Downtube bearing

[tomg]

Everything is out and ready for the new bearings to arrive. I had to remove the center race on the left side to allow me to apply heat all around the outer race and let the candle wax help. As I have the new newer forks, I used a socket that fit inside the backside of the tube (13/16) which caught enough of the outer race to be driven out.
Now the interesting part is that none of the automotive parts stores can cross reference the 5201RS bearings. Miller Bearing has 5 options that starts at $50 for the China bearing up to $136 , these are for each as I didn't have an account with them. I went to Locateballbearings.com (800-409-3632) and also had several options and they recommended bearings that are under $40 delivered for both. They said it was a common bearing and were surprised at the prices quoted from Miller Bearing.
Hopefully I be back up and running within a week.
Tomg

 

[Ed Hobgood]

It is crazy how the bearing company's can put such a high price on their bearings. Yes I do know there are different bearings and the way they are made but when you read the details and they read the same it just makes you think why pay so much. Just saying...:Shrug:

 

[pcombe]

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the bearing on the bottom of the downtube? I'm thinking I've seen this before but I can't find it anywhere. I was out for a ride last week and started to notice when breaking the trike pulled to the left. When I got it back to the shop I found the bearing on the downtube was completely worn out. I'm trying to get the old race out but it is going to need to be cut out:AGGHH:. Yes I will replace both when I get a good part number.



Thanks for any help.



Ed

The quickest way to remove the old race is to use a spot weld on the race its self.

Take steps to protect surfaces you don't want to strike an arc on with electrical tape, Put your ground as close as possible to where you are working ( to avoid arcing through any other bearings etc. ) put a spot weld on the race, let it cool and it will almost fall out. (due to warping ) Plus the spot weld gives you a place to put a punch.

It doesn't matter what size race it is, its only a question of how much weld you use.
I used this method on heavy equip repairs for years.

 

[tomg]

Actually my last post should have read that the auto parts store could "not" match up the part number as it is listed as a industrial bearing and not an automotive bearing. So I was told by the auto parts store and the bearing locator I used.

The spot weld probably works great if you had a welder ! Lol

Tomg

 

[tomg]

The old bearings are out and the new ones are in. I didn't know those bearings at the end of the forks made that much difference. The front end feels tighter. As the end of the forks are slightly tapered, I had to drive out the old and drive in the new bearings. I also had to put a beveled edge on the bolts that go thru the swing arm/fork in order to get the bolt thru the spacers in the swing arm. All seems to be good now. Wish I had changed those bearings 20k ago.

Tomg

 

[Ed Hobgood]

Glad to hear things worked out for you. I know they can be a real pain to change.