Ok here goes, My first trike build

I got the plates cut out and drilled today maybe tomorrow will get them welded on the rearend and the swingarm. also rewired the new fusebox in as well. will have pics tomorrow.
 
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As you can see in the pics above I got most of the plates welded on the swingarm and the rear. I am going to add a few more triangle shape pieces of steel to add more strength to everything. Got the rear end housing cut today will try to weld it back up tomorrow if I get chance. got more parts in today now I can get more done in the next few days.
 
I got alot done today, finished the drive shaft and welded it back together and had it balanced, I used 2 xs1100 ujoints and 2 drive shafts that was measured then cut to fit, welded them together and sleeved it and welded it for extra strenght. then I cut the axle down 5inches had it welded and balanced. local shop in my area did this for me. then I put everything together with new bearings in the swingarm, another dust boot from a member from here, then with the rearend bolted up I welded triangler pieces of metal to the rearend to help strenghten the plates I weled to the rear to bolt to the swingarm, I am now waiting on the shocks from a friend who said they would be here by friday.
 
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OK I need some help here, I am thinking of mounting the shocks where the turn signals use to go on the stock frame, 1. sliding a 1 inch tubing through the frame then a 3/4 tube through the other tube weld up then cut head off 1 inch bolt weld into the tubing to mont the shock. then add some form of bracing to make it better, I have pics please give your opinions to this. The shocks I am using came off a harley davison wide glide that I got for next to nothing. thanks again dennis.
:GL1800:
 
Ok figured it out, I have the shocks mounted. I took two pieces of dom tubing and ran them through the old turn signals holes 1st 1 was 1" tubing 2nd 1 was just alittle bigger than 3/4" dom tubing. 2nd tubing 1/2" longer on each side, then cut the heads off 2 bolts and welded them in the tubing for the shocks to mount to. then welded a piece of tubing in between the rear frame rails to help strengthen and take the stress from the shocks, then I welded 2 pieces of 1 inch angle iron to the frame then to the shock tubing, then another piece of tubing was welded to the front to the frame to add more strentgh. Pics to follow.
 
Ok after some thought I added a couple of more bars and a steel plate to the frame rails on the bike, It maybe over kill but I want it to be safe. also some pics.
 
I have a couple of questions, 1. I want to replace the front tire with something better but not sure what. tire size is 100/90/19. 2nd is how much rake do I need in the front end. The bike wheel base was 60.5 now it 67.5 and rear axle width is 50 inches without tires and rims, I am putting some nice 16 inch alum rims on it and either a 225/60/16 or a 235/60/16 tire on. I forgot to add that I lowered the height of the rear of the bike 2 1/2 inches to help with the rake.
 
Sorry to ask Im not sure if you said but what kind of axle are you using for this build and how did you get it to line up with the shaft so straight. Im thinkin of building my first trike with either a 81 yamaha xj750 shaft drive or i have a kawasaki vulcan shaft drive sittin around. Any input would be great. So far I am lovin the build. Would like to see a pic of the whole thing. Keep chopin and buildin!
 
its a 71 plymouth cricket, its a small rearend like the the ford mustang 8 inch rear. Ok on the drive shaft, the bikes original shaft was angled lower due to the height of the bike becuase of the shocks being hooked to the top of the frame and to the swingarm. I used 2 1/2 inch shorter shocks. so the drive shaft is almost level, the rear end is angled down 3 degress. to improve traction and oil to the pinion bearing. If there is anything else yopu need to know just ask. Dennis
 
Also forgot to mention if the drive shaft is on your left side of the bike you will have to flip the rearend becuase the bikes rotation is backwards of a normal car rear. if your drive shaft is on the right side of the bike check rotation just to be sure, the rear should stay like it was mounted in the vehicle. most cars have a clockwise rotation and my xs1100 has a counter clockwise rotation. Hope this helps out.
 
Just picked up a wilwood brake master cylinder and a inline residual valve and a stainless steel braided line for the rear brake setup for my trike. also figured out how to mount the emergency brake handle as well. I will take pics of before and after when I start on it tomorrow again.
 
this has been a good day, got all the welding done, new tabs put on, installed the wilwood master cylinder with steel braided line and a residual valve, now got to go and pick up some brake fluid. Next I welded a tab on the frame and drilled and tapped the alum brace. to bolt the emergincy brake handle on, then hooked the cable up as well. then I put my carbs back together after they soaked for 48 hours in original pinesol and some cleaning for the tough spots with carb cleaner. I am very suprized that the pinesol worked as good as it did. took some pics, sorry forgot to take pics of carbs before I soaked them they were pretty bad.
 

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