill-a-minute to say the least, especially in the rain. I don't use my rears a lot, but I want them to lock-up at any speed if they have too. There is a lot more contact patch on the pavement if you need it.

I also agree about the other user-habits. I try not to use the brakes at all and sort of ride like I don't have any. Of course...one does have to use the brakes, but I think we all understand what I mean.

Maryland Triker · May 23, 2011

my 2011 TG has a little over 4000 and brakes work great, of course I forgot to take the parking brake off a couple thousand miles back and it don't work no more:banghead: but the regular brakes work just fine. I did put an extended brake pedal on her and extended the floorboards out and forward an inch ThumbUp love that

1550vt · May 23, 2011

Maryland...may be the best thing you ever did was getting the parking brake "out of the picture" so-to-speak (LOL). I think that was part of the issue on the early TG's. Many of us do not have a parking brake anyway. Careful attention to parking, or a bungee around the brake lever works wonders.

I have some HUGE rubber-bands that I use and just wrap one around the front brake lever.

427dave · May 24, 2011

Maryland Triker said:
my 2011 TG has a little over 4000 and brakes work great, of course I forgot to take the parking brake off a couple thousand miles back and it don't work no more:banghead: but the regular brakes work just fine. I did put an extended brake pedal on her and extended the floorboards out and forward an inch ThumbUp love that

As the brake pads wear out the emergency brake will quit working unless you keep adjusting it to compensate for the wearing pads. It is a simple adjustment, with the handle in the up position there is a allen screw in the knob, loosen it and turn the knob clockwise, then check the emergency brake. The manual shows a test with a fish scale and a tie wrap.

But your pads are probably wearing out and that is why the emergency has quit. Course driving with it on didn't help the pads for wear

msocko3 · May 26, 2011

1550vt said:
Old habits are hard to break Mike. Using the front brake most of the time is a perfectly normal reaction (I do it too). It is still true (I think) that most of the braking power is in the fronts....even on an automobile, or any other vehicle. Stopping power....yes, traction ...no, not on a trike.

I had to ride back from Canada once on a front brake only (long story) and it was a thrill-a-minute to say the least, especially in the rain. I don't use my rears a lot, but I want them to lock-up at any speed if they have too. There is a lot more contact patch on the pavement if you need it.

I also agree about the other user-habits. I try not to use the brakes at all and sort of ride like I don't have any. Of course...one does have to use the brakes, but I think we all understand what I mean.

I never thought about it like this, good point. I have noticed there is quite a bit of weight transfer from back to front upon heavy breaking, I can feel the forks compress on the trike just like they do on my 2 wheeler. I know my back brakes will lock up if I want them to, I tested that once. I was amazed at how loud the tires were when they hollered with the back brakes locked up, lots of folks turned their heads. I think the next time I decide to test something like that I'll do it on a back road instead of at an intersection on town.

1550vt · May 28, 2011

Dude....I have two equal black stripes as wide as my rear tires all over my long concrete drive. I like to "make sure" mine work when I leave home.

mcdonaldroadcapt · May 29, 2011

For those of you with a Trog with poor rear braking action, try installing a 2011 Triglide master cylinder and see the difference. You will gain another 50% in rear braking power with those old school drums. Master fits perfectly but costly with mounting bracket. However, the improvement was worth the cast.