Trike tow bar

I build them and have used mine for over 6 years, has been all over the USA and not a problem with it, just have to make sure you use good rachet tie downs in rear, or do as I do, use a small chin to secure it in the upright position and away you go,
VW
 
i was a vw tech in the 70s , be careful using a tow bar with the rear wheels on the ground . they will sometimes jump in gear .if you are using a big truck or a motorhome to pull it , you might not notice & blow the motor sky high. i rebuilt several because of that. i never had it happen to me , only costumers & i pulled tons of bugs in for repair ?? just a heads up.
 
Could always make a bracket to lock the gearstick into a neutral position. I'm going to attach a socket onto the gearchange shaft so that I can insert a rod through and lock it, just for trailering.
 
Does anyone have a photo of this setup in use? I'm still trying to figure out what keeps it off the ground....
 
RSW:

No, the solid type carriers as shown in the eBay advertisement work beautifully for two-wheelers, but the geometries of our trikes require a carrier that is hinged horizontally to keep stress from being generated in the front wheel/steering neck areas when turning corners. Since this is not a new subject to this trike forum, perhaps someone can refer us to a better explanation, or maybe even a diagram or two to better explain the problems encountered.
 
RSW:

No, the solid type carriers as shown in the eBay advertisement work beautifully for two-wheelers, but the geometries of our trikes require a carrier that is hinged horizontally to keep stress from being generated in the front wheel/steering neck areas when turning corners. Since this is not a new subject to this trike forum, perhaps someone can refer us to a better explanation, or maybe even a diagram or two to better explain the problems encountered.

Sometimes my thinking is a little slow, but understand what you are talking about. The stress on the neck would probably worsen the higher you lifted the front end. If you kept your receiver height low, wouldn’t that make the stress level lower? I think you would have more neck stress if the trikes rear wheels were unleveled. Maybe a deep pothole or running off the edge of the road. I think more of a swivel action would be needed then horizontal hinging. Or is the same thing. My need for one would just be to tow one home if I have a breakdown. This just hit me when I had to limp mine home with a ignition problem the other night.
 
Try this - set the front forks of your trike perfectly straight (front wheel will be perfectly vertical). Now turn the forks full-lock to the left and you''ll see that the front wheel leans quite a bit into the turning direction. The solid tow bars make a trike turn like that but try to hold the wheel perfectly vertical, therein making significant strain on the neck. Yes there are some of them out there on the road, but it's just a matter of time until they have some major problems such as broken or bent-spoke wheels, cracked frame necks, etc.

This is not a new subject in the trike forum(s) and is something that should be avoided when selecting a tow bar. Look for one that has a horizontal hinge, or uses a regular ball receiver. Plus it would ideally attach to the trike frame at the back end to take all strain off the neck area.

6405-006-2.jpg
 
Try this - set the front forks of your trike perfectly straight (front wheel will be perfectly vertical). Now turn the forks full-lock to the left and you''ll see that the front wheel leans quite a bit into the turning direction. The solid tow bars make a trike turn like that but try to hold the wheel perfectly vertical, therein making significant strain on the neck. Yes there are some of them out there on the road, but it's just a matter of time until they have some major problems such as broken or bent-spoke wheels, cracked frame necks, etc.

This is not a new subject in the trike forum(s) and is something that should be avoided when selecting a tow bar. Look for one that has a horizontal hinge, or uses a regular ball receiver. Plus it would ideally attach to the trike frame at the back end to take all strain off the neck area.

6405-006-2.jpg

Understand!!ThumbUpThumbUp
 
I wonder if anyone has done a hauler like I'm thinking about and/or why it wouldn't work (at least for local use). My idea is to have a dual armed "fork" that attaches to the front tubes. This would allow the trike to be pulled with all three wheels on the ground. It would swing side to side and up/down via a simple universal joint mechanism.

What think ye?
 
Bob Witte: I understand your concept - sounds like a viable solution for towing. I only recommend that you include some mechanism in your design to protect against the front end of the trike raising up in the case of a panic stop. I learned that little lesson the hard way when my trike come up and nearly kissed my SUV rear window in a quick stop. I look at using a simple ball hitch coupler to work as a universal joint for my towbar designs - simple and cheap.
 
Bob Witte: I understand your concept - sounds like a viable solution for towing. I only recommend that you include some mechanism in your design to protect against the front end of the trike raising up in the case of a panic stop. I learned that little lesson the hard way when my trike come up and nearly kissed my SUV rear window in a quick stop. I look at using a simple ball hitch coupler to work as a universal joint for my towbar designs - simple and cheap.

Point well taken and just in time! I'm heading over to a shop today to see what it would take to build such a connection system. Wish me luck.
 

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