Stallion Parts & Maintenance Reference

[Mattel]

I would like this thread to be a clearing house for the parts we need for Maintenance and replacement of items on our Stallions. For example;

1. Oil changes: I am about to change my oil, what oil are you using, how much exactly do you need, what is the brand and weight you are using vs. what TBMS recommends and if you are changing something why are you doing it

2: Breaks: I know they have better pads like ceramic, or dustless. What is the model number of what is on there now? What have you used to replace it? Did you have to change the rotors? Does it work better?

3: LED light replacements: Did anyone replace the tail lights with LEDs? If so, how are they working? Where did you get them from?

4:Air filter: I know it is a K&N, but which model is it?

I am about to change my oil, can anyone make a recommendation?

I was thinking of going with a full synthetic so I can go 10k miles without changing again. I am also trying to do it myself, so do I need to put the back on jack stands and keep it level when emptying the oil, or can I have the front lower?

 

[Mattel]

First oil Change

I changed my Oil this weekend and it went well. I have heard that it is tough to get off the oil filter for the first time, so I used a Cup style oil filter wrench. The tip that i learned related to using the filter wrench. With the cup style wrench if you do not get it to seat all the way it will just slip. I used a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Once I did that, it was a snap to get the oil filter off. Then you need a vice and a flat head screw driver to hammer the wrwnch off the old oil filter.

I used a 13mm socket to get the oil plug out.

My Stallion only took about 4 quarts of synthetic oil.

The most difficult thing was to get my Stallion up high enough to change the oil. Big Dog suggested using bricks under the rear tires.

I stacked several bricks 4 bricks high and used plywood.

I had to use a car jack to get the frame high enough to use a floor jack.

One other thing I noticed was the oil filter I took off my Stallion was longer than the stock Ford filter.

Over all it went well.

I think the next time will go smoother now I know how to do it.

 

[3-togo]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

Hello Mattel,
I believe most people are using Rhino ramps or similar type. Place one ramp on front wheel and drive up . Very quick and simple. This problem was addressed early on in the stallion section. I also found the bottom oriented filter wrench with fingers more effective than the slip on.Motorcraft synthetic blend is my oil of choice and I change oil and filter every 3 thousand miles. Theres a dealer in Arizona who insists 4.5 qts is the refill but 4 qts was perfect for me. Also,our first stallion contributor,even if they are yellow,brought to are attention the need to lube the drive shaft at two differt locations. Happy lubing

 

[Mattel]

Parts & Maintenance Reference

3togo,

Boy are you right on the ramps! I was in Daytona yesterday and they used a pair. I heard you can get them at Wallmart for about $30, they are light and you don't have to worry about them being too steep. I am going to pick up a pair when I get back to Charlotte for an early holiday gift

I will take a look at the Drive Shaft lube, but I am curious why you would change full synthetic oil every 3k as opposed to 5k or 10k?

I checked my oil level after riding about 600 miles and it is perfect. It looks like it took about 4 qts.

 

[3-togo]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

Hi Mattel,
The fomoco oil is a synthetic blend and the standard issue at ford dealers.I pay 11.95 for 5 qts which is why I change at 3000 miles .Ford recommends 5000 miles.This is a blend,not 100% synthetic.My trucks have all aged well with this oil.Not a recommendation,just what I use

 

[Mattel]

Locking Gas Cap info

I found the locking gas cap that fits the Stallion:

It is the Stant 11510

It also fits the 2008 Mustang

You can reuse the plastic connector that keeps it connected to your tank by just sliding it off and attaching the new gas cap to it the same way.

Save your old gas cap, you may need to replace the rubber gasket in a few years.

I found this at an Advanced Auto Parts store.

 

[Big Dog]

Air Leak

I have noticed that I'm losing air, both over night and while riding. Last night I parked at 28psi, both sides even. This morning was at 17psi, and a 3/4" differance left to right side. Anyone else had this problem?

 

[3-togo]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

Hello,

The first step is to make a soap solution out of dish soap or buy a commercial leak test bottle from a/c,refrig store. You will find that overnight(due to temp.alt.changes) your pressure will flucuate somewhat.

Start by leak testing the manifold/compressor/pressure switch/ep switch ect. These are located behind the rear passenger seat. To acess same refer to your manual on removal of seat. The fitting going into the manifold is the likely culprit.Most of connections are located behind seat. You will find one pneumatic line going to each air bag which requires removal of tire to leak check fitting and air bag. Have fun and may your air last for ever.

 

[Gorilla]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

Big Dog MJ's Stallion has done that from day one. We just pump it back up at the beginning of the day. Ted

 

[Fortsand]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

I believe TBMS has a new dump valve. They had to replace the dump valve on mine the day I picked it up at the factory. It was leaking down as fast as the pump could fill it.

 

[Papa Zook]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

I believe TBMS has a new dump valve. They had to replace the dump valve on mine the day I picked it up at the factory. It was leaking down as fast as the pump could fill it.

Joe's right, they do have a replacement for the dump valve. JD at Thoroughbred MS said that the current ones were giving some problems so they do have replacements and it should be a warranty repair. Thats the first place I'd check for a leak. That valve is on the right side of the air block which is located behind the rear seat pad.

To check it, remove the driver's backrest (per owners manual) then remove the seat by lifting up on the rear of the seat, tilting it forward and lifting it off. Then remove the rear passenger seat back pad by first removing the two screws at the bottom of the seat pad. The pad will drop straight down about 2 inches, then tilt the top forward and lift it up and out of the way. The air block is located at the center and top of the opening in clear view.

As T-Logo said, spray soapy water on the fittings to look for a leak.

It will most likely be the bad valve.

BTW Joe...haven't heard much from you lately.

How are you liking your New Stallion?

Please give us a ride report.

Any new accessories?

Likes / dislikes? Suggestions?

 

[Fortsand]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

I've only rode it about 200 miles so far. Lynda and I rode about 80 miles on Thanksgiving day. Both of us are hopeful that the exhaust noise can be reduced. Next on the list is to have an intercom adaptable to the radio. We enjoyed music on the intercom when we rode the Gold Wing.

I received the hyperlites and hyperbrites I ordered a few days ago. A headlight modulator and horn are in transit. Hope to have these items installed this week, so I won't be riding much.

I took my seven year old grandson and my daughter for a short ride(seperately) but it started raining so we had to cut it short.

They thought it was a blast.

That's all for this issue.

 

[BenO]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

I also had problems with massive loss of air. They ended up changing out the the air bag's.

Its been great since just minor loss and it is very minor.

 

[Fortsand]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

Mine has held rock steady since the dump valve change.

 

[Mattel]

Pictures for First oil Change

I changed my Oil this weekend and it went well. I have heard that it is tough to get off the oil filter for the first time, so I used a Cup style oil filter wrench. The tip that i learned related to using the filter wrench. With the cup style wrench if you do not get it to seat all the way it will just slip. I used a rubber mallet to tap it into place. Once I did that, it was a snap to get the oil filter off. Then you need a vice and a flat head screw driver to hammer the wrench off the old oil filter.

I used a 13mm socket to get the oil plug out.

My Stallion only took about 4 quarts of synthetic oil.

The most difficult thing was to get my Stallion up high enough to change the oil.

Big Dog suggested using bricks under the rear tires.

I stacked several bricks 4 bricks high and used plywood.

I had to use a car jack to get the frame high enough to use a floor jack.

One other thing I noticed was the oil filter I took off my Stallion was longer than the stock Ford filter.

Over all it went well.

I think the next time will go smoother now I know how to do it.

Here are the pictures:

1.

Shows the two types of filter wrenches.

The cup style that worked for me, and the other type I had for the picture, but it was too large to use, but it was the one 3-togo talked about having success with.

2.

This was a last minute extension to get the oil into the top of the engine without spilling it all over the place. I would suggest using a long neck funnel with an adjustable neck, but in my case - I made do with what I had in the garage. I used a regular quart oil bottle with a filler neck on it. I cut the bottom out and poured the oil from the large 5 quart bottle into it without spilling any oil.

3.

This is a picture of the oil I used. I am planning on changing it at about 10,000 miles because it is full synthetic, but I may drop back to 7,500 now that I have found it to be so easy.

4.

This picture shows the different length in the stock filter and the one that the owners manual call out for. What is up with that????

Does anyone know anything about this or - a better filter than the one the owners manual calls for?

5 This last picture is not the way you want to work on your bike, it is the hard way - but it works... I have been shown the light of using Ryno Ramps (that you can pick up at Wall-mart for about $30.00 a pair) and how fast you just back up onto them.

This was what I had in my backyard.

Enjoy your first oil change. Work Safe, and please recycle your oil as to not pollute our delicate water resources.

 

[Mattel]

Pictures for First oil Change

Lets try again to upload pictures....

 

[3-togo]

Re: Pictures for First oil Change

Hello,
Just a heads up for everyone ,about a condition that at least one other stallion owner has encountered with the coolant tank rubbing on the hood. While getting stallion ready to be winterized, I noticed that my tank is rubbing a slight depression in hood. Actually,plastic tank seems to be more durable than fiberglas. I will bend back bracket to move tank back towards dash.

 

[Mattel]

Test picture upload

this is a test

 

[CRBandit]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

Back to an old issue – leaking air suspension.

My air suspension has a leak. When I parked overnight my pressure would drop from high 30's down to 4 lbs. As I drove I could see the pressure drop from, say 38 lbs down to the low 20's. This would take about 20-30 minutes. I'd pump it back up and then watch it happen all over again. (Just a note: I had read about pumping up to 90-100 lbs to set the valve, etc. I have done that and that hasn't helped in the least.)

I talked with Nick @ TMS since my closest dealer is over 300 miles away and made arrangements to get this handled at my local Ford dealer, less than 1/2 mi from home. The service manager, service writer and tech were all very cooperative and eager to work on my Stallion. They found a leak at the manifold/compressor with the fittings and ordered new parts. When the parts arrived they found that they had been sent an old damaged unit and had to have the replacement parts resent.

When they finally got new parts I brought my Stallion in and they exchanged the parts.

They said there was still a slight leak but that it should be a lot better than it used to be.

It still drops to 4 lbs overnight but while riding I can now go a lot longer before I have to pump the pressure back up but it does still drop slowly as I ride.

The tech said he was afraid to over-tighten the fittings since they are aluminum and is afraid if he does, they'll strip out.

My main question to those of you that have replaced these parts or had other suspension repairs done – do your systems still leak or have they been TOTALLY fixed?

Did it take more than one exchange of parts/attempts to get things fixed right?

 

[BenO]

Re: Parts & Maintenance Reference

I had the very same problem as you have.

They totaly replaced my air bag and its been fine since.