Changing Triglide Transmission Sprocket

msocko3

New member
Sep 20, 2009
4,598
293
NE Ohio
This past winter I changed the transmission sprocket on both my dads 2009 and my 2010 Triglide from the anemic 32 tooth to a 30 tooth HD part number 83595-11. I did a write up and pictures on another forum at the time while the work was in progress. I figure some folks over here at TT may find this information useful so I'm recreating the writeup over here also. Picture of the primary chain before I removed the tensioner.
sprocket1.jpg

Zip tied the tensioner in place per the manual, I'm of the school the more zip ties the better. The tensioner wear pad is in pretty good shape. Only thing I don't like is the chain was tighter than it should have been, only had 1/2" of deflection.
sprocket2.jpg

This is a picture of the compensator sprocket and ramps. I was interested to see how the sprocket would look. There had been guys seeing some gulling where the ramps run on the sprocket, mine is showing some of this gulling.


sprocket3.jpg

Shot of the primary with everything removed.
sprocket4.jpg

I like to bag oily parts so they don't get contaminated with dirt which would require disassembly and cleaning. This is the clutch basket which I will break down and inspect the frictions and steels at a later time. I'll also be installing a Screamin Eagle spring to give a little more clamping pressure.
sprocket5.jpg

A shot of the poor trike with a lot of parts missing.
sprocket6.jpg

Some of the pieces and parts, you couldn't tell by the look of the gas tank I love blue painters tape.
sprocket7.jpg

I started by loosening the belt, taking it off the sprocket and removing the lock plate. This is a shot of the plate being taken off and the transmission sprocket locking tool installed.
tranlockplate.JPG
 
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As some have learned my dad and I are both anal about things sometimes. I couldn't bring myself to use a pipe wrench on the sprocket nut wrench so I figured I'd use a 40" 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 3/4 to 1/2 impact reducer.

Here is my smiling face getting ready to give it a go.
bbar.JPG

A closer picture of everything lined up and ready to loosen the sprocket nut.
bbarontrans.JPG

The best laid plans of mice & men, the poor little impact adapter wasn't up to the task I snapped it like a cheap toy
broketool.jpg

So I tossed being anal out the window and broke out the pipe wrench and a 3' cheater and got that nut off.
nutoff.JPG

Upon installation of the 30 tooth sprocket I discovered the locking tool would not fit.

I ended up grinding some material off to make it fit. My method was a tad medieval vs how Icebite1 ground his to fit.

Pic of my dad doing the dirty deed.
sprockstopmod.JPG

The finished tool. One note.... While digging around the internet this morning I also found JP Cycle sells the sprocket locking tool for $62 which is cheaper than Georges Garage, Jims and Screamin Eagle. Had I known we would had to grind on it I would have bought the cheaper one from JP Cycle.
finishedtool.JPG

The modified tool worked like a charm, got the nut tightened to spec and the lock plate installed. To get the required 35 - 45 degrees required I used a 18" pipe wrench with a 2' cheater bar on it. The black lines in the picture are the starting point which was also marked on the socket and a mark for 35 & 45 degrees.
sprocketdone.JPG
 
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I took some pictures of the socket and pilot that is used to loosen the transmission sprocket nut.

This is a picture of the tool and pilot, the pilot is used to keep the socket square and to protect the threads on the transmission shaft.
locktool1.JPG

The threads the pilot screws onto are the ones the nut that holds the clutch hub screws on to.
locktool2.JPG

Here is a picture of the pilot installed and the socket held beside it. Note the pilot fits pretty snuggly in the socket, as you can see the nut which holds the transmission sprocket on isn't very thick. Given the amount of torque required to remove this nut due to the tightening torque and the high strength thread locker I highly recommend purchasing the tool.
locktool3.JPG

I squared up the rear axle housing and adjusted the belt tension.

I used dial calipers to measure each side of the axle housing at the pinch blocks to get it with in spec. If I remember right spec is .062, I'm with in .008 so I guess I'm pretty close
rearmeasure.JPG

To set the belt tension I used a tape measure hung off the top of the swing arm and a Harley belt tension tool to get it with in the 3/8 - 7/16.
belttension.JPG

I use a neat little Craftsman thread chase set to chase all my threads before assembly.
tapset.JPG

Before installing the inner primary I replaced the seal that runs on the transmission shaft, per the manual I put tape over the transmission shaft so the seal would not be damaged while installing the inner primary.
tapeshaft.JPG

I also replaced the 5 bolts for the inner primary that have o-rings on them. I know some folks put a dab of silicone on and reuse the old ones, I decided to follow the manual and replace them, they also come with thread lock patch already applied.
primbolts.jpg

It's finally finished.

Got the chain tensioner installed,
primarydone.jpg

All buttoned up and fresh Formula+ added.

primarydone1.jpg
 
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what is the difference in performance?

Excellent work and pics. all tri-glide owners give you & your team a very big thank-youfor all the extra hard work & attention to detail.
RIDE ON:GL1800:
 
what is the difference in performance?

Excellent work and pics. all tri-glide owners give you & your team a very big thank-youfor all the extra hard work & attention to detail.
RIDE ON:GL1800:

I've found the change makes it a lot easier to take off from a start without slipping the clutch quite so much, it also makes 6th gear a much more usable gear. I think Harley did the 09 - 10 MY's a big disservice when they stuck the 32 tooth sprocket on them. Being a large manufacturer they surly test ride the snot out of the new products. I don't know how the folks test riding the prototype Triglides didn't comment on the lackluster performance with the 32 tooth sprocket, they either were blind to the fact or a bunch of yes men.
 
With the mods M3 and I did to my TG I am now satisfied with its performance. I am a power ( torque ) freak but I am going to leave it alone. A person can always do more. My bride and I do alot of touring and spend alot of time on the interstates. I have no problem geting up to interstate speeds when pulling on. With the mods that were done it is a HOOT to ride.
 
For what it's worth, I have the needed tool for the sprocked removal....

$ 80.00 shipped

I installed the 30T on my 2010, what a difference...
 
Just got an estimate from my local indy here. $1275 I think iI will wait

WHAT???

You don't want that neck snapping acceleration? Blow off all those old, obsolete 32 tooth stone trikes?? Don't want to make full use of 6th gear (I never understood that one, my 6th gear OVERDRIVE works just like it should)

I have an 09, rides great, I'm perfectly happy with it. Wife has an '11. Rides great, we are perfectly happy with it. We both miss our 2 wheelers, but old age, arthritis, and lots of aches and pains pushed us to Tri-Glides.
 
WHAT???

You don't want that neck snapping acceleration? Blow off all those old, obsolete 32 tooth stone trikes?? Don't want to make full use of 6th gear (I never understood that one, my 6th gear OVERDRIVE works just like it should)

I have an 09, rides great, I'm perfectly happy with it. Wife has an '11. Rides great, we are perfectly happy with it. We both miss our 2 wheelers, but old age, arthritis, and lots of aches and pains pushed us to Tri-Glides.

6th gear isn't overdrive, the 6 speed transmission is a direct drive transmission and 6th is 1.1. Maybe your style of riding is just plodding along at whatever pace your Trike will provide. I can state from experience its no fun trying to run with traffic going 75 mph and every time a fair sized hill comes along you have to down shift to keep from getting mowed over from the guy in back of you.

I don't know why you always go to the racing angle when it comes to modification to the performance of the Triglide, I don't race my Triglide. I'm not interested in racing it, just looking for it to be usable for my wife and I to travel with.
 
My bad, I misunderstood the message, he quoted me $475 is that better. I figure it will help me pulling away from stops, and pulling a trailer. I understand my mileage will suffer a little, but hell it isn't great now.
 

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