HD Ignition Switch Lock

[Doug D.]

Anybody know how to remove the ignition switch lock on an '86 Electra Glide Classic? I need to replace mine and I'm having trouble finding any information on one that old. Mine's on the fairing, not the tank.

Peace and ride safe! orag:

 

[peteg59]

Working from faded memory, its secured under the speedo/tach cluster.

Once the speedo cluster has been disconnected, the handlebars and handlebar risers need to come off/get moved out of the way. You'll now have easy access to the ign./lock mechanism. There is a spring loaded pin outside the lock mech. that when pulled on, releases the lock from the housing.

You can "feel" around for the spring pin with the handlebars still in place and you might be able to access the release pin without removing the h'bars if you're lucky, but on mine I needed the room without them in the way...

As a footnote Doug, I thought I needed to replace the ignition switch/lock, as there was too much slop in the switch & it wouldn't turn back on after a ride. Come to find out the internal lock ring loosened up causing the switch to drop in the housing &"bind". I took the ring off the cylinder put a dab of red Loctite on it & put it back together a few years ago & its still holding to this day.

Good luck on yours...

 

[Jack Klarich]

Pete is right on the money

The hardest part is removing the dash and gauges IMO

I disconnect the battery always I hate surprises

Keep the switch in the lock position during removal and install should make it easier

 

[Doug D.]

As a footnote Doug, I thought I needed to replace the ignition switch/lock, as there was too much slop in the switch & it wouldn't turn back on after a ride. Come to find out the internal lock ring loosened up causing the switch to drop in the housing &"bind". I took the ring off the cylinder put a dab of red Loctite on it & put it back together a few years ago & its still holding to this day.

Good luck on yours...

I wish that was the case here Pete, but I couldn't get that lucky. Long story short, the owners previous to the guy I bought it from lost the keys and attempted to drill the lock out. The switch works fine, but I can't lock the bike. Makes me a little nervous when I have to leave it unattended.

Looks like a pretty big job, regardless. But what the hell, no better way to get familiar with a bike than by having it pieces on the garage floor!

Thanks guys, much appreciated!

PEACE and ride safe! orag:

 

[peteg59]

Wow, too bad someone didn't take a few precious minutes to research how the lock mech comes apart before going "Caveman" on it! (No disrespect to any living Cavemen out there)

The removal of what they likely "drilled out" can still be removed in the process above. The lock tumbler is in the chrome oval shaped "cap" that is connected to the actual switch by a rod. Hopefully in your case Doug, they didn't go too deep & damage too much in the process. If you can, post a pic of what you're working with. Its not really too tough of a job to fix with a little patience & basic hand tools, and as long as new/replacement parts are still avail...

Don't know if HD still sells the lock mech. or any associated hardware though. You might have to go used?

 

[Doug D.]

Ok guys, here's what I discovered.

I figured my first step was to try and get a look at the switch in order to figure out what I was dealing with. I started by removing the weather guard for the stereo. Six small screws later and this turned out to be the weather guard and the stereo face plate. This might be a plus because the stereo doesn't work, so now I'm thinking I may just need a face plate instead of the whole unit.





So under the face plate is a plate that covers the top of the handlebars. Removing this plate gave me access to the back of the switch and the catch that holds the lock knob in place.



If you look closely, you can see the very tip of the catch in the center of the switch. Pull the catch forward, pull up on the knob at the same time and out it comes. Push the new knob into place making sure to align it in same position the old one came out in. Badda-boom badda-bing, done, right? I wish...

The fork lock doesn't work, so I need to study this mechanism a little more. Also, the knob doesn't lock in the off or fork lock positions, but it does lock in the accessary position. This leads me to believe there's something missing or out of alignment, most likely the latter. So a couple more small hurdles to go, but at least I have a set of keys for the bike. The exercise also let me identify the switch, which will help with electrical issues when I get time to go after those.

Thanks again guys for all the help!

PEACE and ride safe! orag:

 

[Jack Klarich]

Patience Doug, you will get it

 

[Doug D.]

Thanks, Jack!

I have eight months before my vacation ride comes up, so I have plenty of time to figure it out.

 

[peteg59]

Glad you were able to get it fixed, sort of. Were you able to buy a new key tumbler assy.?

 

[Doug D.]

I found a NOS knob with keys in the original box on Ebay. Cost me $80 shipped, but given that it's pretty hard to find stuff for something that old, I can live with the price.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Doug, with the lock in locked position, does wiggling the handle bars help lock the forks?

Just wondering if the mechanism is a bit out of sync?

 

[Doug D.]

Hey Jack!

I didn't try wiggling the bars, but I did swing the bars from one side to the next with no luck. Educate me a bit, are the bars supposed to lock in the full left position, full right or both? Never owned a bike with this feature before, and I never really paid attention to anybody else's before.

 

[Jack Klarich]

Hey Jack!

I didn't try wiggling the bars, but I did swing the bars from one side to the next with no luck. Educate me a bit, are the bars supposed to lock in the full left position, full right or both? Never owned a bike with this feature before, and I never really paid attention to anybody else's before.

Full left for lock

I dunno about right

My baggers never locked that way

I do know if the mechanism is not timed right the lock will not work

I have started the switch full left in lock mode the tumbler dropped right in

I had to shake the bars 1 time to line it up, that was 20 years ago

My barrel key came out half way between lock and unlock. Harley said they never saw that before LOL it figures

 

[Redharley]

When you have switch knob out, you can make a tool out of copper pipe flatten it, stick down hole and work switch, sounds like someone didn't align it before reinstalling lock. Must be installed in correct spot for it to work correctly. Goggle it lots of info on net or you tube.

 

[Jack Klarich]

When you have switch knob out, you can make a tool out of copper pipe flatten it, stick down hole and work switch, sounds like someone didn't align it before reinstalling lock. Must be installed in correct spot for it to work correctly. Goggle it lots of info on net or you tube.

Good answer

You can also use a coat hangar

bend the end like a J Use a needle nose pliers

It is not as strong as a flattened piece of pipe but it will work

 

[pcombe]

I looked all over and could not find a replacement ignition switch for my 1989 tour glide.

Nothing new and used is even chancy?

I like to have spare parts on hand.

 

[Doug D.]

I looked all over and could not find a replacement ignition switch for my 1989 tour glide.

Nothing new and used is even chancy?

I like to have spare parts on hand.

Found mine on Ebay. There's a lot more out there for the later bikes. You might have to go back a couple times, but I've been pretty lucky there.

 

[pcombe]

man i sure didn't have any luck for my 89 tour glide and the people making an aftermarket quit making them, been on the lookout for one but haven't followed it closely for a spell.

 

[peteg59]

I looked all over and could not find a replacement ignition switch for my 1989 tour glide.

Nothing new and used is even chancy?

I like to have spare parts on hand.

What exactly are you looking for Paul?

The key/lock tumbler assy., or the lower "receiver" mechanism? Or both?

I don't currently have either but with your info, I might be able to locate something?

 

[pcombe]

Ok guys, here's what I discovered.

I figured my first step was to try and get a look at the switch in order to figure out what I was dealing with. I started by removing the weather guard for the stereo. Six small screws later and this turned out to be the weather guard and the stereo face plate. This might be a plus because the stereo doesn't work, so now I'm thinking I may just need a face plate instead of the whole unit.

View attachment 53257

View attachment 53258

So under the face plate is a plate that covers the top of the handlebars. Removing this plate gave me access to the back of the switch and the catch that holds the lock knob in place.

View attachment 53259

If you look closely, you can see the very tip of the catch in the center of the switch. Pull the catch forward, pull up on the knob at the same time and out it comes. Push the new knob into place making sure to align it in same position the old one came out in. Badda-boom badda-bing, done, right? I wish...

The fork lock doesn't work, so I need to study this mechanism a little more. Also, the knob doesn't lock in the off or fork lock positions, but it does lock in the accessary position. This leads me to believe there's something missing or out of alignment, most likely the latter. So a couple more small hurdles to go, but at least I have a set of keys for the bike. The exercise also let me identify the switch, which will help with electrical issues when I get time to go after those.

Thanks again guys for all the help!

PEACE and ride safe! orag:

If you have a raked triple tree it may not be drilled to accept the lock rod on the ignition switch, Mine wasn't.

You could drill your own hole in the tree.

There are locks made that fit in the holes in your front brake calipers with a reminder cable that slips over the hand grip on the handle bars so we dont screw up?

Just a suggestion.