2010 Harley CVO Softail Convertible with Qtec-Engineering Kits (front and rear)
- Thread starter terebit
- Start date
wlivin2
400+ Posts
Looks great so far can't wait to see and hear more
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #23
Always said I'd go reverse before a standard trike
Liking the way it looks as a reverse trike. IMO, the main problem with a reverse trike is the lack of storage space, but saddlebags and tour pack would be an option. 10-inch ape-hanger Handlebars and extended cables/lines installed and gas tank in place today.
This is the finished notch I had to grind out in the handlebar clamp to allow internal wiring an exit [ref post #14].
Liking the way it looks as a reverse trike. IMO, the main problem with a reverse trike is the lack of storage space, but saddlebags and tour pack would be an option. 10-inch ape-hanger Handlebars and extended cables/lines installed and gas tank in place today.
This is the finished notch I had to grind out in the handlebar clamp to allow internal wiring an exit [ref post #14].
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #24
Eyeballing it
Headlights and front turn signals added. Still need to do some wire connections, but my back just couldn't take it anymore today.
Good chance I will change the style of stem I'm using for the front turn signals to a ball and socket (pivot) mount. This post style stem will be too hard to keep from rotating. For potential builders, the threads in the frame here are 3/8-16.
Headlights and front turn signals added. Still need to do some wire connections, but my back just couldn't take it anymore today.
Good chance I will change the style of stem I'm using for the front turn signals to a ball and socket (pivot) mount. This post style stem will be too hard to keep from rotating. For potential builders, the threads in the frame here are 3/8-16.
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #25
Stop it
Ran into a minor snag while installing the master cylinder. The kit includes an integrated (front and rear) brake system with a single master cylinder and separate fluid reservoir all operated by the foot brake pedal. The master cylinder comes from a VW Golf and is mated with an adapter on the footboard bracket. The problem I had was that the holes didn't align well enough to get the bolts through.
Had to drill out the holes and make them a little oblong. Also bought some different bolts with a slightly smaller head.
Ran into a minor snag while installing the master cylinder. The kit includes an integrated (front and rear) brake system with a single master cylinder and separate fluid reservoir all operated by the foot brake pedal. The master cylinder comes from a VW Golf and is mated with an adapter on the footboard bracket. The problem I had was that the holes didn't align well enough to get the bolts through.
Had to drill out the holes and make them a little oblong. Also bought some different bolts with a slightly smaller head.
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #28
Show us your @ss
Getting the rearend ready.
Builders tip: Leave yourself an opening to get the differential through. I found that the gap between the A-arms and through the side of the frame works; just tie the axle stub back out of the way and hold off on installing the shock on that side.
Getting the rearend ready.
Builders tip: Leave yourself an opening to get the differential through. I found that the gap between the A-arms and through the side of the frame works; just tie the axle stub back out of the way and hold off on installing the shock on that side.
Jack Klarich
18000+ Posts
Are those adjuster bolts I see on the pulley? If so that is a great set up
- Moderator
- #31
Coming along nicely, it will certainly be different when completed. :clapping:
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #33
Deconstruction
Major operation today; removed the rear end and installed a different drive belt for the rear kit. If you've never done a drive belt on a Harley, know this; everything has to come off the bike; the rear wheel, the oil tank, the primary drive and inner case.
OK, the swing arm didn't need to come off to change the belt; but it does come off for the rear kit.
Major operation today; removed the rear end and installed a different drive belt for the rear kit. If you've never done a drive belt on a Harley, know this; everything has to come off the bike; the rear wheel, the oil tank, the primary drive and inner case.
OK, the swing arm didn't need to come off to change the belt; but it does come off for the rear kit.
wlivin2
400+ Posts
Love all the pics and great info
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #35
The big build up
For the last couple days, I've been putting things back together for the next milestone; four wheels on the ground. Not there yet. New drive belt is installed, primary drive components in place, oil tank back in the bike, and rear frame attached. Would be easier if the Q-tec manual actually explained how things are supposed to go together. Example: this cross brace is upside down. Didn't discover that until I positioned the rear frame and found that the holes didn't align.
Clutch was rebuilt with a Rekluse kit. Had some issues with the installation manual here too because the page with the disk setup (stack) was missing. YouTube didn't help. Finally found a complete Installation Guide at the Rekluse web site.
I'm doing this auto clutch with a hydraulic throw-out and a Champion mechanical reverse; I hope it all works together!!
For the last couple days, I've been putting things back together for the next milestone; four wheels on the ground. Not there yet. New drive belt is installed, primary drive components in place, oil tank back in the bike, and rear frame attached. Would be easier if the Q-tec manual actually explained how things are supposed to go together. Example: this cross brace is upside down. Didn't discover that until I positioned the rear frame and found that the holes didn't align.
Clutch was rebuilt with a Rekluse kit. Had some issues with the installation manual here too because the page with the disk setup (stack) was missing. YouTube didn't help. Finally found a complete Installation Guide at the Rekluse web site.
I'm doing this auto clutch with a hydraulic throw-out and a Champion mechanical reverse; I hope it all works together!!
terebit
60+ Posts
- Thread starter
- #39
Troubles in Paradise
Main reason I haven't posted lately is because nothing's changed that much visually. I'm expecting the painted cowlings to be done next week, provided there are no unforeseen delays. I've also been struggling with a couple problems. First, the snap ring holding the adjuster assembly in the clutch popped out while I was bleeding the hydraulic actuator. The adjuster assembly replaces the OE throw-out bearing in the pressure plate. Then when I put it all back together, somehow I got part of the adjuster backwards and I actually broke the pressure plate trying to force it together. After getting a new pressure plate, it took several days of putting it together and taking it apart before I figured out what I'd done wrong.
Next, I've been struggling with some electrical problems. Fuses blowing and turn signals not working. I thought it was my wiring job, but traced the problem in the rear wiring to the harness supplied with the kit. Whoever built the harness soldered wires together, but didn't use any shrink wrap to keep the connections apart. That won't work! A little insulation added between the black-ground and the blue-power wires. Rear has continuity now to running lights, brake lights, and turn signals; but It's still blowing the Ignition fuse as soon as I turn on the switch. tearing into the front harness now. Picture is the rear:
Third problem. I started installing the Cobra true duals (exhaust) and realized that I ordered the wrong part number. Came with 12mm O2 sensor bungs. My bike uses 18mm O2 sensors. Had to order replacement head pipes.
Other than that, things are great...
Main reason I haven't posted lately is because nothing's changed that much visually. I'm expecting the painted cowlings to be done next week, provided there are no unforeseen delays. I've also been struggling with a couple problems. First, the snap ring holding the adjuster assembly in the clutch popped out while I was bleeding the hydraulic actuator. The adjuster assembly replaces the OE throw-out bearing in the pressure plate. Then when I put it all back together, somehow I got part of the adjuster backwards and I actually broke the pressure plate trying to force it together. After getting a new pressure plate, it took several days of putting it together and taking it apart before I figured out what I'd done wrong.
Next, I've been struggling with some electrical problems. Fuses blowing and turn signals not working. I thought it was my wiring job, but traced the problem in the rear wiring to the harness supplied with the kit. Whoever built the harness soldered wires together, but didn't use any shrink wrap to keep the connections apart. That won't work! A little insulation added between the black-ground and the blue-power wires. Rear has continuity now to running lights, brake lights, and turn signals; but It's still blowing the Ignition fuse as soon as I turn on the switch. tearing into the front harness now. Picture is the rear:
Third problem. I started installing the Cobra true duals (exhaust) and realized that I ordered the wrong part number. Came with 12mm O2 sensor bungs. My bike uses 18mm O2 sensors. Had to order replacement head pipes.
Other than that, things are great...
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