Need More Power for 09 Tri Glide

[eagle1]

Join Date: May 2011
Location: peru,in,usa
Posts: 188

'09 t/g installing p/m stage 1 rear brakes
the rear master cyl was easily removed. i just took off the brake pedal. got the brake lines run. now waiting for the new r/disc to come in on sat.
has anybody removed the rear axles? the p/m kit has new disc mounting ring, and the axle has to be removed to install it. as per manual the axle either come off easy or use a slide hammer.in my seeing things if you mark the axle relative to the housing then remove the axle the splines should line up when re-installing the axle. any other opinions appreciated.thanks no slideing hammer needed to remove axle. red thread locker on bolts. didn't have any trouble removeing them toqque 41-45* , but did have to use map gas to heat up 1 bolt. there is red threadlocker on the ft. disc brake bolts, so heat them up before removeing then. also buy (8) new 3/8x1 1/4, 24 thread bolts and grade 8 nuts ,
and you can get a 9/16" open-end wrench to tighten them up. the "T" bolts fit snug against the axle. and same only 1" for disc bolts. the axle are thru bolts (no threads in axle) OEM uses T bolts, so you can get a 14 MM socket on the nuts. grade 8 nuts work better when installing.. dealer has no nuts or bolts in stock, so preplan for this.also before you run the brake lines wrap the ends in k-mart bags & use a bread tie- to secure it. this will prevent any dirt fron getting into the lines. the i use 1/4x28 speedbleeders ( sb1428-ss 1/4x28)for the front and 3/8x24
sb3824-ss for the rears. Ss is stainless. had 1 front. bleeder that wouldn't go in, so i wire brushed the threads, then ok. tomorrow to install calipers, and bleed. i use DOT super blue 15.00 per ltr. and the next time amber colored brake fluid. available on line.when you route the brake lines hook upborh rear calipers but leave the nuts looose for alinement purposes later , then 2 rear lines to the line leading to the brake sensor. start from the very back and route the line to just over swing arm & to the rear of rt side cover. ft line install it to the brake resivor first then route the line along the lower frame. pull the line toward you and install the brake switch and tighten the line to the rear line. p/m master cylinder takes a 5/32 allen wrench

 

[msocko3]

120r crate motor I have seen them as low as $4,600 and sell the 103 for $2,000 maybe more to the right person. If you can do the swap yourself that much better. To R&R a motor at the dealer is only around $600 bucks still a good way to go.
SR

Little more involved than just bolting in the 120R, you have to address the clutch and fuel. The stock clutch won't hold the torque developed by a 120" engine, expect to shell out $500 - $600 on the clutch. You can give up some HP and torque by sticking with the stock 50 mm induction module and just popping in a set of 4.9 - 5.3 gps injectors. You need to address exhaust the critter needs to breath, you can't stuff it up with the factory cat head pipe, a better head pipe will be in order.

I've been following some disturbing lifter wear with the 120R on another Forum. One guy with 15,000 miles and another with less than 1,000 miles found some odd wear marks on the roller of the lifters. Their hoping its just a crummy lifter design which can be addressed with a better lifter.

 

[Gorilla]

No the stock caliper mounting plates get removed and the new PM calipers install onto the new PM plate.

http://www.performancemachine.com/Assets/instructionSheets/pm_trike_brakekit.pdf

did the new plates come with the kit? I do not see them in their picture of the Stage I in their catalog, but I do see them on the installation instructions. trikermuthe Thanks for the instructions from PM and eagle1 thanks for your guidance, gives me a head start.