Tweety to get a supercharger

Almost completed the adapter plate from carbie manifold to supercharger inlet.

Blow off valve in position. had to get a collar lathed up in steel to get it braised onto the steel tube.

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I'm close to the instal now. My engineer is welding the pulleys together, fixing the clutch pulley solid and I've mounted the tensioner pulley in place. The SC will be mounted between the alternator and the intake on about 20 degree angle as to allow for the bend in the Datsun manifold to allow for the dellorto to be level. It might even use the same pivot point as the Alternator. I'm hoping the manifold form the sc to the intak will be as short as possible.

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All advice I have received tells me I dont need a fuel regulating valve witha draw through set up.

Dropped off my Dell'orto carbie today in Shepparton to a carbie joint. They are to rpelace the jets, and there are several, with ones suitable for the project.

Get the SC with its pulley fixed and a welded up crank pulley hoping tomorrow.

Sort brass fitting for the 3 vacuum points, PCV, auto kickdown and dizzy.

Got 5 days off next week. might be making up the last of the Sc mount and manifolds.

Interesting at the carbie cente the owner has a green Gemini with a Holden 3.8 V6 in it and 3...3...superchargers. two sC14's one on each bank ans an eaton in the V (centre). hope to get a pic soon.
 
Here is a Gemini I saw this week. Three superchargers. 1x eaton in the centre, and two Toyota SC14's one on each side. the SC14 is the big brother of the SC I am isntalling the SC12. In a lightweight car.
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Yesteday I got the sC and pulleys back from my engineer. Today I made a mount that sits between the alternator and the intake
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(ignor the bird crap welding.) here it is in place
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Tomorrow a big job, the manifold from the sc to the intake. It will only be 240mm long but it will be like a plumbing job.
 
Must admit, pretty proud of myself with this sculpture haha

It came up great with the use of Devron.

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And the inside was also done making it really smooth for the fuel/air mix

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This is with the blow off valve.

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While it dries I'm onto the air box to connect the air filter.
 
I ordered a new ribbed belt last Monday. Will pick up tomorrow. The Corolla belt that broke was old off a wreckers shelf.

But the tensioner also needed a washer so that friction didnt help

video tomorrow.

and yes, it sounded better than Elvis.


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Well I'm real happy now. Purchased a new Corolla 5 ribbed belt and fitted it. I thought the old belt broke due to it being used. But it was because the tensioner mount had a burr on it and it cut through it thereby shreading it. So with half a new belt hanging on I took this short video. As you'll see I needed to work the choke to get it start and it was real cold so looks like smoke out the exhausts. anyway I'm soon at the end of the project.

the sound at the beginning is heavy rain on the roof.

 
I do have a problem I have to work on.

Being hard mounted if the SC alignment is out then it doesnt give me any room to adjust it so I dont damage belts.

I can cut the manifold in two and use a silicone sleeve there this would mean I need a top sc mount to secure it as the manifold is currently holding it firm in position

Couple of days and it will all be done. Testosterone doesnt have patience!
 
So finally the manifold was modified. Got the engine up to operating temperature but still the engine wants to bog down with richness. I have a spare carbie so I’ll look at those main jets soon.
But first there is the test drive. I inched down the driveway careful not to flood it. Then stalled it. Restart ok will feather the throttle till I get some speed up. Carried out a u-turn at the Strathbogie CBD….and put the auto in first gear from drive. Feather the throttle till 2000 rpm then squeezed it more….woooooohhh!!!!!! wow!. Where’s that neckbrace!! Climbed a hill leaving bogie and slowed then it kicked down from 3rd to second and immediately for the very first time, the front wheel on tweety left the ground about 20mm. What amazed me was- it remained off the ground for about 5 metres. That’s what it felt like but likely 2 metres- dont matter it was a buzz. It has never been so responsive. I was going uphill but this is exactly what I was after. And that kick in the back is gradual and consistent till about 4000 rpm when it increases noticeably. And the noise? I don’t hardly hear it! Maybe the car guys hear it due to it being enclosed?

Gotta do the airbox now, clean up the garage, change the jets and get a tune. What a relief!.


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The belt is now running true. The silicone tube idea failed due to no having enough "meat" on both ends of where I cut it. So wleded it again while in place and hard mounted the unit again.

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This is an electricians wire box. will modifying it to make an airbox out of it. It has to enable a 75mm hose for the cone air filter. and a 38mm hose for the blow off valve.

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I will connect the digital boost guage to seek the amount of boost I have. Video will come.
 
Well today I nearly finished the airbox. The top cap on an angle has to be recut to make it look more presentable. But for $24, it was cheap for what I wanted it to do.

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The box has 75mm plumbing to the vacuum style air hose to the cone filter further towards the front to get all that cool air. Ther is also a join for the blow off valve.

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Replaced the 145 jets with 135, then 130 then 125. Not much change with the bogging down of the engine. So with the 125's in place took to it with the timing light. Bearing in mind the standard ea81 has its timing marks on the flywheel at the rear and I dont have a flywheel anymore being an adapter and auto trans from VW.

So the triple crank pulley originally on this engine has a mark on it, and was found from riding uphill slowly until the pinging ceased. A friend had his Brumby/brat here once and we compared markes and by chance I'd timed it to 8 degrees with that mark in the vertical position on the block halves...odd eh..

When I replaced that pulley with a standard single V belt pulley I copied that mark over. Then my engineer fixed a 5 ribbed pulley to that. Well I checked the timing and it was about 20 degrees. Dont know why. But I loosened off the dizzy and the timing light decided to go bush!!.

With the info I had though I could retard the timing quite a lot. I kept doing this until it revved cleanly. Until I get another timing light I dont know what degrees it is at idle or high revs for that matter. But I'm fairly happy I got the hesitation out. But was I now running lean?. Seemed I was because at medium revs it seemed to run out of fuel as it slowly died down.

I replaced the 125's with 145's. Smelt quite rich. Replaced them for 135's and it was the happiest its been. That'll do till a tune.

Wanted a test ride but its dark.....lol.
 
Anyone contemplating adding a SC to their engine might want to consider the following
there are a number of things I wouldnt do again.

1/ By far the mistake that cost me many hours was the one peice manifold joining the sc to the intake. Had my time again this would ahve been in two halves and made for a 1 inch section of silicone tube. This would have made mounting easier.

2/ Be aware that the entry and exit mounting bolts are 6mm and often can have worn threads. This might temp you to insert longer bolts for strength BUT....the holes go through to the spinning lobes meaning damaging them is easily done. I was lucky to realise this as I bolted a longer one up. In the end I retapped a few of them for larger stubbier bolts that did the trick.

3/ As a novice I didnt realise until later that the first thing to do is line up the pulleys both vertically and horizontally then secure the mount rather than thinking small amoutns of adjustment is easy.

4/ When purchasing a sC 12 or 14 try and get one with the manifolds. they could come in handy.

5/ I think the Dellorto 40 DHLA was a good chice. seemed to have no issues with it and can handle the 3-5 psi of my elecric fuel pump with no return to tank feed needed.

6/ I was happy that I got my engineer to fix the clutch pulley with three precision bolts and the crank pulley also. wasnt that costly and takes the guessing out. In hindsight the tensioner mount could have been on a better adjusting angle. Works fine but if its not 90 degrees from the belt adjustment suffers. Is located just above the water pump pulley.

7/ I was happy with the following decisions: location of the supercharger, utilising the cast iron alternator mount, Ford belt tensioner is a gem to use, carbie choice, supercharger size (didnt need the SC14), draw through rather than blow through, the digital boost gauge (cheap on ebay and easy to read), ribbed belt rather than V-belt which was my first choice, utilising a 5pr-0965 belt a common size.
 

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